Opinion on build.
#1
Opinion on build.
I have to pull my engine because of a problem. I was going to build a 383 but I decided against doing that as it is cost prohibitive to do it right. I only plan to use the car on the street and only on weekends to go to little car events we have locally.
right now I have lowered the car, relocate brackets, lca, panhar, and BMr front suspension parts. 3400 stall vig converter and 3.42 in the rear.
I'm thinking of getting the bottom reworked and just doing some le2 heads and a custom cam along with some kooks headers. What's your opinion?
right now I have lowered the car, relocate brackets, lca, panhar, and BMr front suspension parts. 3400 stall vig converter and 3.42 in the rear.
I'm thinking of getting the bottom reworked and just doing some le2 heads and a custom cam along with some kooks headers. What's your opinion?
#3
Man-Crush Warning
iTrader: (1)
Do the best you can with the budget you got.
If that is a stock rebuild, than great, I bet you will be happy. Running a nice NA screamer will easily get you low 11s but piston choice may limit your ability to add nitrous later.
If you can swing getting machine work done as stated above, you will get a bit more options with piston choice.This would help getting SCR/DCR set up and let you potentially run nitrous later.
For the most part, the power will be made in the heads so it will all work great.
If that is a stock rebuild, than great, I bet you will be happy. Running a nice NA screamer will easily get you low 11s but piston choice may limit your ability to add nitrous later.
If you can swing getting machine work done as stated above, you will get a bit more options with piston choice.This would help getting SCR/DCR set up and let you potentially run nitrous later.
For the most part, the power will be made in the heads so it will all work great.
#4
I have about 6k to spend. I figured doing a proper 383 would put me north of 10k.
I'm looking at 1600 for heads, 1700 for headers and y pipe. Send what ever they charge me for the bottom plus a few supporting mods like new injectors and what not.
the bottom end was rebuilt about 6 years ago but it sat for 4 years and something happened while it sat as there is metal shavings in the pan.
I'm looking at 1600 for heads, 1700 for headers and y pipe. Send what ever they charge me for the bottom plus a few supporting mods like new injectors and what not.
the bottom end was rebuilt about 6 years ago but it sat for 4 years and something happened while it sat as there is metal shavings in the pan.
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
IMO, for what you are using the car for i think LE1 heads for $900 would be perfect for a 355. LE ports them out to around 190cc runners, very nice for a stock shortblock. Get a cam in the 218/224 duration range and have a perfect running weekend cruiser.
Save the $$ from the kooks and get pacesetter long tubes or one of the stainless steel options out there such as speed engineering. Spent the extra $$ you saved and get the GMMG catback exhaust, arguably the best sounding on a LT1.
Save the $$ from the kooks and get pacesetter long tubes or one of the stainless steel options out there such as speed engineering. Spent the extra $$ you saved and get the GMMG catback exhaust, arguably the best sounding on a LT1.
Trending Topics
#9
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
OP,
Talk to whatever shops you can to see if they'd have a problem with those headers and hi-flow cats because technically they are not legal for use on public roads unless they have an EO number, or ask other people who have modified street cars to see where they take theirs. If a shop gets caught passing a car with modified exhaust it's a pretty hefty fine.
#12
Yes, but depending on the inspector, if they don't have an EO number, and if they raise a stink about the catalytic converters being moved from stock location it could mean an automatic fail.
OP,
Talk to whatever shops you can to see if they'd have a problem with those headers and hi-flow cats because technically they are not legal for use on public roads unless they have an EO number, or ask other people who have modified street cars to see where they take theirs. If a shop gets caught passing a car with modified exhaust it's a pretty hefty fine.
OP,
Talk to whatever shops you can to see if they'd have a problem with those headers and hi-flow cats because technically they are not legal for use on public roads unless they have an EO number, or ask other people who have modified street cars to see where they take theirs. If a shop gets caught passing a car with modified exhaust it's a pretty hefty fine.
#13
well that's why I want to go with kooks as it's a guaranteed pass. If I go with something else its questionable. I asked him about it last time I got the car inspected I asked about headers and what would be legal. The crappy part is I have a few more years and I dont even need an emissions inspection.
#15
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
I have about 6k to spend. I figured doing a proper 383 would put me north of 10k.
I'm looking at 1600 for heads, 1700 for headers and y pipe. Send what ever they charge me for the bottom plus a few supporting mods like new injectors and what not.
the bottom end was rebuilt about 6 years ago but it sat for 4 years and something happened while it sat as there is metal shavings in the pan.
I'm looking at 1600 for heads, 1700 for headers and y pipe. Send what ever they charge me for the bottom plus a few supporting mods like new injectors and what not.
the bottom end was rebuilt about 6 years ago but it sat for 4 years and something happened while it sat as there is metal shavings in the pan.
#17
I'd get SRP or Mahle forged flat top pistons, Eagle 4340 Hbeam rods, cut polish stock crank, ARP head/main studs, LE2 heads and cam or custom cam, have LE port your intake 52 or 58mm tb then for exhaust XS Power 1 3/4" stainless headers (Kooks knockoffs $500) Speed Engineering over the axle true duals ($500) and 36# injectors and a tune.