383 build questions
383 build questions Okay, so I was at a car show talking to a engine shop about building me a 383 stroker. So heres what he would do
400 crank
.30 bore
forged internals
nice cam
milled/ported stock heads
valve train
balanced and blueprinted, he said that would push right around the 2000 dollar mark, uninstalled, not re installed, just me taking my motor to him.
Im not going to do this untill I have a nice 12 bolt under there, along with a rebuilt tranny, and new clutch, so im looking at dumping about 5 grand in my car withn the next year...
400 crank
.30 bore
forged internals
nice cam
milled/ported stock heads
valve train
balanced and blueprinted, he said that would push right around the 2000 dollar mark, uninstalled, not re installed, just me taking my motor to him.
Im not going to do this untill I have a nice 12 bolt under there, along with a rebuilt tranny, and new clutch, so im looking at dumping about 5 grand in my car withn the next year...
He must be using some garbage parts if he's going to do all that for 2000 dollars.... Well then again you said uninstalled.... you can tack at least a grand onto that for the machine work and assembly for those parts.....
To do a stroker the right way I'd look at spending about 5000 at least... That will avoid the money you will ALWAYS not be expecting to spend. During a motor build things just happen that you didn't plan for financially. Diff length pushrods, these bearings vs those bearings,.... all the crap adds up. gaskets, seals, oil, etc... expect to add about 30% to whatever you figured it would run you... a good rule of thumb... but good luck on it....
wish i coudl have built mine for 2000...
To do a stroker the right way I'd look at spending about 5000 at least... That will avoid the money you will ALWAYS not be expecting to spend. During a motor build things just happen that you didn't plan for financially. Diff length pushrods, these bearings vs those bearings,.... all the crap adds up. gaskets, seals, oil, etc... expect to add about 30% to whatever you figured it would run you... a good rule of thumb... but good luck on it....
wish i coudl have built mine for 2000...
Unless he is a hell of a close friend that is WAY too cheap. A lot of us here spend $1100-2000+ on just heads/cam/springs. Either he is leaving something out of the "estimate" or they do really shotty work.
400 crank is also the wrong way to go about it. He might have just said that for simplicity sake but you should use a dedicated stroker crank that has the 400 stroke length but is meant to fit the one piece rear main block with 350 main journal size.
A CHEAP 383 crank is $180+, then even stock rods will need at least $150 in work or replacement at more like $250+, $400+ for forged pistons, $60+ for a timing set, $200+ for a cam, $100+ for springs, $150+ lifters. Will need balancing which is more$$$$, haven't even gotten into machining costs, bearing costs, gaskets. Golen a shop most here will agree is good without being grossly overpriced is about $2600 for a SHORTBLOCK.
400 crank is also the wrong way to go about it. He might have just said that for simplicity sake but you should use a dedicated stroker crank that has the 400 stroke length but is meant to fit the one piece rear main block with 350 main journal size.
A CHEAP 383 crank is $180+, then even stock rods will need at least $150 in work or replacement at more like $250+, $400+ for forged pistons, $60+ for a timing set, $200+ for a cam, $100+ for springs, $150+ lifters. Will need balancing which is more$$$$, haven't even gotten into machining costs, bearing costs, gaskets. Golen a shop most here will agree is good without being grossly overpriced is about $2600 for a SHORTBLOCK.
Okay, so heres how the convo went down. I walked up and asked him about a cam, $$ wise. And then he told me right. So I asked him how important would heads be then. He said that since your in their already, you might as well pull the heads, and he can machine them, giving me more compression ratio, and port/polish them. I then told him about my miles. He said with that many miles on a motor, He wouldn't put a lot on top without putting some in the bottom. He said he could recondition all my stock parts, and put a nice cam, valve train, and work my heads, along with doing the smallest bore possible to re-do the walls, would be about 1200~1500. I then asked him about a 400 crank and a .30 over bore, and he said "ah wanna go 383 right? those are very popular with my clients." and he told me with all that, I would be pushing the 2000 dollar mark, and maybe a bit over depending on any "suprises"
Now, I used to be related to him, hes my half sisters, ex husbands brother. And I am no where near concernd about his workmanship. We have a 2 or 3 big local dirt track's, and the guy and a nother guy build just about EVERY motor in any of the winning cars. Hes got so many recomendations its crazy...
the price would be for me taking my motor in, him having it for however long, and me rolling it out on a stand, with a free engine dyno. I would have to have the motor uninstalled and reinstalled somewhere localy, or maybe they do installs there, IDK.
Now, I used to be related to him, hes my half sisters, ex husbands brother. And I am no where near concernd about his workmanship. We have a 2 or 3 big local dirt track's, and the guy and a nother guy build just about EVERY motor in any of the winning cars. Hes got so many recomendations its crazy...
the price would be for me taking my motor in, him having it for however long, and me rolling it out on a stand, with a free engine dyno. I would have to have the motor uninstalled and reinstalled somewhere localy, or maybe they do installs there, IDK.
