any free mods
94 was the first year to have a MAF and do not bother descreening it, at best you will see a TEMPORARY minor gain at worst you can have a slightly less smooth idle. The IAT relocate is about as pointless. AIR and EGR removal offers no perfomance benifit, the EGR is not active under hard throttle.
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When I took off the AIR system, it sounded alot better, I plugged the Header connections and it idled alot smoother. I have a 112 LSA cam, de-screening it, I didn't notice any roughness at idle.... lol
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Originally Posted by wolfsburgfanatic
I've heard about this before, but still don't know what the benefit is? 
Originally Posted by luckyou03
Coolant is running through the throttle body and heating up the incoming air for fast start up in extremely cold conditions only problem is once the engine reaches operating temperature the coolant keeps pumping through up to 220 degrees warming the air to reduce horsepower. Cooler air is more dense then warm air equaling more horsepower.
any how to do pictures or write up?
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Originally Posted by the_merv
DE-screen the Mass Air Flow Sensor
i would suggest against this mod. 94 was the first year to have a MAF.
it has to do with flow. the MAF is the instrument that measures the air entering your engine. the MAF elements barely see any area at off of the actual air that's coming in. this means that to get an accurate reading the flow must be laminar (smooth and even) so that the airflow across is predictable.
the screen itself poses much less of a restriction than the throttle body and therefore will not result in a real gain. the gains that ppl see, if any, are due to the now unpredictable airflow. sometimes the MAF can think there is less air going into it than there actually is and lean out the mixture resulting in a little bit more power. if you want to do that just get a tune.
anyway, it's a critical piece of equipment and gains are negligable at best. if you don't understand it, your best bet is to leave it alone.
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From: king of prussia, pa (home) and williamsport, pa (school)
ive attempted the tb bypass several times with my car. i have a 96 ws6. on the lower right side of the TB i was easily able to get the tube off and plug it up. only problem was on the left side of the TB. The tube is all cramped in with other tubes and when you try to get to it with plyers, your always hitting up against the TPS. the tube on the left is very short and i believe it is a bit different from 93-95 lt1's. anybody have any helpful hints or pics on how they made this mod easier???? thanks 
I helped my buddy do it to his 96 and I am doing it to mine this weekend. The tube on the left is a bitch it took me pulling it off and him shoving the other tube on really fast to get this ****. I'm sure it is easier than we made it but it was the first time either of us had done it so inexperience was probably the problem there.
...yeah im the buddy you helped...whats up nick?....inexperience wasnt the problem..but lack of proper tools...what a pain in the *** that was. Did you ever get that lifter fixed?...btw..my new 383 is in and it went in for paint today..im comin down to va beach 4/3 maybe ill see you down there..still workin over at AIMD?
Colder denser air makes more power by allowing you to burn more fuel, luckyou03 gave you most of the explaination just left out the last detail.
I have found the left side hose to be a PITA but it helps if you undo the nut holding that pipe to the intake stud, lets you move the pipe a bit and get a long pair of needlenose on that clamp, might need to cut the hose off the pipe then, just have the hose that used to go to the right ready to put on the pipe immediately to minimize coolant spillage.
I have found the left side hose to be a PITA but it helps if you undo the nut holding that pipe to the intake stud, lets you move the pipe a bit and get a long pair of needlenose on that clamp, might need to cut the hose off the pipe then, just have the hose that used to go to the right ready to put on the pipe immediately to minimize coolant spillage.