I know with a carb swap the opti hole is blocked off by an aftermaket plate. What about after installing an electric water pump? Or do you use a different timing cover all together? Can someone explain what needs to be removed or left alone regarding timing cover area after deleting Opti spark system and going to an electric water pump

 

you don't need to do anything to the timing cover for an EWP swap. The WP drive gear can just stay. If you remove that drive gear you could plug the hole with the right size freeze plug

The opti block off plate should not interfere with an EWP. You use the stock mechanical WP body to install a EWP on it

 

******, thank you for the response. OKAY I think I have most of the confusion weeded out. I have one last question which I know I brought up in various places but want to touch on one last time....

I bought the LT1/LT4 book (pretty cool book) the author states with the Opti plate, the standard LT1 balancer will not fit (hits timing mark) and you need to run a 6 3/4 dia. from gen 1 sbc. From what I have been reading online I think this is inaccurate info. I think Gen I balancer is not integrated with the pulley like the Lt1 is, furthermore a 6 3/4 would effectively underdrive the motor wouldnt it?? They do a carb swap but of course no pics with balancer installed anywhere in the book. I think I asked you or someone here why an aftermarket balancer was required and was told it is for the timing marks. I just wanted to make sure the 7.5" balancer will not interfere with opti timing tab. Also wanted to use either vette or B-body WP as there is no oil cooler neck or should I stick with F body.

 

I don't know what style of balancer, but what I do know is if that engine is stock it is internally balanced in the front and you do not use a "balancer" but a neutral balanced damper which is what comes stock with both the GenII LT1/LT4 engines.

 

Right, motor is internally balanced, damper is what i meant to say. Asking if 7.5" dia will clear opti blockoff timing tab, as a LT1 specific book i bought says to use a 6 3/4 dia damper which i think would cause underdrive and also alignment issues.

 

Just measure from center of crank to the timing pointer to see if the stock diameter damper clears it.

I would use the B body WP housing if yours has an additional nipple

I have had a smaller 6.780", 10% underdrive, ATI damper on my 383 for years. No issues on battery charging at idle. My idle RPM is about 850 with my cam so it is higher than a stock motor

You will need the ATI # 917071-44 for the 6.780 damper and hub # 9160488 if using F body accessory bracket. I am not seeing a smaller damper "kit" (damper & hub) for F body in their catalogue, If a 7.480 damper clears than the damper/hub kit for F body is 917268 or just use a stock replacement damper for your existing hub which would be way cheaper than ATI

you need to run a shorter belt with a smaller damper. ATI says belt size 4060630

 

Ok, got a cam question. If I go Carb intake (with HEI dist) and EWP in the front, would it be possible to run a gen 1 (roller) cam? If i get a gen 2 specific cam does it have the drive gear for the hei distributor?

What was the deal with the timing set? Able to run double roller by removing WP drive? I have not torn into it yet so I am not sure what's in there