4.10 or 4.56
#1
4.10 or 4.56
I realize alot of things factor in for this decision.
Bolt on only car, going for low 12's with a M6
Which gear will help 60ft?
I am trying not to bog like i am now with 3.42's
Which gear will help total quarter mile time?
I need the Et's to drop considerably.
Keep in mind i will only have around 320rwhp and i need to pull 1.6 60fts.
Any helpful info please, i know alot of people run the 4.10's so they will probably be more popular.
thanks Roadtrip
Bolt on only car, going for low 12's with a M6
Which gear will help 60ft?
I am trying not to bog like i am now with 3.42's
Which gear will help total quarter mile time?
I need the Et's to drop considerably.
Keep in mind i will only have around 320rwhp and i need to pull 1.6 60fts.
Any helpful info please, i know alot of people run the 4.10's so they will probably be more popular.
thanks Roadtrip
#4
4.11 vs. 4.56
With an otherwise stock motor, unless you want to shift into 5th before finishing the 1/4 mile, I wouldn't go higher than 4.11's. With 4.11's, 108mph comes up in 4th gear at 6500rpm (which, unless I'm mistaken, the stock LT1 computer can't rev that high); with 4.56's, 98mph comes up at 6500rpm. And the dude is right about your suspension - work on that first. A good suspension is just as important to '60 times as gearing. After that, get some sticky tires. To be quite honest, I wouldn't invest much $$$ in that 10 bolt - especially since you're an M6. Any traction you get is going to be taking years off its life.
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#10
why dont you just save the money and buy a complete 12 bolt and pick whatever gears you like...because ive got 5 bucks that says yourE* gonna need it anyway.
Last edited by 5432LT1; 10-24-2004 at 01:18 AM.
#11
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Originally Posted by 5432LT1
why dont you just save the money and buy a complete 12 bolt and pick whatever gears you like...because ive got 5 bucks that says your gonna need it anyway.
#13
with the little power you have, you can run 4.56's safely, even with a 6 spd tranny despite what many people think. with 4.11's or 4.56s, your gonna need to run an ET Street with the 6 spd and since you are gonna be running a taller tire, go with the 4.56's, your mph wont be affected as much with the taller tire so you can be relieved about that. your PCM can handle 6,800 or 7,200 rpm i think, cant remember which, but i might be mistaken, will have to look again tonight. suspension will be a big issue though. with those gears(4.11's or 4.56), you will get wheel hop because being an LT1, your shocks are old, torque arm is weak, and bushings probably on their last leg. if you plan on doing power mods later on, go with the 4.11's, but if you plan on staying with your current power levels and trying to run low #'s, you wont have any problems with a 4.56 gear breaking. wait till your about 375 rwhp before having to worry about breaking the 4.56's, and thats only if your still using the stock 10 bolt.
#14
Originally Posted by Gangly
. . . your PCM can handle 6,800 or 7,200 rpm i think, cant remember which . . .
#15
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I installed 4.11s in my T56 LS1 and they work well around town, and they make 6th gear much more useable. I wouldn't go any lower.
#16
Originally Posted by bickelfirebird
I installed 4.11s in my T56 LS1 and they work well around town, and they make 6th gear much more useable. I wouldn't go any lower.
#17
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Originally Posted by roadtrip120
I thought the 9" weigh alot? True they are stronger and i wont have problems. But i am low budget racing right now. 4.10's and a locker should work fine for now. I will up grade when she goes.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
12 bolt shipping weight is 191lbs
10 bolt is around 150-160
I guess 8lbs is alot
#18
I ran 4.33s in a 12 bolt during bolt on days with 26x11.5x16 ET streets and always did fairly well. Car had opti issues and fuel pump issues, so only trapped 102.xx, but i did manage 13.1 with those traps so the car was leaving hard.
On the ECM issues....
obd1 computers crash out if you hit 7k
obd2 computers will run past 7k, but how the tables are set up, you need to do some major tuning on the dyno to get them to run well up there.
On the ECM issues....
obd1 computers crash out if you hit 7k
obd2 computers will run past 7k, but how the tables are set up, you need to do some major tuning on the dyno to get them to run well up there.
#19
Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
9" shipping weight is 199lbs
12 bolt shipping weight is 191lbs
10 bolt is around 150-160
12 bolt shipping weight is 191lbs
10 bolt is around 150-160
Well 160 to 190 is a lot. Thats what i ment. I didn't know the weight of the rear ends.
Thanks for the info, might as well but the 9" .
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Originally Posted by roadtrip120
Well 160 to 190 is a lot. Thats what i ment. I didn't know the weight of the rear ends.
Thanks for the info, might as well but the 9" .
Thanks for the info, might as well but the 9" .
Not really, when you consider how much harder you can beat on a 9". Clutch dumps at 6k on slicks should make up for the difference