LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Performance Rebuild Kit

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Old 11-06-2005, 08:07 PM
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Default Performance Rebuild Kit

Does Anybody Know Where I Can Get A Performance Rebuild Kit With Good Pistons , Rods Etc.?or Should I Do A 383 Stroker Rebuild With A Eagle Kit From Summit Racing Or A Kit From Ebay? Looking To Spend Up To $4,000.00
Old 11-06-2005, 08:46 PM
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The topend to support a stroker is going to run you an easy $1500 and that is a very low figure. The shortblock parts even if you go budget are going to be an easy $800 without gaskets or machining assembly will easily put you over budget because I am guessing ou won't be doing it yourself. Might consider going all out on a set of heads to bolt onto the current motor to enjoy while you let the budget recoup and do the stroker later just make sure whatever you do for heads now will be up to that task.

In theory you might be able to get this accomplished for $4K BUT reality is something will go wrong along the way and your car will end up sitting while you come up with the money it will take to correct whatever suprize shows up.
Old 11-06-2005, 08:52 PM
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What About A Rebuild With Performance Pistons,rods,etc.?? How Much Would That Rebuild Run?and Is There Any Good Rebuild Kits Or Is It Better 2 Buy Everything Seperate ? What Bottom End Parts Would I Need For A Performance Rebuild?
Old 11-06-2005, 09:07 PM
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Unless you have a specific reason to believe your engine needs rebuilding I would leave it alone. The stock bottomend it very good for a production engine the weakest link being bearings followed by pistons. The bearings should be fine provided you keep it lubed and the pistons will be fine as long as you don't detonate it. The crank and rods are very strong GMPP sells the rods as good to 450hp which is on the conservative side the crank will take even more than the rods will.
Miles are not the problem they once were due to injection, better materilas and machinging. I know it sounds odd that injection would play a part but the better fuel control means less cylinder washdown during warmup and less fuel dilution form the same as well as a cleaner engine so there is less carbon and such to cause wear.
Old 11-06-2005, 09:09 PM
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I would get an AWESOME set of heads and a good cam and good exhaust(long tubes) , great stall converter and enjoy!




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