Headers or Subframe Connectors?
Headers or Subframe Connectors? Ok, my birthday is coming up, and I have $250 dollars to spend on a birthday present from my Grandparents... now I can't really get the headers I want for $250, but I can get BMR Tubular Subframe Connectors, and save up for the Hooker LT's and buy them myself. But I'm also getting a Hooker Catback from my Mom... so, should I just suck it up and go with crappy headers, or install the catback and worry about headers later?
Also, the subframe connectors are weld-in, I'm pretty good at MIG and TIG welding but I would rather have a professional do it. Any estimates on how much it would cost to have someone weld them in? And any pics of what they will look like?
Also, the subframe connectors are weld-in, I'm pretty good at MIG and TIG welding but I would rather have a professional do it. Any estimates on how much it would cost to have someone weld them in? And any pics of what they will look like?
I spent a 100$ on mine from HPE, its worth the money, I have had friends skimp out and get it done cheap, or them selves, they end up messing things up. Worth it to know its being done right the first time.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 586
Likes: 0
From: Tinley Park
I would presonally get the subframe connectors. Great if you have a car with no roof support (t-tops) and will also prevent the "F body dent" on the rear quarter panel that everyone gets from felx.
I paid $70 to have them installed by speed inc. Better then some 'Joe shmoe' to becuase I know they do it right (pull the seats and carpet etc.)
Just my .02
I paid $70 to have them installed by speed inc. Better then some 'Joe shmoe' to becuase I know they do it right (pull the seats and carpet etc.)
Just my .02
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
From: Gulfport, MS
I wouldn't go with headers unless you can afford to buy the coated ones. So just spend that cash on the SFC's. I spent $150 on the sfc's (BMR Tubular weld in, group buy) and $40 for the install.
Yeah I think I'm gonna go with the SFC's... but would it be easier to just buy bolt ins, if I use locking bolts maybe? Then I wouldn't have to have someone install them, because I highly doubt there is anyone around here who will do a good job.
Trending Topics
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 3
From: NYC metro area
First thing's first... get the SFCs.
Weld-ins will provide much more structural stability than bolt-ons. Get the weld-ins and have a mechanic weld them in for you. It isn't a hard job.
Weld-ins will provide much more structural stability than bolt-ons. Get the weld-ins and have a mechanic weld them in for you. It isn't a hard job.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Yep, that sounds like a plan... I'm gonna try and find someone who can do a good job, off to the phonebook I go. I'm hoping SFC's will help my car hook a little better, or atleast make the ride less ruff.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 3
From: NYC metro area
Originally Posted by Renegade
Yep, that sounds like a plan... I'm gonna try and find someone who can do a good job, off to the phonebook I go. I'm hoping SFC's will help my car hook a little better, or atleast make the ride less ruff.
Yep, after the SFC's I will have my Hooker Exhaust on... then I will save up for some Hooker LT's and Y-Pipe. And go from there, maybe a BMR Trak Pak and Lower Control Arms, Eibach Springs? Then do my Heads/Cam package, Fuddle Stall and PCM For Less and I should be running low 12's.
A set of Hookers is I believe around 400 bucks and near 600 for Ceramic coating, which is worth the money. Plus about 100 bucks for a Y-Pipe etc. Sometimes you can catch deals, and Pacesetter makes pretty good LT's as well. But depending on how much you have to spend go with Hooker over Pacesetter, and Kooks and QTP over everything else if you have about a grand to spend. Go to Summit and check out some sponsers... there might be a group purchase sometime too.
Originally Posted by Vendetta
First thing's first... get the SFCs.
Weld-ins will provide much more structural stability than bolt-ons. Get the weld-ins and have a mechanic weld them in for you. It isn't a hard job.
Weld-ins will provide much more structural stability than bolt-ons. Get the weld-ins and have a mechanic weld them in for you. It isn't a hard job.
Where exactly are you getting 400hp from?? The thing people often neglect is suspension. Suspension ois key component to reliable, useable horsepower. What is the point, like you said, to have 400 horses and waste them on spinning your tires. I am in the minority it seems when it comes to these cars..i have no built my car to go straight fast. I built mine to handle, and to be fast. My car does pretty well on the strip, but it's on the road course that it excells. It all depends on what kind of use you want out of your car. If it's a daily driver there's no sense in buying the best of the best suspension compnents because you'll never utalize them. Shocks and springs from say QA1 are meant for purposes other than just driving around. A stiffer suspension is uncomfortable for a daily driven car...You need to figure out what kind of drving you're going to do, and then start building the base of your care accordingly. Start with the subframe connectors to prolong the experience of your car, then do the shocks/springs, and all the rest. Remember, suspension is key, and most important to going fast, and using every last horsepower...
Hawk
Hawk
Thanks for the advice Hawk, I get what your saying. I'm saying 400HP if I ended up doing a Heads/Cam package. But after I'm done with bolts ons we will see what I'm running. I will probably take your advice and just build the suspension a peice at a time, it's my daily driver for now, not a strip car. I just want to be able to hook up when I'am at the track, I'm sure a stall and drag radials would help quite a bit. SFC's, Shocks + Springs, and LCA's would probably be enough suspension parts to improve handling and traction, I will be doing SFC's, then Headers. Then probably springs and go from there. If I decide to leave the car alone from there I will probably do a hotcam and stall and be done with it. But if I can find a higher paying job (which I'm hoping for) I might be able to afford a good daily driver that's good on gas, and do heads/cam on my Z then go allout on the suspension when I know it will be needed. Right now I'm just figuring out my goals and seeing where it takes me, feel free to throw out any other suggestions you might have.
