Bought my new engine today!!
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On The Tree
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Bought my new engine today!! I called up Chad Golen at golen engine service today and ordered their 383 long block package!!! The engine should make over 400 horspower when i am done with it. If anyone wants to buy a engine, they have excellent customer service!! They have been backed up with orders so my E.T.A. on the engine is somewhere around July 1st so hopefully i will have the car up and running by august 1st. I cant wait. 
Why did u decide to go with Golen?? Not for a bad reason, but I was thinking about building a 383 and I don't know if it would be better/cheaper to get one from them or build it myself. I want to put my own heads and cam and it but a shortblock would be nice.
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On The Tree
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Well the long block 383 is $4,499.00 but in order to make the 400 horse advertised you need a 52 mm throttle body, 30 lb. injectors, headers and full exhaust, and a fuel pressure regulator so thats extra money plus i opted for dynamic balancing which i feel is the most important thing you can do and of course you need a tune. I live in washington state so the shipping cost to me was $400.00! You do the install yourself but chad will help you along the way, he has excellent service and you can call him personally anytime. For the price im sure you could build one cheaper, however Golen has a lifetime warranty on their engines which is something i dont think anyone else does or has ever offered! I am willing to pay a little more for something i know is done right and will be fixed if i ever have any problems.
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On The Tree
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400 bhp not at the wheels, the cam is not very big, its a 220 230, 510 510 114. I cant afford right now to go bigger cause if i break my rear end i am screwed i am not made of money. But its still 125 more horsepower and like 150 more pounds of torque over the stock engine and i will take that anyday. This is just a fun street/everyday car, not a drag car. But once i get more money im sure this engine has potential for tons more power with a bigger cam and more head work. The heads right on it will have a three angle valve job and bowl ported with 1.5 rr's.
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Humm not trying to argue or be a jerk but that would have you at 340hp to the wheels with a conservative 15% drivetrain loss. Not sure if you already knew that but just thought I would throw it out there.
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From: St. Peters, MO
Well if this were my car....I would not got the 52mm throttle body, just port yours with a dremel or get a machine shop to do it...lots cheaper. You don't really need the injectors either unless you were pushing lots more power. I would take the money I saved on those items, sell that cam, buy a gm847 cam, which is $209, and make close to 400rwhp. You may need springs...not sure. That would be a lot better. As far as breaking the rear end, its not gonna happen unless you A. put 4.10s in there where your ring and pinion is more suceptible to break, B. put a sticky tire under there, which would be hell with a 6spd, or C. somehow actually hook up. But that cam is way small and I think you will be disappointed without a cam swap. Just my .02.
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From: St. Peters, MO
Originally Posted by 97blkz
Humm not trying to argue or be a jerk but that would have you at 340hp to the wheels with a conservative 15% drivetrain loss. Not sure if you already knew that but just thought I would throw it out there.
Jordan i believe the term perritic loss(spelling) is what we talking about. In an f-body the drive train loss (got this from scott settlemire gm bigwig) is about 17% on average. So you take your hp & tq numbers and then do the math. Add in big stalls and and a chunky rear end with more whieght to move and I assume it would get worse. I know we have some more technical people than me on here hopefully they will chime in. Sorry if I upset you this was not my goal.
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From: St. Peters, MO
Originally Posted by 97blkz
Jordan i believe the term perritic loss(spelling) is what we talking about. In an f-body the drive train loss (got this from scott settlemire gm bigwig) is about 17% on average. So you take your hp & tq numbers and then do the math. Add in big stalls and and a chunky rear end with more whieght to move and I assume it would get worse. I know we have some more technical people than me on here hopefully they will chime in. Sorry if I upset you this was not my goal.
From what I have read & dicussed with more intelligent people in this field than me is that that % remains a constant. It will increase as we both know with stalls/rearends and even big heavy nast tires.
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From: St. Peters, MO
Yeah, I guess what I want to see is a car chassis dynoed. Then that motor pulled and dynoed on an engine dyno. Then put a blower, or N20 on that motor. Engine dyno it. Then reinstall it with no changes to the drivetrain at all, and dyno it on a chassis dyno. That way you could figure out the percentage loss, or see if its just an arbitrary number....ie certain amount of HP...sorry guys.. 
seems like if one had a lightened clutch, flywheel, and driveshaft, they'd see a decrease in hp loss. There are a lot of variables--too many to ever tack on a general "percentage horsepower lost."
