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OP, are the pistons 2618 or 4032, and what's your quench?
4032's as for the quench Idont remember. I know its zero decked. I do recall having a conversation with my builder about it and at one point I think he said he likes a minimal of 0.035?? But i honestly don't remember. He knew when I was buuilding it I wanted to spray. But he also talked me out of the hbeam rods for weight savings.
If it were me I’d run a progressive. Reason being is a friend of mine who had a MTI built 383 ran a 150 on his and cracked all the main caps in half which were stock 2-bolt, but where cracked in the middle. The school of thought was the sudden jolt to the rotating assy from the shot to the already built engine to the crank was too much load for the caps to handle.
If it were me I’d run a progressive. Reason being is a friend of mine who had a MTI built 383 ran a 150 on his and cracked all the main caps in half which were stock 2-bolt, but where cracked in the middle. The school of thought was the sudden jolt to the rotating assy from the shot to the already built engine to the crank was too much load for the caps to handle.
weird I never heard of that happening. The lt4 has 4 bolt main caps
4032's as for the quench Idont remember. I know its zero decked. I do recall having a conversation with my builder about it and at one point I think he said he likes a minimal of 0.035?? But i honestly don't remember. He knew when I was buuilding it I wanted to spray. But he also talked me out of the hbeam rods for weight savings.
OP, with that, here are some things to consider, 4032s while more durable in regular use, are also more brittle, and tend to not deal with detonation as well as a 2618 piston. Some manufacturers recommend a max of 250hp N2O / 10 psi boost for that exact reason. Also, while having a tight quench is almost always preferred for efficiency reasons, it can actually work against you when you start to run larger shots as it narrows the tuning window. There are definitely people running a tight quench and/or 4032 pistons with a 300 shot, however the margin for error in the tune starts to become very slim. As far as your original question as to what the max is, that's going to depend on your comfort level and how good the tune is. If it were mine, personally I would use a progressive and I would limit it to a 200 shot.
weird I never heard of that happening. The lt4 has 4 bolt main caps
Understood, but I am not sure if the thickness is any different in the middle of the caps between 2 and 4-bolt. I'd never heard of anything, either and haven't since. JMHO and FWIW...
OP, with that, here are some things to consider, 4032s while more durable in regular use, are also more brittle, and tend to not deal with detonation as well as a 2618 piston. Some manufacturers recommend a max of 250hp N2O / 10 psi boost for that exact reason. Also, while having a tight quench is almost always preferred for efficiency reasons, it can actually work against you when you start to run larger shots as it narrows the tuning window. There are definitely people running a tight quench and/or 4032 pistons with a 300 shot, however the margin for error in the tune starts to become very slim. As far as your original question as to what the max is, that's going to depend on your comfort level and how good the tune is. If it were mine, personally I would use a progressive and I would limit it to a 200 shot.
Thanks for the input. Honestly after all this reading i'll probably keep it low 125-150ish to play it safe I was more worried about the rods then anything but it doesn't seem like anyone thinks that an issue. Thanks for the advise.
Understood, but I am not sure if the thickness is any different in the middle of the caps between 2 and 4-bolt. I'd never heard of anything, either and haven't since. JMHO and FWIW...
Just an FYI for anyone reading this. Mahle said 200 shot on the pistons. Scat said no more then 150 shot on the Ibeams. Your only as strong as your weakest link so I'll play it safe with 125shot. Besides she already fast AF
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