How to prime engine after H/C swap?
06-17-2018, 07:44 AM
#1
How to prime engine after H/C swap? I'm about ready to start my engine after having it down for a few months, and I was wondering if I need to remove the intake to prime the oil. The bottom end is untouched, but I replaced everything above the head gaskets. I forgot to use a priming tool on the pump drive, and I'm not eager to remove and reinstall the intake again.
Is there an easier solution? Can I just crank it without spark or fuel a few times to build pressure? Or do I have to get some kind of pressurized oil system to feed oil into the engine?
Is there an easier solution? Can I just crank it without spark or fuel a few times to build pressure? Or do I have to get some kind of pressurized oil system to feed oil into the engine?
06-25-2018, 10:09 AM
#4
Village Troll 
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The only fuse you need to pull is the PCM fuse. That kills the fuel pump and ignition. Also, no need to prime. Hopefully when you put the rockers in you soaked them in oil to get the trunnions lubricated as well as pouring oil onto the pushrod tips and rocker cups/lifter cups, rollers on the rocker and valve tips as well as pushrods around the guideplate areas. All points of contact valvetrain related should have a coat of oil before initial startup.
OR
Get a priming tool and spin the oil pump for several minutes. You still want oil on the guideplate areas and roller/valve tips. You don't want to actuate the valvetrain without oil in the above areas unless they've been properly lubricated. If they have then there's no need to prime any further.
OR
Get a priming tool and spin the oil pump for several minutes. You still want oil on the guideplate areas and roller/valve tips. You don't want to actuate the valvetrain without oil in the above areas unless they've been properly lubricated. If they have then there's no need to prime any further.
06-25-2018, 02:44 PM
#5
I would prefer everything oiled before I started cranking it over. Back when I still used my old LT4 intake, I made a rig to pre-oil it. Years ago, I made it from an old points-type distributor. Put the cam gear in a lathe, removed all the teeth, left the top of the shaft off, and just drop it in, and spin it over with a 1/2" cordless drill. I have an oil pressure gauge on a hose that screws to my oil pressure fitting at the back. It also shows you the max oil pressure. Used that before installing the intake.
Still use it today, workes fine with my Hogan sheet metal intake, that has the distributor provision.
Still use it today, workes fine with my Hogan sheet metal intake, that has the distributor provision.
Last edited by Ed Wright; 06-25-2018 at 02:46 PM. Reason: Forgot something....
06-26-2018, 07:40 AM
#7
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06-30-2018, 01:57 PM
#10
Knowing my motor was about a month away from start up with my cam swap i used assembly lube on my cam lobes and journals so the cam bearings would 100% be lubed upon start up a month or more later. Also the cam gear and oil pump drive gear got assembly lube. Lifters were soaked in oil for a night after being cleaned then installed.
Once the engine was totally assembled a month or two later i simply removed the valve covers and dumped 5 quarts of oil all over my rockers, springs, and pushrods then re-installed the valve covers and fired it up.
Changed oil after 15min of run time, then at 100 miles, then at 500 miles.
11k miles on cam swap and she runs great and has great oil pressure.
Once the engine was totally assembled a month or two later i simply removed the valve covers and dumped 5 quarts of oil all over my rockers, springs, and pushrods then re-installed the valve covers and fired it up.
Changed oil after 15min of run time, then at 100 miles, then at 500 miles.
11k miles on cam swap and she runs great and has great oil pressure.