383 Stroker
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On The Tree
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383 Stroker 383 Stroker: (4-Bolt main caps block) rings-bearing-lifters-pushrods.... etc installed)
*Callies "Dragonslayer" Forged LT1/SBC Crankshaft 3.75" Stroke
*Callies Pro I-Beam LT1/SBC Forged Rod Set by Oliver 6.00" Length
*PISTON: SRP Forged Piston Set -5cc Valve Reliefs
4.030" bore x 3.75" stroke, for 6.00" Rod
Heads:
AFR 195cc LT4 CNC Ported Aluminum - 64 cc combustion chamber
Questions:
1- Crankshaft and Rods are good? Or Callies MAGNUM crank and Manley RODS are much better ,but necessary??
2- I will use 150-200 shot nitrous.. This is my daily car ,what do you suggest me for camshaft? Comp cam hydrollic Roller is my choice ,but which type?
ps: My transmission is auto - AFR 195cc heads -max lifts- >> 550''..
3- After all of these how much hp ??? (I hope 480-500)
The options which I chosed:
LT4 Intake Manifold
58 mm TB
Intake Manifold Gaskets
ARP Stainless Steel Intake Bolts
High Flow Fuel Injectors
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
High Flow Fuel Pump
PCM Reprograming 96-97 year model
GM Optispark Distributor 95-97 year model
Flywheel
Flexplate
Performance Stall Converter
ATI SFI Approved Hub and Damper
Borla Cat-back
SLP Ceramic Headers
thank you guys
*Callies "Dragonslayer" Forged LT1/SBC Crankshaft 3.75" Stroke
*Callies Pro I-Beam LT1/SBC Forged Rod Set by Oliver 6.00" Length
*PISTON: SRP Forged Piston Set -5cc Valve Reliefs
4.030" bore x 3.75" stroke, for 6.00" Rod
Heads:
AFR 195cc LT4 CNC Ported Aluminum - 64 cc combustion chamber
Questions:
1- Crankshaft and Rods are good? Or Callies MAGNUM crank and Manley RODS are much better ,but necessary??
2- I will use 150-200 shot nitrous.. This is my daily car ,what do you suggest me for camshaft? Comp cam hydrollic Roller is my choice ,but which type?
ps: My transmission is auto - AFR 195cc heads -max lifts- >> 550''..
3- After all of these how much hp ??? (I hope 480-500)
The options which I chosed:
LT4 Intake Manifold
58 mm TB
Intake Manifold Gaskets
ARP Stainless Steel Intake Bolts
High Flow Fuel Injectors
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
High Flow Fuel Pump
PCM Reprograming 96-97 year model
GM Optispark Distributor 95-97 year model
Flywheel
Flexplate
Performance Stall Converter
ATI SFI Approved Hub and Damper
Borla Cat-back
SLP Ceramic Headers
thank you guys
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 362
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1. Plenty sufficient for a 200 shot.
2. I would assume you would want something that works well N/A as well as with nitrous. I really hate to be such an adamant proponent of the new hotness of grinds but folks are having good nitrous results with the GM847 type grind and N/A performance is great as well. You'll definitely need a stall though, I have a 3200 which seems to work great with my GTP-6 and those extra cubes will tame that cam well. There are most likely better off the shelf grinds out there that would work better depending on your flow numbers, but the above are proven cams and your heads should be able to easily support the cam.
3. How much HP N/A? Really depends on the flow numbers, cam choice and tune. You should definitely be looking at the low to mid 400's....480-500 at the wheels is a little optomistic IMO. But with the shot you should be looking at a good bit over 600 to the wheels.
Don't forget, if you choose a large grind you're going to have to have the valvetrain to support it. Springs, lifters, pushrods.
2. I would assume you would want something that works well N/A as well as with nitrous. I really hate to be such an adamant proponent of the new hotness of grinds but folks are having good nitrous results with the GM847 type grind and N/A performance is great as well. You'll definitely need a stall though, I have a 3200 which seems to work great with my GTP-6 and those extra cubes will tame that cam well. There are most likely better off the shelf grinds out there that would work better depending on your flow numbers, but the above are proven cams and your heads should be able to easily support the cam.
3. How much HP N/A? Really depends on the flow numbers, cam choice and tune. You should definitely be looking at the low to mid 400's....480-500 at the wheels is a little optomistic IMO. But with the shot you should be looking at a good bit over 600 to the wheels.
Don't forget, if you choose a large grind you're going to have to have the valvetrain to support it. Springs, lifters, pushrods.
Your ideas and parts are good howwever I might think again about using the SRP pistons for the 200 shot.... They should be fine but i'd probably invest in a set of custom JE pistons... Your choice of a 6" rod is a very good one but prolonged nitrous use and the fact that with a 6" rod you are moving the wrist pin higher into the piston and the ring land might make me use a 5.85 rod or using a custom piston altogether.... However take this with a grain of salt cause with only a 200 shot you should be fine..... But the 200 extra dollars for a set of custom JE's might be worth it in the long run.....
On camshaft selection I have had very good luck with the Comp Cams hydraulic roller "Xtreme Energy" series and a specific cam, the 236/242 stick... With 1.6's you're looking at .556/.576 lift on a 112lsa.... It's a pretty nasty cam. Nice lope. Requires some tuning but nothing HUGE.... With almost the same exact combo you listed (Although I had a stock crank 355 with 6" eagle rods, SRP pistons and ported LT1 castings that don't flow as much as your 195cc AFR"s will) I made 422RWHP and 395 RWTQ..... Great numbers for such a basic combo..... I'd say however ditch the SLP headers and if emissions arent' an issue spring for a set of jet hot coated Hooker longtubes and maybe a good 4" catback from mufflex...... if you aren't making 400 at the wheels at least, somethign is wrong.... My .02....
Overall you've got a good plan..... If your car is around 3500 lbs with good tires and driver you're looking at easy 11.60-11.80s on motor..... At around 117-119.....
On camshaft selection I have had very good luck with the Comp Cams hydraulic roller "Xtreme Energy" series and a specific cam, the 236/242 stick... With 1.6's you're looking at .556/.576 lift on a 112lsa.... It's a pretty nasty cam. Nice lope. Requires some tuning but nothing HUGE.... With almost the same exact combo you listed (Although I had a stock crank 355 with 6" eagle rods, SRP pistons and ported LT1 castings that don't flow as much as your 195cc AFR"s will) I made 422RWHP and 395 RWTQ..... Great numbers for such a basic combo..... I'd say however ditch the SLP headers and if emissions arent' an issue spring for a set of jet hot coated Hooker longtubes and maybe a good 4" catback from mufflex...... if you aren't making 400 at the wheels at least, somethign is wrong.... My .02....
Overall you've got a good plan..... If your car is around 3500 lbs with good tires and driver you're looking at easy 11.60-11.80s on motor..... At around 117-119.....
I believe the lobe sep of 112 bleeds off a little of the increased cylinder pressure that the nitrous creates.... So the specific nitrous grinds usually run in the 114 to 116 range..... Less bleed off results in more power from the nitrous only.... however with the 112 you'll make more power all the time...
Even with a 112lsa cam I was picking up 1.3 seconds and 14 mph of trap speed with a 150 shot.... You'll also notice that i believe all the specific nitrous cams are not as big duration or lift wise than the xtreme energy series.... It all depends on what you're looking for... More power on tap all the time requires less juice to get where you're going (ET goals), or having an engine that idles better and is easier to live with on a daily basis but makes a little less power on the motor and needs a good hit of nitrous to light off..... Seeing as how you are going with 195cc AFR's i'd say go with a good cam to take advantage of the way better breathing those heads provide.... if you run a cam too small you might not need the AFR's and could get away with ported LT1 castings...... Since you want AFR's get a good stout cam....
As far as diamond pistons i have never used them so couldn't answer..... I know JE has a great reputation as one of the leaders in piston technology....
Even with a 112lsa cam I was picking up 1.3 seconds and 14 mph of trap speed with a 150 shot.... You'll also notice that i believe all the specific nitrous cams are not as big duration or lift wise than the xtreme energy series.... It all depends on what you're looking for... More power on tap all the time requires less juice to get where you're going (ET goals), or having an engine that idles better and is easier to live with on a daily basis but makes a little less power on the motor and needs a good hit of nitrous to light off..... Seeing as how you are going with 195cc AFR's i'd say go with a good cam to take advantage of the way better breathing those heads provide.... if you run a cam too small you might not need the AFR's and could get away with ported LT1 castings...... Since you want AFR's get a good stout cam....
As far as diamond pistons i have never used them so couldn't answer..... I know JE has a great reputation as one of the leaders in piston technology....
TECH Apprentice
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Actually SRP's are manufactured by JE. They will work fine for your application but you could also look for some Diamond, Ross, Probe, etc for somewhere near the same price.
In a nitrous cam you're generally going to want to find a good N/A cam for your application then widen up the LSA and add some duration on the exhaust. With N2O you really want added exhaust duration to help with the additional volume of exhaust gasses from the nitrous. You'll need to widen the LSA to reduce overlap with the larger exhaust duration.
In a nitrous cam you're generally going to want to find a good N/A cam for your application then widen up the LSA and add some duration on the exhaust. With N2O you really want added exhaust duration to help with the additional volume of exhaust gasses from the nitrous. You'll need to widen the LSA to reduce overlap with the larger exhaust duration.
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TECH Apprentice
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Oops...in addition. Nitrous grinds usually run in the 112-114 range, it's when you get into blower apps you'll see the 114-116. With nitrous you still want to see some overlap to help fill the cylinder since it isn't forced induction....whereas with FI, you'll want to reduce the overlap with LSA so you aren't blowing the charge right out of the exhaust.
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On The Tree
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Thank you so much for suggestions the last one: Can you give a size of the cam which is in your mind.. in/ex what sould be ? My 195cc AFR support max lift 550''.. For example 550''/576'' and 113 LSA is fine for 150-200 shot ???? .. (remember its my daily car)
the last one: Can you give a size of the cam which is in your mind.. in/ex what sould be ? My 195cc AFR support max lift 550''.. For example 550''/576'' and 113 LSA is fine for 150-200 shot ???? .. (remember its my daily car) TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2004
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I would say probably somewhere around 233/242. I am by NO MEANS close to an expert on cams....you should probably talk with Comp if you plan on getting one of their grinds and give them your flow #'s and setup details and I'm sure they will give you plenty of suggestions for an off the shelf grind.
That would probably be your best route. Or if you want to get the most out of your setup either get with Lloyd Elliot or Bret Bauer for a custom grind.
That would probably be your best route. Or if you want to get the most out of your setup either get with Lloyd Elliot or Bret Bauer for a custom grind.
Yeah I know SRP's are made by JE but the forgings of SRP's are well below that of a true JE top of the line piston.... All the engine builders i've talked to only trust SRP's to about a 150 shot or so..... Beyond that they like to use JE or Ross...
236/242 is a pretty mean cam.... Daily driver it might be a little too much.... maybe the 224/230 would be a better tradeoff..... It'd be more driveable... My 236/242 cam was rock solid once the engine warmed up but it was a pain in the *** getting it started on a super cold morning.....
236/242 is a pretty mean cam.... Daily driver it might be a little too much.... maybe the 224/230 would be a better tradeoff..... It'd be more driveable... My 236/242 cam was rock solid once the engine warmed up but it was a pain in the *** getting it started on a super cold morning.....
Ya, sounds like a pretty good setup..The 236/242 cam would fit nicely, maybe on a 114lsa. I think that would make it more nitrous friendly, and idle a BIT better for driveability..Depending on which cam you decide on,then choose your torque converter..
Or just get a custom grind, since you have AFR LT4's, which should flow nicely with some port work, and a matching LT4 intake..Just a thought.
Or just get a custom grind, since you have AFR LT4's, which should flow nicely with some port work, and a matching LT4 intake..Just a thought.
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On The Tree
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thank you guys.. at this link, http://www.cmotorsports.com/engine/l...ft-design.html I found many type of comp cams.. On the section of "for nitrous and supercharger canshafts" I chosed 230/242 duration, .544"/.576", 114lsa then I see on the top of the page is written "these cams lift with 1.6 rocker arms.." My rocker arms are 1.5..
What can you suggest me about this??
What can you suggest me about this??
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2004
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Get 1.6's.
Also...machining depends on the shop. Boring and clearancing can be anywhere from $300-$500+. If you have to have it balanced and assembled, that's going to run you even more.
If you have a reputable local shop I'd call and see if they've done 383 LT1's and if so, an approximate price they would charge on machine work and assembly. You can buy kits that are either balanced or not. Or you could just buy a pre-assembled shortblock and know the costs ahead of time.
Also...machining depends on the shop. Boring and clearancing can be anywhere from $300-$500+. If you have to have it balanced and assembled, that's going to run you even more.
If you have a reputable local shop I'd call and see if they've done 383 LT1's and if so, an approximate price they would charge on machine work and assembly. You can buy kits that are either balanced or not. Or you could just buy a pre-assembled shortblock and know the costs ahead of time.
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On The Tree
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Ok then I change the sets:
*Competition Cams Pro Magnum full roller rockers 1.60 Ratio
I got AFR 195cc Competiton Heads ,and the retainers are hardened steel ,and I will change to this;
*Titanium Retainers for ultimate RPM range
Also is it important to change exhaust valve seats?? (for 150 shot)
Is better if I chosed this one?
*Copper beryllium exhaust valve seats for nitrous
*Competition Cams Pro Magnum full roller rockers 1.60 Ratio
I got AFR 195cc Competiton Heads ,and the retainers are hardened steel ,and I will change to this;
*Titanium Retainers for ultimate RPM range
Also is it important to change exhaust valve seats?? (for 150 shot)
Is better if I chosed this one?
*Copper beryllium exhaust valve seats for nitrous
..So for the rocker arms: It will be Non-Self-Aligning or self-Aligning ??? 
