383 Stroker vs LS swap
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Joined: Jun 2021
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From: Shlumpt, TX
383 Stroker vs LS swap Calling all who built their LT1 or LT4! If you guys had to do it again would you build the LT or swap to an LS?
I'm in the pre-planning phase of trying to build the engine of my 96 Impala SS. I've begun pricing everything out to compare LS and LT cost wise but I would like to see what the general consensus is here in terms of fun and worth of the two.
LS swap would be buying a block and building it over the course of a year or two. Stroker would be buying all the parts, pulling the engine, building it and putting it back in. My knowledge on LS is far greater than LT so it would take more research to figure out a nice combo that I would like. How does everyone like Dynaspark over Optifart?
This will be a street only car. No track time basically ever. I may take it once but that is it.
I'm in the pre-planning phase of trying to build the engine of my 96 Impala SS. I've begun pricing everything out to compare LS and LT cost wise but I would like to see what the general consensus is here in terms of fun and worth of the two.
LS swap would be buying a block and building it over the course of a year or two. Stroker would be buying all the parts, pulling the engine, building it and putting it back in. My knowledge on LS is far greater than LT so it would take more research to figure out a nice combo that I would like. How does everyone like Dynaspark over Optifart?
This will be a street only car. No track time basically ever. I may take it once but that is it.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 120
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From: Tucson, AZ
I have a fully forged low compression LT1 with a Turbo. I did not build the motor, but I have redone the turbo system a few times. Its Converted OBD1 to run a speed density tune.
I'm thinking of selling the engine, trans, turbo kit, and everything so I can swap in an LS and turbo that. I HATE the opti, and the plug wires. The 24x systems are expensive, the transmission and clutchs are less plentiful and more expensive, I have popped a headgasket a couple times. I'm just kind of tired of dealing with it and the inability to get it tuned. There is just so much more out there for the LS and I'm ready to jump on the easy train.
My case is probably different than a whole lot of others, but mine has been unreliable for any long period of time and its mostly due to tuning.
I do however love the sound of the LT1 over the LS.
I'm thinking of selling the engine, trans, turbo kit, and everything so I can swap in an LS and turbo that. I HATE the opti, and the plug wires. The 24x systems are expensive, the transmission and clutchs are less plentiful and more expensive, I have popped a headgasket a couple times. I'm just kind of tired of dealing with it and the inability to get it tuned. There is just so much more out there for the LS and I'm ready to jump on the easy train.
My case is probably different than a whole lot of others, but mine has been unreliable for any long period of time and its mostly due to tuning.
I do however love the sound of the LT1 over the LS.
Thread Starter
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From: Shlumpt, TX
Requirement is keep stock gauges
@Max78 Basically all the things you listed are things I had thought of. Your combination and goals are a bit different than mine seeing as I want to stay N/A, not going to OBD1 but I understand your frustrations.
I am thinking an LS swap would be putting myself on the easy train and all around a better experience. My LT1 has 136k miles on it so I'm just breaking it in
Only maintenance I have done recently is new belt and tensioner. Need to do exhaust manifold gaskets because I have a bad exhaust leak but I was just wondering what the thoughts were. I think I have enough knowledge now to where I could swap it over the course of a weekend or two and some after work wrenching.
@Max78 Basically all the things you listed are things I had thought of. Your combination and goals are a bit different than mine seeing as I want to stay N/A, not going to OBD1 but I understand your frustrations.
I am thinking an LS swap would be putting myself on the easy train and all around a better experience. My LT1 has 136k miles on it so I'm just breaking it in
Only maintenance I have done recently is new belt and tensioner. Need to do exhaust manifold gaskets because I have a bad exhaust leak but I was just wondering what the thoughts were. I think I have enough knowledge now to where I could swap it over the course of a weekend or two and some after work wrenching.
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From: Shlumpt, TX
Oh for sure. If it was an LS swap I would be looking at a 416 stroker. Tusky posted one that was LS3 stock heads stock intake running 10.5s! A little different than my set up of course considering that was an F-body manual but should translate relatively well over methinks. Of course ideally I'd swap heads and intakes but I think to start the 416 would be fine like that.
383 is about as big as I can go on the LT1. I have seen 393(6?) but that was just something I saw online no real world examples.
383 is about as big as I can go on the LT1. I have seen 393(6?) but that was just something I saw online no real world examples.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 120
Likes: 20
From: Tucson, AZ
@shakenfake for sure my setup is a bit more extreme, but getting a tune dialed in and spot on is what makes the car.
Your car is a 96, is it not already obd1?
My car was converted to OBD1 for the better tuning options. The OBD2 lt1 have almost zero tuning options from what I remember. Maybe thats changed?
Your car is a 96, is it not already obd1?
My car was converted to OBD1 for the better tuning options. The OBD2 lt1 have almost zero tuning options from what I remember. Maybe thats changed?
Trending Topics
I did an LS1/T56 swap with 4.56 gears and a locker on my 96 Impala SS. Even with a bone stock 01 LS1 engine, the car was a different animal. I say LS swap all day long.
11:25 in this video should tell you what you need to know.
11:25 in this video should tell you what you need to know.
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Brett Foote Thread Starter
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From: Shlumpt, TX
I know you made mention of using a torque wrench, but on the lot of those lug nuts they were at least to your torque point or past, which means there's a possibility they are unevenly tight. Always a better idea to barely snug them on and then take a torque wrench to them to ensure they are evenly tight.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Tucson, AZ
@shakenfake Lean something new every day, I was thinking that change was made in 97. Explains why everyone goes for the 95 obd1 PCMs.
Going the 24x route with the 411 pcm would be the best way for sure. I currently have a 411 PCM with the votrech OS, only goes to 2 bar though. havent had the time to try it yet.
Going the 24x route with the 411 pcm would be the best way for sure. I currently have a 411 PCM with the votrech OS, only goes to 2 bar though. havent had the time to try it yet.
I know you made mention of using a torque wrench, but on the lot of those lug nuts they were at least to your torque point or past, which means there's a possibility they are unevenly tight. Always a better idea to barely snug them on and then take a torque wrench to them to ensure they are evenly tight.
@shakenfake Lean something new every day, I was thinking that change was made in 97. Explains why everyone goes for the 95 obd1 PCMs.
Going the 24x route with the 411 pcm would be the best way for sure. I currently have a 411 PCM with the votrech OS, only goes to 2 bar though. havent had the time to try it yet.
Going the 24x route with the 411 pcm would be the best way for sure. I currently have a 411 PCM with the votrech OS, only goes to 2 bar though. havent had the time to try it yet.
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 86
Likes: 7
From: St. Louis MO
Lt1 cars can be fully tuned with tunerpro for free. Strong speed works, pcm for less just to name a few still tune these cars. 93/94 cars are obd1 with the 12 pin connector. 95 is obd 1.5, its still obd 1 but has the 16 pin connector. 96+ is obviously obd2. There are some guys around running strokers that are netting pretty good times. Theres a lt1 only race in Indianapolis i believe, check some of the ET's 
My 416 makes 400 wtq at ~2,900 rpm and isn't cam'd for torque. It makes an excellent Impala SS torque curve.
If you can get a 4.125 bore block like an LS7 or sleeved 5.3/LS2/LS3 build a 440 etc
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Euless, TX
I wanted to stick with something easy to swap, built a strong running L31 based 383 and put 210cc Lloyd Elliot ported heads flowing nearly 300 cfm on it. 218/228 @ 0.050 on a 108 LSA cam with 1.7 roller rockers for 0.578 lift. Kept the Thorley tri-ys and dual 3" pipes to the muffler. Ported the heck out of the stock truck manifold and put an 80mm BBK throttle body and custom 4" air intake on it along with a 48 lb/hr spider. Using a P59 PCM with flex fuel compatibility with a base tuning segment from a 2005 Mexican L31 350 GMT800. Roughly 500 hp and matching torque being put into a 2,800 stalled 4L85E and 5.13 geared GM 10.5" 14 bolt. I actually set a 6.0L on the engine mounts and a LSA blower, but to get a lid on it, would have had to body lift it and the coils hit the tunnel. Turbo would have required a mid mount and electric scavenge pump or losing the a/c to front mount, neither an option for a tow vehicle in Texas. So I elected to stay Gen1E. LS swaps are honestly boring to me at this point and my 1999 Tahoe has an 8.1L rather than a 6.0L even though I had both engines. Wanted something that had good torque at low rpm, good manners and would still make good power up to 6,000-6,200 rpm shift points which the 383 delivers as well. With a dual 3" inlet single 4" outlet Walker Quietflow and 4" tailpipe it sounds nearly stock.
The old 350 with 906 Vortecs and the GM SPO 357 cam made 340 TQ @ 3,400 and 308 HP @ 5,500 through a 4L85E and 9.5" 14-bolt with a clutch fan in place.
The old 350 with 906 Vortecs and the GM SPO 357 cam made 340 TQ @ 3,400 and 308 HP @ 5,500 through a 4L85E and 9.5" 14-bolt with a clutch fan in place.
Last edited by Fast355; May 1, 2022 at 08:22 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Shlumpt, TX
I would want to be able to drive cross country no problem with this thing. It splits daily duties with my truck.
my vote is to stick with the lt1, but its all about personal preference. i daily drove my forged bottom end 383 for 6 years april-december and only had one opti failure and that was due to the water pump taking a crap. vented opti and a drain hose on the water pump weep hole and haven't had an issue since driving it in rain and one time in the snow by accident. i had the car tuned by Solomon (lt1pcmtuning) and the car has run flawlessly, he was great to work with and i will be again once i have the turbo and supporting mods completed and the car is back up and running. plenty of info on swapping to OBD1 to open up more tuning options out there, just have to do some digging. personally my car will always have an lt1 in it, the rarity especially in my area and the sound do it for me over another LS. i have other vehicles that will have LS's in them soon so nothing against them either. my .02
For simplicity I'd just build a 383 and be done with it. The one thing that makes the LS platform so appealing is that you can build bigger cubes with the same size block and they have better flowing cylinder heads than the LT1's. A naturally aspirated LSX454 engine on pump gas makes plenty of power and can live on the streets day in and day out.
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Tucker, GA
I have a car with an LS (2017 Chevrolet SS) and a car with the LT1 383 (my wagon). They're completely different animals and do just about everything differently. Personally, I like the LT engine in the b-body plaftorm partially because now it's rarer to see a built LT than it is an LS swap in these cars, and it's harder to build an LT for power correctly than it is an LS. So a fast LT - to me, anyway - gets way more respect than an LS swap. I'm going to be getting a new trans and dropping the gear to a 3.73 from a 3.42 and then I think the wag would take the SS in a straight line, too.
Don't let the opti fear ruin your day. They're not nearly the problem the internet makes them out to be. I've had 3 LT1 wagons and one opti failure in close to a decade. As much as I'd love to go T-x or Torqhead, the ROI isn't there for me - and I'm not exactly shy about pissing money away on superfluous stuff for this car. I put some dielectric grease on the opti o-ring and loctite-d the screws and that's really all it takes. It's been driven in frog-choking rain and snow without a problem. Now whenever I drive in the rain, it's the Suncoast hood sucking in water that gives me pause. Not the opti.
Don't let the opti fear ruin your day. They're not nearly the problem the internet makes them out to be. I've had 3 LT1 wagons and one opti failure in close to a decade. As much as I'd love to go T-x or Torqhead, the ROI isn't there for me - and I'm not exactly shy about pissing money away on superfluous stuff for this car. I put some dielectric grease on the opti o-ring and loctite-d the screws and that's really all it takes. It's been driven in frog-choking rain and snow without a problem. Now whenever I drive in the rain, it's the Suncoast hood sucking in water that gives me pause. Not the opti.
Last edited by atlantadan; Jun 8, 2022 at 05:30 AM.