7100rpm
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Arlington TX
Because I can 
. Not really, anything you can do to keep a load on your turbo for longer is a good thing, especially raising the RPM's. That not only extends the amount of time that the turbo is loaded but increases everyhting else with it, amount of exhaust, amount of air/fuel mixture burned, etc. Plus it sounds good and if you can make power all the way up there, why not?
But anybody know what setup these people are using? I hear you can get pretty good numbers with the AFR Hydrarev kit but what about a solid roller cam? What are the negatives on a solid roller?
. Not really, anything you can do to keep a load on your turbo for longer is a good thing, especially raising the RPM's. That not only extends the amount of time that the turbo is loaded but increases everyhting else with it, amount of exhaust, amount of air/fuel mixture burned, etc. Plus it sounds good and if you can make power all the way up there, why not?But anybody know what setup these people are using? I hear you can get pretty good numbers with the AFR Hydrarev kit but what about a solid roller cam? What are the negatives on a solid roller?
11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: Amite, La
Sounds unnecessary to me, but to each their own.
First, I think you should have your rotating assembly balanced, go with some very good aftermarket valves, valve springs and roller rockers. DO NOT SPARE ANY COST HERE. Get a big cam that has 7100 rpm's in the sweet spot, not at the float limit.
Then get out there, spin some rpm's and blow it. Repeat the rebuild, then get out there and blow it up again. Repeat steps over and over......
First, I think you should have your rotating assembly balanced, go with some very good aftermarket valves, valve springs and roller rockers. DO NOT SPARE ANY COST HERE. Get a big cam that has 7100 rpm's in the sweet spot, not at the float limit.
Then get out there, spin some rpm's and blow it. Repeat the rebuild, then get out there and blow it up again. Repeat steps over and over......
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo
Let me give you the address to send the cash...... 
11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 895
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
well, I'm running a complete hydraulic setup in my 396 and have the rev limiter set at 7000. Everything is Comp Cams except for my Scorpion 1.7 roller rockers. The car makes great power, but the powerd begins to fall off at about 6750.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,288
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere between Auburn, AL and Columbus, GA
Originally Posted by timelord
Are you injected and running the stock PCM,if so you might have trouble spinning over 7000,I think that is where the tables run out!
I turn mine at 6950. Light valve train is the key, titanium retainers and locks goes along way not to mention valves. Just about anything that goes up and down needs to be lightened up. A good set of springs is a must to keep everything in contact.
one phrase NHRA stock eliminator, for the bottom end, a ballenced short block will suvive season after season of 7100 rpm passes, just build a valve train thats up to it, and BTW, they have opti's too.
I don't know anything about turbos but I always kinda assumed you wouldn't have to spin the engine too high with a turbo. I guess it depends on the size of the turbo you get.
Originally Posted by TurboZ28
What kind of valvetrain is it gonna take for me to get my LT1 spinning this fast? I plan to turbo it and I want to make my turbo happy.
I have a Comp Cams solid roller cam, lifters & their stainless rockers, with Kmotion K9000 springs. No problem going 7250/7300, but so far that is all I have so far gotten a stock PCM to go. I shift mine at 7200, and go through the lights about 7100. You need to use 7/16" ARP studs, or shaft rockers. I use 225 lbs on the seat, and a tad over 620 lbs open pressure. Have had no problems since I got away from the factory hydraulic stuff.
Good luck, Ed
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 362
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by TurboZ28
Because I can . Not really, anything you can do to keep a load on your turbo for longer is a good thing, especially raising the RPM's.
. Not really, anything you can do to keep a load on your turbo for longer is a good thing, especially raising the RPM's.Unlike a S/C a turbo will make peak boost and start to fall off as you push the turbo out of its efficiency range. Saying that the longer you have a load on a turbo, the longer you make HP isn't alltogether the case, nor is it good. When driving the turbo out of where it is more efficient, you are creating more heat which is transferred into the charge and the gains you are going to see may not be worth it IMO.
Building the valvetrain and bottom end to hold the extra RPM's plus the added tuning and/or management for the extra few hundred RPM's just wouldn't be worth it unless you plan on having a big top end monster that is going to need every extra RPM you can give it.
From what you are saying, you don't want a top end turbo so why the extra money and hassles to build a setup that will spin to 7100 as opposed to 6600? You may want to decide on a turbo, check out the turbo map and see where you are going to start running into efficiency problems and work the setup around that.
I just don't think a few hundred RPM's are going to justify the costs.
