Little bit about the car:

97 Z28 A4 with just about 76K on it, driven maybe 500 miles a year or so.

Mods - Pacesetter Long Tubes, ORY-Pipe with a dump before the axle, cat delete and no muffler, 373 MOTIVE orange gears, Richmond MEGA rebuild kit, TorqHead 24X swap, lingenfelter supertube cold air intake, TB bypass, SLP airfoil, entire car is adjustable UMi suspension either Poly/Rotor or Delrin/Rod (K-member, Sways, everything), Bilstein shocks, Koni Springs, Slotted rotors by RotorWorks aka Brake Motive aka Power Stop, HAWKS HPS front and rear pads. New inner and outer tie rods as well.

Still have the original 60E that won't be built for a while atleast same with the rear end. I will be going with a Tru-Cool 40K trans cooler as well. Anything else I would need?

What stall do I go with?

Forever I've had my mind set on a YANK SS3600 single disc. Is there any benefit to going triple billet disc?

Future Plans - Minimum of LE stage 2 heads and custom cam, Probable - AFR heads and custom cam (want close to 400 rwhp). Eventual goal just a 383 stroker with large heads and cam.

 

I had a yank 4000 in my n/a gto (05). I liked it. I ended up going with a fti triple disk, for the wot lockup. I'd say stick with a single disk, as long as you stay n/a.

 

I'd rather be a bit short on stall rather than go with too much.

With your car.....I'd opt for a Yank 3000-3200 stall....but that's just me.

If you race....A LOT....and you just HAVE to go all out, then go 3600-4000 stall.

But more stall for the track equals less drivability in street traffic.

KW

 

I don't know Jack about stall converters. My old setup was a cc502 and stock manifolds and I had a vigilante 3400 stall and I liked the way the car drove on the street.


I will add I was very nervous how it would be on the street and honestly it didn't react much differently then the stock converter.

I'm gonan run the same converter with my 383 le2 setup

 

I had a Yank ST3500, hated it. Too loose. Had shifting problems at the track because the OBD1 PCM lost track of the VSS and it would go into limp-home mode at launch. So beware loose converters.

I sent it back to Yank and had it rebuilt as a SY3000. Loved it. No VSS problems, just right on the street.

I then converted to a 6 speed and sold it.

 

I had good luck with circle D stuff when I was NA, ended up with a 4k stall and it drove fine. All depends on how loose they spec the thing (I know thats not correct terms)

Currently have a 3400 area FTI and thats wayyyy to tight for racing, but, it drives really nice. Which is what I stressed to FTI when I spec'd it out. Triple disk etc etc.

Either way, IMO, plan on redoing all the trans cooler lines with fittings, be it twist tite stuff or braided SS stuff. Rigging in hose clamps etc will always find a way to ruin your day. Also look into a transgo HD2 kit, or whatever its called these days.

 

I'd see if there may be anyone near by with a stalled car you could drive or ride in. YouTube videos also help to a degree. I have personally ran or have personal experience with three Yank converters: SS3200, SS3600, PT4000. The first thing I'll say is that the converter that may be best for you now will not necessarily be the ideal converter later if/when you take on those additional mods. That's why many people like myself send the converters back in for a restall when the setup changes.

From my experiences, for an N/A street/strip car the PT series converters absolutely **** all over the SS series from a performance perspective but it comes at a price, it's a little loose around town which gets annoying. On the flip side, for a car where daily drivability or tightness is the main concern, the SS series is the absolute way to go. The drawback there is the shift extension isn't super ideal for N/A drag racing so you give up some there. A Yank SS3200 or equivalent from Circle D or FTI would probably be a good way to go for you now (unless you want to maximize 1/4 mile times in which case an SS3600 or equivalent would be my recommendation) but once you go heads/cam I'm not liking it, that's when I'd step it up to an SS3600 at a minimum so perhaps just go SS3600 now to save yourself the trouble. I use to daily drive my car with a Yank SS3600 and 3.73s and it's a badass combo for a street car or street/strip car. I was a teenager back then so my 31 year old self wouldn't want to daily drive that now but I loved that setup. Once you go heads/cam or stroker, if you want max N/A performance whether it be at the track or for roll racing on the street the PT series or equivalent is the absolute way to go. PT just isn't appropriate for your current setup since you aren't revving the car high enough with the stock cam.