I'm going to be helping a kid from a local car club install some LT's on his car next sat. and would like to hear what kind on problems we may run into on the install and some little tips you may have to help us out. Thanks guys!!!

 

Well i'll get a little more specifc. Will the LT's go in from the top?? If not how much clerance will we need under the car to get them in?? Any special/odd tools that we will need to help us. This will be the first time either of us has done a LT install so any info you have will be helpfull...... Thanks again

 

lts dont go from the top. i needed alot of room under the car for mine, not exactly how much but u need alot. make sure you disconnect the egr pipe on passenger side. thats all i have for now. if i remember anything else ill post it.

 

B-body LT's are fairly easy, but the worst part is the AC lines and diptick tube. The tube will have to be removed and modified (bent). The egr is best to be blocked off if a OBD1. OBD2 will have to be done through programming.
Ensure the front suspension is relaxed ( jacked up so wheel/spindle is hanging), remove wheels and inner rubber splash guards ( careful not to tear), Removing the wiper motor is a good idea but not necessary, it can be unbolted and turned up out of the way, the Alt will have to be taken off and ditch the rear bar that goes to the manifold bolt, it's not needed, the dipstick tube bolt is always a pain to get back in after making a few bends and it must be in there. The steering wheel shaft isn't necessary but will keep down the amount of uncommon language to a minimum. If it is OBD1, ditch the AIR junk if it hasn't already been done. If OBD2, same as egr deal. Other than that, the pass side is a real PITA. the access through the side will make a difference, Oh and have some long extensions and a strong universal joint.
OH!!!!! and plan on the rear pass side and front driver side manifold bolts breaking, I haven't seen one that hasn't, BUT don't worry about it, there's 2 holes like the old 7 hole chevy heads, you will use the inner bolt hole with the headers. Just hope they break off flush or in the hole, If not, you will have to remove, grind flush, or cut off flush.

EDIT= forgot to say that both go down into the eng bay but pass side takes some coersing but the car will have to high up so header can go straight down then turn back, It hits the floor if too low, and give you enough room to work. Invest in the Fel-pro gaskets ($18), cut the bottom of the end holes to be able to drop the gasket down onto the bolts. tighten, warm engine, then retighten to ensure no blown gaskets. If you use the paper or the cheap stuff that comes with any header kit, guaranteed blow after 1k miles.
Hope this helps.
Casey

 

SAPPER is right on with his instructions if using cheapy headers, there are better ones that go in easier, one set in particular goes in easier than the manifolds come out. Which headers did he get.

 

I'm not shure. I might refer him over here to answer any questions and to check out these kick *** install tips you guys have provided!!!! Thanks much fellas!!!

 

I'm on a couple of times everyday and will check your progress and questions

 

Thanks again kind sir.