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Can someone help point me in the direction of a good timing set replacement for my build? I’ll be running a streetable build pushing around 370rwhp, going the EWP route, nothing too crazy. I know how everyone talks about the looseness of the stock timing chain, but is it really bad enough that I should go aftermarket? In that case, I’m not particularly interested in running a double roller set, just something with less slack.
Double roller is the way to go IMO. I have a Cloyes Hexajust in my car that's been in there for 12 years now. If you're ditching the water pump drive then there's no sense in not putting a good timing set in it. 96/97 cars are a bit different due to the crank sensor in the timing cover but I'm fairly certain you can still run a double roller with those as well. I know I had put some thought into that when the EFI connection LS PCM conversion was a new idea and if I recall it can be done.
IIRC with the hex a just I had to slightly grind the adjuster cam on the backside so that I had timing cover clearance, easy peazy.
My motor #2 ran a CompCams double roller set. The center section of the cam gear sheared loose and it trashed valves (it was still bolted to the cam, but the gear itself broke). I've never seen anything like it... I'll never run another CompCams of that design again (slots around the center section). Motor #4 is running a Cloyes with no issues (and the cam that came out of motor #2).
Double roller is the way to go IMO. I have a Cloyes Hexajust in my car that's been in there for 12 years now. If you're ditching the water pump drive then there's no sense in not putting a good timing set in it. 96/97 cars are a bit different due to the crank sensor in the timing cover but I'm fairly certain you can still run a double roller with those as well. I know I had put some thought into that when the EFI connection LS PCM conversion was a new idea and if I recall it can be done.
IIRC with the hex a just I had to slightly grind the adjuster cam on the backside so that I had timing cover clearance, easy peazy.
So with a double roller all I have to do is take care of the timing cover clearance, and that’s it? I can just run that with an EWP and call it a day? And the cloyes hexajust is the double roller set to get I’m assuming?
Last edited by Joseph95; Sep 23, 2019 at 07:48 AM.
IIRC you don't actually have to do anything to the timing cover itself besides block the hole the the water pump drive came through. You'll also need to block the hole in the back of the water pump itself and unbolt the mechanical water pump drive from the engine. It's been a few winks for me since I've done it but if you need any help I'll be glad to, I just might need a pic or two to refresh my memory.
As far as the timing set itself goes the Hexajust was my choosing to dial in the cam timing, you don't have to use it, you can use a standard double roller set that will require no grinding like I had to do. I would still recommend using a Cloyes though. Some sets you can get will have an old cast gear for the cam gear, I'd just steer clear of those and get one that has a steel cam gear even if you don't use a Cloyes.
Using a double roller on a '96/'97 car you cannot use hub because of the crank sensor reloctor wheel. Hub will be too short. A hub from a '95/earlier will have to be ued since it did not use a reluctor wheel and is longer.
The timing cover does need some light clearancing. Plenty of threads about it here and other places. Or, install the double roller chain, put some grease on it, put it on the block and see where it's making contact.
This is the chain I use:
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Timing Set for LT1 
