Lt1/383 Vibration
Last edited by Dcrow; Oct 14, 2018 at 07:18 AM. Reason: Add info
Self tuning...doable if you know what you are doing....as you can really FU stuff if you don't
on the engine vibration...is the motor now "internally" balanced and you are still using a stock flex plate or flywheel?
Last edited by Dcrow; Oct 14, 2018 at 01:45 PM. Reason: More info
There are people who still tune mail order. moehorsepower, Solomon are 2 names that come to mind
I am sure others can give suggestions on who still does it
If you want to self learn that is fine but you will wind up being a lot of trial & error IMHO. Doesn't work like Spinal Tap where you turn everything up to 11....
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Step 1 is get it tuned. Nothing you do before that happens will be of any relevance and will be simply time and money wasted. Google LT1 tuning and avoid PCM4Less as they will rob you. Solomon, PCMPerformance, Moe Bailey are some of the tuners that do mail-order tunes. They'll also burn the tune into your PCM and send it back to you. Then get a good OBD1 cable (NOT red devil river) and a laptop. Download eehack to the laptop, run it, and hook up to the car. At this point, look for someone that knows what to watch for in the logs and try to learn from them. Once the car has been datalogged, you will have a much easier time knowing what to start testing.
... and all this is to say that the car actually does have a miss and its not just the cam - because some cams can really make the engine chop.
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You must have a good cable to do anything, and its something that anyone with an LT1 should have. If you have a cable and eehack you can just tell the tuner what you have, and what your build specs are, and they can email you the tune. You then upload it yourself to the pcm. More often than not - its cheaper to do it this way.
Atlanta has given you solid advice...your choice on whether to follow it.
Contact one of the tuners suggested. They generally charge around $200 ish to tune it. You fill out a form noting whatever mods the motor/car has and ship them your PCM.
The tune you get will then allow the motor to run as it should with the cam/injectors. etc you have. You may have a "mechanical" issue that is causing problems but you can't begin to address whatever that might be until the motor has a tune to run it properly
Having the ability to then log data or at least view live stream data while you drive is very helpful in confirming tune is good for your car. If you feel there is some drivability or performance issue because of the tune, the Tuner will ask you to log x.y.z something so he knows wtf "your" motor is doing. Sometimes these issues are tune related...or more often something mechanically wrong be it part...or the way it was installed (valve lash for example). The tuner can then make revisions if it is tune related based on the data log parameter (s) he asks for.
Along the way you will learn more about what the hundreds of parameters/cells mean and if you then want to make "tuning" adjustments you can if you have the software to do so
383 H/C build is well known stuff for a qualified mail order tuner.
This cable is the one I suggest. I bought the Red Devil cable first, and it cooked three PCMs due to running counterfeit FTDI chips. Bought the other cable and have flashed dozens of times without a hitch
Or you can waste time and money sending PCM's back and forth and having your chosen tuner make random shots in the dark.
Last edited by atlantadan; Oct 15, 2018 at 05:26 PM.





