Help with alternator exciter wire/wiring
Help with alternator exciter wire/wiring I'm trying to do a non-factory gauge cluster (well just autometer gauges) on my 1995. I have a factory style 2-wire (1 wire going to L on the pigtail, 12v going to the ring terminal) alternator but can't get it to excite.
I wired in a 470 ohm (multimeter reads 461 ohm) 5 watt resistor to terminal L and just hooked it to a switched 12v source (I've tried constant 12v too and it still doesn't work). The car starts and idles, the alternator just does not turn on at all.
I tried installing my alternator to my 1997. It works fine with the 1997's factory harness/connector but it doesn't work in either car if I use the 470 ohm resistor/bypass the gauge cluster field wire. I also swapped batteries too to make sure it's not something like the battery not holding a charge.
I wired in a 470 ohm (multimeter reads 461 ohm) 5 watt resistor to terminal L and just hooked it to a switched 12v source (I've tried constant 12v too and it still doesn't work). The car starts and idles, the alternator just does not turn on at all.
I tried installing my alternator to my 1997. It works fine with the 1997's factory harness/connector but it doesn't work in either car if I use the 470 ohm resistor/bypass the gauge cluster field wire. I also swapped batteries too to make sure it's not something like the battery not holding a charge.
That is really strange. I have done it several times in swapped applications but using a small instrument cluster warning lamp instead of the 470 ohm resistor. It works just fine. The lamp also doubles as a visual indication for the circuit.: Should turn on with ignition on and turn off as soon as alternator starts charging.
If your alternator works fine in your 97 all I can think of is alternator not properly grounded in your 95 but that seems almost impossible.
If your alternator works fine in your 97 all I can think of is alternator not properly grounded in your 95 but that seems almost impossible.
I found a post on another forum (thirdgen) about switching the pin from the L terminal to I (or F) terminal. I had another alternator spare pigtail and I did that. No resistor needed either. It works. Maybe there was a problem with the connector with the resistor, though it did seem to plug in ok.
TECH Addict
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,513
Likes: 480
From: PDX-OR-USA
I just went through this,, I found out that depending on the vehicle the part number was for,, some versions excite with the warning light connection(L) and some with the 12V switched (F)
I replaced a DR44g with the AD244 and had to use L instead of F. (Had to move the pin)
I finally just started the engine with the charge wire only connected (Did not self excite the AD244) then tried each of the 2 wires watching the voltage on the Terminator Dash.
Finally ended up with the classic (ALT) light which I don't mind. as the means to make it work.
Since the bulb I chose was so small to get the light to go off when the charging starts had to add one of those 6ohm resisters in series with the bulb to make it turn off correctly.
(like used when you do LED lighting... )
I replaced a DR44g with the AD244 and had to use L instead of F. (Had to move the pin)
I finally just started the engine with the charge wire only connected (Did not self excite the AD244) then tried each of the 2 wires watching the voltage on the Terminator Dash.
Finally ended up with the classic (ALT) light which I don't mind. as the means to make it work.
Since the bulb I chose was so small to get the light to go off when the charging starts had to add one of those 6ohm resisters in series with the bulb to make it turn off correctly.
(like used when you do LED lighting... )
