So recently I’ve been looking into getting some work done under the hood on my 95Z28. I’m fairly new to working on cars but I have a knowledgeable mechanic with all the tools and experience needed to help me, however he told me that he doesn’t source LT1 parts anymore. We agreed that if I could bring him what’s necessary, he’ll do the job. I’ve had my eyes set on the cc502 cam as it fits in with what I’m wanting out of my car: a streetable build with a mid-range cam that retains some drivability while pushing well past the stock 275hp. The only work done to the car so far includes a CAI and Magnaflow Catback. I’m wanting to do a cam swap along with some headers and a tune. I have some questions and was hoping some of you could help me out. I want to make sure that I get everything done smoothly and correctly so I don’t run into problems later. I found this guide on cam selection, which has been pretty useful:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/1090844-lt1-camshaft-valvetrain-selection-guide-matt.html

I’m on a budget of about $5-$6k max
1) I’ve been piecing together what I need for the cam swap. I’m real interested in the cc502.
2)To accomodate for that, I’m looking at the LUNATI-73925K5 SPRING KIT that has a max lift of .630. The kit comes with the valve springs, retainers, locks, and valve stem seals. What about shims though, won’t those be needed?
3) For the RRs, I’ve been looking at the 1:6 Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum Roller Rockers.
4) I’m also looking at comp cams hardened pushrods, as that has been recommended to me. I’m not sure on the length of pushrood that I need though, I know that it depends on a few things. I figured it would be best to talk that over with my mechanic and wait to see what he says about it before I buy anything in a haste.
5) For lifters, I plan on picking up some LS7 lifters. The guide says it’s highly recommended for high-mileage cars, and while mine isn’t too high, is it a good idea to take care of that now?
6) Is it recommended to get a new timing chain and water pump, or is that dependent on the condition of them? How about the optispark, should that get replaced too while the work is being done? The car only has 50k miles on it and is in great condition, but we won’t know just how well those things have held up over the years until the engine is taken apart.
7) I’ve been looking at kooks lt headers and their y-pipe, however they’re pretty damn expensive, and I’m not sure of what the total will be yet for parts and labor. Does anyone have any recommendations, or are kooks the way to go? Anything in particular that works best with the Magnaflow catback?
8) for the tune, I was looking into getting a mail-order tune, as that would be the most efficient way for me to get the tune as far as ease and cost are concerned. I’ve read that a mail-order tune is not as reliable as a dyno tune however, so is it worth it in the end, or should I really go with the dyno tune?
9) Is there anything that I’m missing, other things that need to be done/should be done or bought in order to complete the job? I know I’ll have to source the gaskets needed. A friend of mine has been recommending that I get ported heads, however I don’t know too much about that or what needs to be done for them.

 

On a mild setup like that, Dyno tune is really not worth the cost unless you want one, Some mail orders are good enough, I can give you some info on how they are done

 

I had the same setup pretty much except stock manifolds. For a street car it was pretty fun and I would have kept that setup if i didn't develop a rod knock .

I have the cc502 cam and a set of GMPP 1.6 s/a rockers. If your interested in them make me an offer.

 

With that kind of budget you should talk to Lloyd, you'll be much happier with the results rather than just tossing in the CC502 cam

 

Man, I’m so new that I’ve never heard of the man haha. How would I contact him?

 

website is Elliot Port Works.

 

Do you have an auto or manual. If you go above a cc502 and have an auto your gonna want a new trq converter. With the cc502 and stock converter you feel a little bit of surge but nothing uncontrollable.

 

That's another great thing about talking to Lloyd, he knows all of this stuff, he's been down this road with customers countless times. When he sets you up with something it'll work. Honestly if I was the OP an LE1 really sounds like it would be the ticket. Most of the money in Lloyd's heads are in quality parts but the LE1 continues to use the stock valves iirc with a great valve job. Alot of the parts listed in the original post that the OP is going to purchase will be on LLOYD'S heads, springs and retainers, guideplates, etc.
OP, Dude, Lloyd will make something work really well for you and your may even consider a mild converter upgrade. Honestly, Lloyd been help you make that decision as well.
http://elliottsportworks.com/

LT1 LE1

By admin
LT1-LE1
LT1 LE1 heads are capable of producing 360 to 380 RWHP with our small 218/224
custom cam and 400+ RWHP with our 232/240 .578/.574 110 LSA custom cam.

LT1 LE1 heads consist of :

Re-machined Stock Valves
Crane Dbl Valve Springs (145 lbs seat and 370 lbs open)
Steel retainers and locks
195 cc intake port
milling, cleaning and assembly
flow about 260/180 CFM
assembled and ready to bolt on!

$900 for LT1 LE1 heads.
$1200 for LT1 LE1 heads and any custom billet cam mentioned above.

• upgrade to Manley stainless steel 1.94/1.50 valves – Add $100
• upgrade to Manley Race Flo 2.00/1.56 valves – Add $250
• upgrade to PAC 1218 or 1220 Bee Hive springs set up -Add $150
• upgrade to Patriot Gold Extreme spring set up – Add $150
• 218/224 .570/.565 111 LSA. – 1500-6000 RPM
  Great low and mid range power with very mild idle and will easily pass emissions. Works with
  stock gear and factory converter. Comparable to popular Crane 227 cam and GM 845 cam.

 

Wow, that’s pretty eye-opening haha. I’ll definitely be contacting him; seems like he’s the go-to guy for this. As I said I’m new to all of this so whatever way I can reach my goal efficiently and get the most bang for my buck I’m open to it.