396 LT4 Build/Buy
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 297
Likes: 1
From: Rochester, NY
396 LT4 Build/Buy Ok well i was planning on doing the LE2 heads and cam package for my car but was just hired full time and my job is paying for college so i started to rethink what i want to do. I would like to build a 396 stroker short block for my car. I plan on running an LE2 cam for nitrous and LE3 LT4 heads on top of it with a ported LT4 intake set up for a direct port 150-200 shot. But now im stuck on the short block. I dont know if i should buy an 4 bolt main out of an LT1 vette and have it machined and collect the parts for it or buy an already assembled 396 stroker short block from somewhere. I want this engine to be able to handle a 200hp shot so i would like opinions on what parts i should buy if i were to assemble my own or what assembled short blocks are out there that would fit what im looking for. I would like to keep the cost of the short block around $3000 but i dont wnat it to fall apart when i spray. Any input would be appreciated.
Originally Posted by scotts94_z28
Ok well i was planning on doing the LE2 heads and cam package for my car but was just hired full time and my job is paying for college so i started to rethink what i want to do. I would like to build a 396 stroker short block for my car. I plan on running an LE2 cam for nitrous and LE3 LT4 heads on top of it with a ported LT4 intake set up for a direct port 150-200 shot. But now im stuck on the short block. I dont know if i should buy an 4 bolt main out of an LT1 vette and have it machined and collect the parts for it or buy an already assembled 396 stroker short block from somewhere. I want this engine to be able to handle a 200hp shot so i would like opinions on what parts i should buy if i were to assemble my own or what assembled short blocks are out there that would fit what im looking for. I would like to keep the cost of the short block around $3000 but i dont wnat it to fall apart when i spray. Any input would be appreciated.
). You can use your block and purchase some splayed 4 bolt mains. I think they run about $80. You can get a machine shop to machine the block for them. There are plenty of forged 396 stroker kits around for about $1500. Figure in between $800-1500 in labor depending on the shop. What are your goals with the car and what all mods do you have now? If your sig is updated then you need to ditch the Granetelli MAF sensor, Hypertech programer, nittos, and pacesetter armor coated shorty headers. Also you really need a GOOD stall(yank or vig) and some gear(probably 3.42's or 3.73's with a 28" tire).
The le3 package(meaning stock ported heads and the bret bauer cam) should be good enough to push you to a 11.20 at 120+mph on a forged 355(extra cubes are pointless IMO...well not so much pointless, but not worth the money) IF you have the right setup(stall/gear/suspension/tune).
Good luck building a 396 for $3,000, shortblocks aren't cheap and people don't realize how quickly it all adds up.
I'd say get a forged eagle crank, forged H beam rods, ross or diamond or je pistons, 4 bolt main vette block will be fine, get some GOOD rings, arp rod bolts, arp main studs, clevite bearings, and figure about $400-700 for machine work including balancing. Also you should probably go with arp head studs.
The le3 package(meaning stock ported heads and the bret bauer cam) should be good enough to push you to a 11.20 at 120+mph on a forged 355(extra cubes are pointless IMO...well not so much pointless, but not worth the money) IF you have the right setup(stall/gear/suspension/tune).
Good luck building a 396 for $3,000, shortblocks aren't cheap and people don't realize how quickly it all adds up.
I'd say get a forged eagle crank, forged H beam rods, ross or diamond or je pistons, 4 bolt main vette block will be fine, get some GOOD rings, arp rod bolts, arp main studs, clevite bearings, and figure about $400-700 for machine work including balancing. Also you should probably go with arp head studs.
Originally Posted by skinnies
What are your goals with the car and what all mods do you have now? If your sig is updated then you need to ditch the Granetelli MAF sensor, Hypertech programer, nittos, and pacesetter armor coated shorty headers. Also you really need a GOOD stall(yank or vig) and some gear(probably 3.42's or 3.73's with a 28" tire).
The le3 package(meaning stock ported heads and the bret bauer cam) should be good enough to push you to a 11.20 at 120+mph on a forged 355(extra cubes are pointless IMO...well not so much pointless, but not worth the money) IF you have the right setup(stall/gear/suspension/tune).
Good luck building a 396 for $3,000, shortblocks aren't cheap and people don't realize how quickly it all adds up.
I'd say get a forged eagle crank, forged H beam rods, ross or diamond or je pistons, 4 bolt main vette block will be fine, get some GOOD rings, arp rod bolts, arp main studs, clevite bearings, and figure about $400-700 for machine work including balancing. Also you should probably go with arp head studs.
The le3 package(meaning stock ported heads and the bret bauer cam) should be good enough to push you to a 11.20 at 120+mph on a forged 355(extra cubes are pointless IMO...well not so much pointless, but not worth the money) IF you have the right setup(stall/gear/suspension/tune).
Good luck building a 396 for $3,000, shortblocks aren't cheap and people don't realize how quickly it all adds up.
I'd say get a forged eagle crank, forged H beam rods, ross or diamond or je pistons, 4 bolt main vette block will be fine, get some GOOD rings, arp rod bolts, arp main studs, clevite bearings, and figure about $400-700 for machine work including balancing. Also you should probably go with arp head studs.
Here are some fully assembled for that price. If you buy a stroker kit, splayed mains for around $1500, add $1500 for machining and assembly, and $3000 for a 396 short block is a reality.
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 297
Likes: 1
From: Rochester, NY
Sorry the sig wasnt updated but it is now. This car is going to be a daily driver in the summer months. This car is going to be pretty much stripped when the build is done thats why im building an engine so i can drive the car the way it is now for the rest of the summer then swap in a pretty much whole new drivetrain and sell everything I have now except for the suspension stuff and wheels. Im going to be going with the Horsepower engineering 396 short block with an LE2 cam that will work well on nitrous and LT4 heads ported to LE3 specs and a ported LT4 intake with direct port plumming. Behind this will be a built 4l60e and a vig 3500 converter. Then a nitrous drive shaft to a 12 bolt with 3.42's. The suspension will be the bmr sfc, lca + relo's, adj torque arm, adj phr, and hotchkis 1" drop springs with billenstien shocks. I will still be running the 275 nitto dr's in back and 555;s up front since it may see rain. As for the bolt ons it will be keeping the K&N FIPK and the rest will be new stuff. I'll be putting on a vortech elbow, arizona speed and marine 58mm tb, Kooks 1 7/8 long tubes and y pipe. I am still undecided on the cat back since I dont want it to loud and was considering the gmmg or some other options. I still dont know what to do about the oil pan and pump or the fuel system.
So i pretty much need help deciding on:
Injectors
fuel pump
catback
oil pump
oil pan
ignition
transmition
and anything else i may be forgetting
So i pretty much need help deciding on:
Injectors
fuel pump
catback
oil pump
oil pan
ignition
transmition
and anything else i may be forgetting
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