LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 No Start

Old Mar 9, 2019 | 09:32 PM
  #1  
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Default LT1 No Start

Recently I replaced my engine in my 1996 TA. Got it all back together and it ran for about 15 minutes. Parked it until the next day and now I can’t get it to start. What I have new on the car is below.
  1. opti
  2. Spark plugs
  3. fuel pressure regulator, pump, filter
  4. injectors
  5. wireset
  6. ICM
  7. RADIATOR
  8. Coolant temp sensors
I have voltage at Opti HARNESS, I see voltage while cranking the engine at the ICM connector also the two outside terminals are powered with key on for the same connector. Fuel pump is pumping. No security light on also can hear relay click behind the glove box. I did see exposed injector wires on the pigtails so I replaced 4 pigtails 2,4,1 and 3. Also verified injectors clicking when turning the opti. Voltage is on all 8 injectors also.
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 07:39 PM
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Have you verified actual spark from the boot off with a spark tester? As well as check fuel pressure from the schrader valve itself vs just verifying hearing the pump and injectors? Air fuel and spark, gotta rule it out the basics. Is the car stock or modified in any way?
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 08:56 PM
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I ran a Noid test and only one injector would light up. The number 1 injector. All others failed the Noid test! The fuel pressure is around 40psi. No security light.
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 08:58 PM
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Car is bone stock, verified spark at number 1 cylinder also spark at the coil.
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Bmoore34
I ran a Noid test and only one injector would light up. The number 1 injector. All others failed the Noid test! The fuel pressure is around 40psi. No security light.
Injectors shutting down sounds like a VATS problem... but with no light on that’s rather odd. do you know if someone or yourself has gone the “resistor” mod to bypass the VATS? It’s usually problematic compared to having a tuner just tune it out. Anyways, for troubleshooting, the PCM controls the ground for the injectors. You should have 12v at the pink wires with the key turned to the “on” position, then the PCM will ground the injector that will be firing. There is no ground wire running to the battery or engine from the injectors and you can’t have it always grounded out or it will be on 100% duty cycle.
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 01:07 AM
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Maybe I have had multiple issues, I ordered a new pcm, installed it today and now All injectors pass the Noid test. I checked to see if someone bypassed the security VATS system and all wires look to be oem. The car does have an alarm but it doesn’t connect to the security nor does it have remote start. I pulled the plugs and they were wet. I haven’t changed the ignition coil. Maybe I fouled out the plugs trying to get it to start. Another thing has happen is while cranking WOT I busted 2 starters.
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 10:38 AM
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Voltage at the opti harness going into the PCM?
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 11:33 AM
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What is the proper way to check for voltage leaving the opti and going to the pcm. Wouldn’t that test be confirmed when I see voltage at the ICM from the PCM or did I miss an important step? 😣Problem solved!Ended up being fouled plugs due to the ICM failure! I also have a set of performance wires that I believe are killing the ICM. I am going to replace with stock spec wires and see if I can get the car to run longer than 30 minutes without killing the ICM.

Last edited by Bmoore34; May 25, 2019 at 08:59 PM. Reason: Update!
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