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Where the slave rod seats on the clutch fork needs to be in line with the two studs the slave mounts to. Should be able to push it on with hand pressure. Don’t force it on.
So are you saying the fork is sitting too high as in back towards the rear end? Does it need to be sunk into the bellhousing more towards the front of the car?
Your fork looks like it is installed right. it should be "about flush" with the bell housing. Put the spacer over the 2 long studs then the slave on. If the straps on the slave have already been broken off than you will need to apply pressure to collapse the piston some to get it on then put the 2 nuts on & tighten. The plastic cup needs to be on the slave piston rod where it mates to the cup on the fork
So are you saying the fork is sitting too high as in back towards the rear end? Does it need to be sunk into the bellhousing more towards the front of the car?
Your fork needs to go in further. It needs to be in line with the two studs. Look at your slave cylinder in how the two holes for the studs and the slave rod are in line. Fork and studs need to be the same.
Ah I see what you're saying. It probably needs to be pushed in towards the TB some more. I'm working this weekend but once I'm off I'll make sure it's in to where the fork is pressed up against the T nut.
Got the fork in so the slave bolts and slave rod seat line up but holy cow I could not get it in with hand pressure. It's in tight now, no amount of wiggling at all. I think it's because that one arm of the fork is pressed up against the TB. It was tight against the input shaft when I was testing it with the trans still out so I imagine it's now tighter fitting with the TB in place.
EDIT:
Just tried the pedal and it made a couple snap noises on the first press but feels the same as it always has so I guess I'll stay the course.
w00t! She moves under her own power. I let it idle up to operating temp then went around the block a few times. Never got over 2500 rpm or 25 mph so it's possible I'll run into vibration issues since I didn't have it balanced before installing. That's the main thing I'm dreading. Shifts *so* smooth though. Clutch was just barely starting to get a slight chatter starting from a stop in 1st but I'll drive it more tomorrow.
The most pleasant surprise: it goes into reverse easier than it ever has. Used to take some muscle on a good day but now it just glides in. Love it!
Also used the Motive Power Bleeder on the front brakes. Didn't expect it to be so easy. Fluid is nice and clear now and the brakes feel just as good as before.
AND! I've added a dual purpose to the bolt access flap. I used to have the wideband and exhaust cutout wires routed under the rubber shifter boot into the center console. While convenient, that boot pinched the wires to the point I wasn't comfortable with it so now the wires are routed through the access flap. I'll post a picture of the finished product later.
Good show. The hard shifting into reverse could have been due to the clutch dragging on the flywheel even with the pedal depressed. I'd put some paint on that cutout to keep it from rusting.
Thanks for heads up about the rust. Here's how the patch turned out.
EDIT: holy crap it took me 30 minutes to figure out how to put the gas pedal back on. For anyone else that finds this, take the whole assembly off and attach the gas pedal with the assembly out of the car then put the whole thing back in.
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