Taking Intake Off
#1
Taking Intake Off
So im taking my intake off due to water being mixed in with the oil. I need to get whatever is on top of the valley out, my question is do I just pour clean oil and let it drain in the pain or do I suck it out with a vac?
#3
Here is a thread I made earlier where you replied.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...er-intake.html
I had the injectors out and it rained really hard so water got inside the intake
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...er-intake.html
I had the injectors out and it rained really hard so water got inside the intake
#4
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
I'd clean the snot out of the oil valley just using paper towels. Buy five or more quarts of cheap oil and pour it all over the oil valley, let it drain and then use quality oil/filter and drive on.
#7
So I got it apart and theres alot of residue that wont come off with just paper towels. Can I use a razor to scrape it off? I just dont want anything falling down in the motor. What is the best way to clean it?
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#10
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
Cover the lifter valley (not oil valley) with rags or paper towels. Get a razor blade and scrape off old gasket. Once done remove rags or paper towels carefully. Closely examine lifter valley and pick out remaining gasket material, then proceed with pouring in cheap oil...
#11
OP
After you clean all the surfaces and get any debris out of the engine galley and pour/drain the oil part wipe all mating surfaces a few times with Acetone
Use Permatex Black "ultra" RTV on front & rear china walls, 3/8" bead, running up about 3/4" onto the heads/gasket
You need to drop the intake on "dead nuts" onto the engine so you don't push off the RTV.
One trick to making the intake placement easy is use a 3" long piece of wood dowel or a bolt the size of intake bolt but 2" longer with the head cut off. Use in front & rear bolt hole on one side of motor only as "guides" to drop the intake on. You can "rehearse" this before putting RTV on to confirm you have no wire looms or anything in the way first. Remove guide dowel/bolts and TQ to spec in the correct sequence (basically working center out criss cross) the intake bolts. Let motor sit overnight so RTV can cure before starting
After you clean all the surfaces and get any debris out of the engine galley and pour/drain the oil part wipe all mating surfaces a few times with Acetone
Use Permatex Black "ultra" RTV on front & rear china walls, 3/8" bead, running up about 3/4" onto the heads/gasket
You need to drop the intake on "dead nuts" onto the engine so you don't push off the RTV.
One trick to making the intake placement easy is use a 3" long piece of wood dowel or a bolt the size of intake bolt but 2" longer with the head cut off. Use in front & rear bolt hole on one side of motor only as "guides" to drop the intake on. You can "rehearse" this before putting RTV on to confirm you have no wire looms or anything in the way first. Remove guide dowel/bolts and TQ to spec in the correct sequence (basically working center out criss cross) the intake bolts. Let motor sit overnight so RTV can cure before starting
#14
Haven’t had time to work on it but tomorrow is the day. My only question is do I have to drain my coolant when taking the intake off? A buddy of mine keeps saying I have to but for what reason??
#18
It has the bypass but now I have another problem. It just cranks and doesn't turn over. I smell alot of fuel coming from the intake and it was actually smoking a little. The car has been sitting 3 years and I believe I seafoamed the same week I parked it and let it sit that long. It was also losing power and running shitty, it had a fuel odor smell but I thought it was just leaky injectors which I just recently changed with a new fuel pump as well. Do you think the engine is hydrolocked? My next step is to take the plugs out and try to crank it to take all the fuel or water that's in the cylinders.
#19
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
Reads like you are getting fuel. Next thing to check is ignition. You need to see if you are getting spark to the coil and wires. Most notorious issue with these engines is the optispark. Check easy things first, then you may need to pull the opti apart to see if the rotor screws backed out. Do you recall if there were any trouble codes?
#20
I need to get my hands on an old scanner and see what codes show, also I replaced the opti about 4-5 years ago but only put about 1000 miles on it since. Might have to take it out and see. First i'll see if im getting spark to the wires /coil