Ok first and foremost i must apologize to forum gods for making this my first post (you can crucify me later) and please mods feel free to move this if it is in the wrong section. i have been reading old post for years while working on these cars got a lot of great info from here and shbox (life saver that one) but im at wits end and im enlisting the help of all you find people here.

let me start with the back history on this car and the info itself.

it is a 94 25th anniversary Trans Am conv. LT1 auto with 107xxx miles on the clock.

the owner parked it 2-1/2 years ago because it left him sitting on the side of the road after having some running issues. apparently when it was cold (first started) it ran like a raped ape. then once up to temp it would begin to act strange. while sitting at a light or stop sign the rpm would jump to around 1500-1800 (lurch you through the sign if your foot wasn't fully on the break) then drop back to around 600-700 (normal rpm range). the following is a list of parts he replaced over the 2.5 year period trying to figure it out in all its only had about 50 miles put on it in that time.

opti spark (not ac delco. not sure of manufacturer)
plugs and wires (AC delco)
MAF
TPS (throttle position sensor)
coil (not AC Delco)
ICM (AC Delco)
Catalytic converter
both O2 sensors.

no change and no luck.

fast forward to this past Christmas or rather just before. he brings it to me and by now it doesnt even start. i began my diagnoses and quickly or close to it anyway determine there is a fuel delivery issue. pump runs gauge says full but no fuel. long story short mice got the plastic fuel line and chewed a few holes in it. i decide to drop the tank and clean it since its been sitting only to find out its bone dry. long story short i replaced the entire sending unit and pump assembly (spectra) got fuel to the engine and she starts and runs great. well at least until she got up to full operating temp. while on my test drive and filling up with fresh 93 octane she starts to run funny again and i finally confirm what he was trying to explain with the surging rpm. i limped her back to the shop ( had to let it idle the whole way if i gave it gas it tried to bog and die). got back died in the driveway and wouldnt restart. after a few hours it fired right up like nothing was wrong.

the following are the codes pulled from the car all of them are OBD1
42
43
44
45
51
53
54
55
some contradict each other.

fast forward to now in the intervening time i discovered water flowing out of the exhaust and not the typical condensation typically found in the system i mean enough to make puddles on the floor under every joint from the manifolds to the tips and the radiator that i had just topped off was low again. also found water under the right valve cover (enough to make small puddles float on the oil) car barley would run for 2 minutes then got to the point it wouldnt even start, just sounded like a dead battery trying to turn over the car. all leading to a head gasket issue. i replaced the head gaskets along with the water pump temp sensor (under the thermostat) and switch (left head) deleted the egr and air pump. while off i checked the injectors most floated between 11.8 and 12.3 ohms except 2 which came in at 11.3 and 11.4. that seemed low so 8 new accel injectors were installed 30lbs an hour (summit says these are direct replacements) all ohm around 14.3

everything has been fully reassembled and reinstalled (i dropped the motor and trans together with the k member from under the car to make work easier plus had to do some suspension work) however now the car wont start it just turns over. im kinda at wits end with this one both the original problem of surging (dont know if its fixed now or not as it wont start) and the not starting. it has fuel but as far as i can tell there is no spark i double checked all my wiring and nothing is broken or unhooked or hooked up wrong etc.

any and all advice is greatly appreciated and i do apologize for the very long post im just trying to give as much information as i can

thanks all

she is getting spark as she coughs trying to start. almost acts like the old chevy v8s when they are 180 degrees out. yes i double checked wires and in the correct place and in correct firing order

 

Are those 30# injectors tuned into the PCM? Not saying that's your issue. It should start regardless, but can deliver far too much fuel to the point of washing down the cylinders.
Shoebox has a way to test why you aren't getting spark:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test

It could be either a bad opti harness or worse, opti sensor is bad.

I don't see an idle air control motor in your list of parts you put on... I think shoebox has a way you can both reset and test that as well.

 

i will have to claim ignorance on the part of checking to see if the new injectors are tuned to the pcm and as for the #30 im afraid all i know about them is what customer service at summit told me and that these are for a stock application and correct for the motor.

 

so i have spark as its trying to fire and i watched a pulled plug spark as i turned it over. but all its doing is popping and carrying on like its 180 out. after some searching im pulling the opti spark out and looking to see if the rotor came off as ive heard stories of the rotor coming off due to ppl at the factory not using lock tight on the screws. i will post more once i get it done and or get more info.

 

Unstable RPM symptoms are similar to a failing optispark. Mine would also "diesel" when turning the car off, meaning it would spin over and run a few more seconds after I had turned the ignition key off.

 

Update. I got it running. There was corrosion on in the cap and the wiring harness from the opti to the ECM (connector on intake) was bad. I cleaned the opti and replaced the harness and it fired right up.