Jon

I know you would prefer not to remove the intake to prime and people do turn motor over with starter with FI fuse pulled to prime......but since the motor is on a stand pulling the intake is just a few minutes. Granted cleaning the RTV off the china walls and re-wiping all mating surfaces with acetone before re-installing gaskets & RTV takes longer but it is all "motor on stand" work which to me is very doable. FWIW I chose to pull my intake on a assembled motor I got from Golen and used a drill and a oil pump drive tool to prime my motor

FWIW on my Ford 302 crate motor in my 70 Torino I did the "starter turnover" method....and lost a rod bearing. YMMV

So if you elect to pull the intake I would, and do, use the FelPro "printo" seal intake manifold gaskets. I would never re-use a already compressed gasket. The printo seal gaskets have the blue stripe sealant around the port openings.

 

Also, OP, what kind of oil pump shaft do you have? Does it have a metal sleeve or is it the stock crap plastic sleeve guaranteed to break? If it's the latter, get something like this:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small...Shaft,569.html

 

Even if the pump had instant suction, which rarely happens even if packed with jelly, it would still be at least a dozen or so further revolutions before oil actually started to reach the crank, and many more r's before the oil actually got all the way to the rockers (the last part in the LT's oiling system...)

Lt's pumps run off the cam, which turns as soon as the crank does - so essentially the same as what you're stating. it's a fool's gamble to use the starter and engine revolutions to pre-lube an engine. As stated above, even in a perfect scenario where the pump was packed with petrolium jelly for good suction, the entire block is dry. That means all those galleys and passages need to be filled and that takes X revolutions of the pump to do so. On a fresh build, I have had a drill run for a good 15 - 30 seconds before seeing pressure on the gauge, and even longer before it gets to the rockers. Every revolution of the rotating assembly that's done without oil pressure is increasing the potential for damage. Y'all do you - that's cool. Just don't tell people it's totally safe to use the starter to pre-lube the engine. It sure as hell is better than turning the key and letting it eat, but it's definitely not the proper way to do it.

OP - As SS RRR stated, you need the metal-collared drive shaft. I have a new, Melling one on the shelf I will send you for $0. You pay for the ride. PM me if you are interested. The downside is that you have to pull the oil pump to replace it. But if the engine is on a stand, it's not that big of a deal.

 

SS RRR, I have no idea what sleeve I have....I would bet money on stock. Also does anyone have an answer to which tool I can use and how long oil will stay primed?

 

I bet stock. Are you saying if I use the drill method, the sleeve will break?

 

Of course I have since placed the engine onto the K-member, fought with the engine mount bolts, and placed the flywheel on. This process is getting to be quite frustrating. I still have easy access to the intake though...how long does the motor stay primed using the tool?

 

No. This thread just reminded me about the crappy stock ones. They are notorious for breaking. It's very cheap insurance and you really should put one in.

 

Oy...talking about taking several steps backwards and wasting money. Loving my builder more and more by the minute

 

Priming tool ordered along with new gaskets. Frustrating to say the least, however better than a grenade.

 

Jon, you are taking the safer path. Contact your builder and ask if he "re-used" the stock oil pump shaft. The plastic collar on it ages and gets brittle and putting those back in motors the collar often cracks as a result.....and down the road breaks so a one piece metal one is cheap. Same deal with oil pump drive gear under intake. The plastic top ages and on re-install if the one small bolt is over TQ it can crack and if it breaks you lose oil pressure. Nothing wrong with re-using this gear but be prudent on TQ of that one small bolt (read 1/4" drive "snug" tight with loc-tite). You need to remove it to prime the motor so just look at it. Some use a larger washer between it and bolt top to disperse the TQ some.

You asked for comments and have them and the majority say prime with a drill. You will be fine if it takes a few weeks or so to get the car assembled. Just pull the FI fuse before first start up until you do see oil pressure using starter. It should reach OP very quick just like starting the car after it has sat for a month

While not necessary with roller cams I also let the motor run for about 20 min at 2k rpm/ vs just idle. That keeps the oil pressure up. Look for leaks above and under car. A IR temp gun is handy to monitor exhaust on each cyl to confirm they are fairly = temp. A low temp one would show a cyl not firing. I usually drain theoil after the 1st 20 min. There is a lot of assembly lube and minute debris in oil. Not a bad idea to use a high zinc content oil like Valvoline VR1 on initial start up process.

Then drive it starting in low, or 1st gear, and bring car up to 3500 rpm and decelerate. Do this 3-4 times then increase to 4500 rpm and do that a few more times. This loads the pistons/rings and set them. Then just drive "normal", don't baby it. Also don't drive for a sustained speed on Fwy for the first 1k mi, fluctuate speed. Just my $.02

 

Agreed. I can guarantee he re-used the old one. I will take all this advice and apply it. Thanks for all your replies the last few months ******

 

Alright, losing my mind a bit now. I have a LE billet cam in this thing. Is that cam going to eat my stock oil drive gear? Also ******, wouldn’t putting a washer on shorten the bolt’s grab in the threads?

 

Ask Lloyd if his billet cam has a melonized gear. If so the stock drive gear is fine.

Using a washer, FWIW I did not, would not reduce the length of the small retaining bolt enough to make any difference IMHO. The stock bolt alone is fine, just be prudent on it's TQ. I can't remember the TQ but I think it is 7 ft lbs so I just go "snug" using a 1/4" drive short ratchet (read take very little effort to tighten the bolt)

re-using the stock oil pump drive does not mean 100% it will break but you won't knw if the plastic collar did crack on re-install and a solid metal one is so cheap that is why most, including me, used one

 

Lloyd says they use an EVERWEAR gear but I should use a new gear. Book says 13lbs of torque and going to call the builder today on the shaft. I've already got a new gear and shaft on the way.

 

Success!!! Took like three minutes to get oil out the rockers. Blue loctited the gear drive and “snugged” it up using a 1/4” drive. Thanks again!!

 

You will sleep much better knowing you did the job correctly.

BTW - heads have some nice port work!

 

Yeah and if a "new" gear assembly that would be in the zone...But IMHO that is pushing it. I just did, and so did the builder, go "snug" with loc tite. The top of the gear assembly is plastic....

Everwear gears are supposed to be compatible with a melonized (stock) OP drive gear. I bought a new drive gear assembly for about $75 from a dealership parts counter

 

Well got it together today and fired it up. Had oil pressure after cranking 10 seconds twice with injector fuses pulled. Then I started it....my god....nothing could have prepared me for the noise open long tube headers produce. My heart jumped in my throat, my wife jumped in the house, my daughter in the tub yelled “what was that?” and the dog went nuts barking. Ran it for 30 seconds as I had to clean up and leave for work, but woohoo!