LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Need .8 seconds in 1/4, What mods are next?

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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 08:09 PM
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Default Need .8 seconds in 1/4, What mods are next?

Got at best of 13.699 @ 96.73 with 1.8 60ft. What mods do I need now to get in the 12s?

Lets not consider Spray or Boost right now. Any other bolt-ons?
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 08:17 PM
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cam , electric water pump , headers
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 08:18 PM
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LTs and get rid of the BLOWmaster. Larger than stock TB may help but not much....suspension work is definately in your best interest. no reason to make more power if you can't put it to the ground.........otherwise, you are nearly maxed out on bolt-ons...maybe pullies, or 1.6 RR. also, throw in a lil weight reduction while your at it.
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 08:20 PM
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LT1 says it right.............screw flowmaster, and get some other goodies, i would say LTs and duals
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 08:22 PM
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96 lt-1 Which cam?

The LT1 that could- Do you think LTs and a cutout?
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 09:18 PM
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Longtubes and a real exhaust should get you there.
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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Cutouts are nice, but reall true duals give you the flow and the backpressure yo uneed.
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteSSP
Longtubes and a real exhaust should get you there.
Amen.....ditch the flowmaster get real exhuast (personaly I'd recomend Borla if you have the money and SLP Loudmouth if you don't) and some headers and you'll get where you want to be.
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 08:31 AM
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LTs and an X Pipe (True Dual) System. They are almost as cheap to fab up as aftermarket catbacks, have a much better sound, and yield much better results.

A cam isn't really considered a bolt on, so i wouldn't even think about doing a cam, until you have at least LTs.
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 08:45 AM
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I say bigger stall to! I went the stall route once and figured out anything below 3000 is USELESS! and wat converter are u currently running? a GOOD converter can make a world of difference
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Carbed4thGen
anything below 3000 is USELESS!
It depends on the application and supporting parts. Just because it was useless for you doens't mean it is for everyone's setup.

For a stock cam 2800 is perfectly reasonable and probably a good choice.
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by infinitebird
It depends on the application and supporting parts. Just because it was useless for you doens't mean it is for everyone's setup.

For a stock cam 2800 is perfectly reasonable and probably a good choice.
couldn't have said it better myself. Having a converter that is setup for your specific application is the best thing to do. My TCI SSF-3800 is going too be way too much converter for my N/A setup, but on the spray, it will rock nuts! I think the 2800 he has will be just fine until he starts making some more power, then he should send it off for a restall.
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 05:14 PM
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Headers,Torque Arm,1.6RR's and remove the front sway bar.

That should get you there.

BTW you only need .7 LOL
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 05:26 PM
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I thought about removing my front sway bar, how is that for the street? What kind of gains for the strip would I see w/o it? Sub frames, LCA's, a K-member, torque arm, would be EXCELLENT mods. How hard is it to take the sway bar out?
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 07:02 PM
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LT's and exahust should get you in the high 12's. Nice 60'. thats the hard part..just unchoke the car and you should be there.
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 07:08 PM
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Just buy new endlinks for it and back the nuts off at the track to allow the front end to rise.

Then tighten them back down for the trip home.

Handling would be poor on hard cornering or aggressive street driving without it.

If your running front skinnies on the street it wouldn't make much difference though.
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 07:12 PM
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I don't corner hard at all. How much are endlinks? I plan on having it out fully, not just for the track.
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 07:19 PM
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If your gonna take it out just forget the endlinks...I have mine out, but havn't ran the car at the track since I put my cam in. No tire and traction right now is a big issue.
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by blind527
I don't corner hard at all. How much are endlinks? I plan on having it out fully, not just for the track.
The end links are like $20 with the poly bushings. I took my swaybar off for a track day a couple years ago and it hasnt been back on the car yet. My car is lowered and to be completly honest, I couldnt tell that much of a difference. Ive driven cars that I could tell a difference with and without it and the only thing that I can think of is that being lowered has something to do with it. Lower center of gravity or something, who knows? I drive on my skinnies all the time anyways so I gotta take corners like an old fart no matter what, haha. Also, like slowmofo said, if youre gonna take the swaybar completly out, dont worry about buying new endlinks. Doesnt make much sence to have new endlinks on a swaybar thats sitting in the garage.
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by brandboZ28
The end links are like $20 with the poly bushings. I took my swaybar off for a track day a couple years ago and it hasnt been back on the car yet. My car is lowered and to be completly honest, I couldnt tell that much of a difference. Ive driven cars that I could tell a difference with and without it and the only thing that I can think of is that being lowered has something to do with it. Lower center of gravity or something, who knows? I drive on my skinnies all the time anyways so I gotta take corners like an old fart no matter what, haha. Also, like slowmofo said, if youre gonna take the swaybar completly out, dont worry about buying new endlinks. Doesnt make much sence to have new endlinks on a swaybar thats sitting in the garage.
I think I'll take it off. I don't drive like an *** around corners though, so I should be fine. I heard that going off ramps sucks *****, and that it bobs a lot. I do have traction problems, so hopefully this will help.
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