Head coolant line
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Head coolant line I was wondering if there is anyway to use a non-LT1 radiator with an LT1 that does not have the extra fitting/hose that runs to the heads.
Most of the V8 swap radiators I find have the two large coolant hose hookups, and the 2 smaller tranny hookups, but no place for the 3rd small coolant hose.
Anyone have any suggestions?
You can see the line running just above the valve cover, then running behind the alternator, then disappears behind the p/s reservoir and you can see the fitting going into the radiator tank.
Almost looks like i could T in right by the water pump. You can see the bleeder valve there. I bet I could pull that bleeder valve out and buy a fitting that would thread into there and allow the rubber hose to be clamped on. I'd have to undo the clamp to bleed it, but i don't see that being a real problem - assuming what air is left in the tubeing above the head will work it's way out. I assume so since there is no bleeder for it in the current setup.
Would a radiator shop be able to weld in a fitting (it's an aluminum radiator)? Any idea of cost?
Does anyone know if these ideas would work correctly? It would make it alot easier for anyone trying to do an LT1 swap into any vehicle to just do that rather than finding a certain radiator. Also would clean up the front of the engine a bit by getting rid of another hose.
Most of the V8 swap radiators I find have the two large coolant hose hookups, and the 2 smaller tranny hookups, but no place for the 3rd small coolant hose.
Anyone have any suggestions?
You can see the line running just above the valve cover, then running behind the alternator, then disappears behind the p/s reservoir and you can see the fitting going into the radiator tank.
Almost looks like i could T in right by the water pump. You can see the bleeder valve there. I bet I could pull that bleeder valve out and buy a fitting that would thread into there and allow the rubber hose to be clamped on. I'd have to undo the clamp to bleed it, but i don't see that being a real problem - assuming what air is left in the tubeing above the head will work it's way out. I assume so since there is no bleeder for it in the current setup.
Would a radiator shop be able to weld in a fitting (it's an aluminum radiator)? Any idea of cost?
Does anyone know if these ideas would work correctly? It would make it alot easier for anyone trying to do an LT1 swap into any vehicle to just do that rather than finding a certain radiator. Also would clean up the front of the engine a bit by getting rid of another hose.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Anna, OH
I got a new LT1 radiator off eBAY for $100. I had a V6 radiator put in by the previous owner and didn't want to risk warping the heads. Some guys have done some crazy things with these motors, but it doesn't seem like many mess with the steam lines on the heads--too risky with the reverse flow cooling system, I guess.
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Do these lines need to vent to the radiator tanks inorder to have the steam vented out of the system?
BTW, this LT1 is in an S10, which is the reason for needing an aftermarket radiator. The aluminum swap radiator that I am dealing with fits directly inside the core support without any cutting (unlike my old one which is pictured).
BTW, this LT1 is in an S10, which is the reason for needing an aftermarket radiator. The aluminum swap radiator that I am dealing with fits directly inside the core support without any cutting (unlike my old one which is pictured).
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Awesome. For some reason I never thought to check them.
For anyone else, here is the direct link...
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...rass-Tees.html
Well, in my research I have found one person that gave this as a reason not to do it that way...
"WP pressure would be forced up the small line trapping any air,instead of allowing it to get out..When it is attached to the rad it is free flow."
Then he says it might work, but basically, that it's not the way GM designed it.
For anyone else, here is the direct link...
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...rass-Tees.html
Well, in my research I have found one person that gave this as a reason not to do it that way...
"WP pressure would be forced up the small line trapping any air,instead of allowing it to get out..When it is attached to the rad it is free flow."
Then he says it might work, but basically, that it's not the way GM designed it.
Last edited by chevy42083; Aug 21, 2005 at 09:45 PM.
