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LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Back of Cylinder Head LEAK

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Old 11-09-2017, 07:54 PM   #21
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If you chase the threads use a "bottoming tap" to finish, it will make sure the threads are clean clear to the end of the cut, typically you have to use a standard tap first then he bottoming tap to finish.. Good luck..
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Old 11-09-2017, 08:10 PM   #22
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It is a wall with threads in it, I don't think you need a bottoming tap for this. Obviously don't run the tap into the other side of the coolant passage.

Make sure you get a 3/8 straight thread tap, they are not standard tapered threads.

Personally, get it swapped to running AN fittings and goop em up
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Old 11-09-2017, 08:14 PM   #23
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I’m leaning towards AN fittings because the heads are on and the motor is in the car. Would it be okay if I switched to the AN fittings with just less thread?
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Old 11-09-2017, 08:14 PM   #24
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As so there is less to screw in and would tighten easier
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Old 11-17-2017, 10:32 AM   #25
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Sorry to bring up an old thread. But I’ve had school and work. I really don’t want to take the heads back off, also I would rather not tap the hole with it bolted to the motor haha. So what if I just cut off a couple threads then deburred and sanded the bolt to mimic the factory ones just shorter.
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Old 11-17-2017, 01:06 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldrhino37 View Post
Sorry to bring up an old thread. But Iíve had school and work. I really donít want to take the heads back off, also I would rather not tap the hole with it bolted to the motor haha. So what if I just cut off a couple threads then deburred and sanded the bolt to mimic the factory ones just shorter.
Say what?

The bolts you are using now are longer than the OEM factory ones?
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Old 11-17-2017, 01:08 PM   #27
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No they are factory bolts. But if they were less thread it would screw in tight. In theory haha
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