Like it says my water temp. is heating up really fast when im idleing. My fan is working fine and my coolent level is fine. It never gets past about 230 degrees when its idleing but when im driving it drops down to a normal temp.

What else could it be if its not the coolent level or fan?

 

That's normal. The stock fan settings suck. They don't come on at all before 225. A tune will fix it.

 

I am a fan of low temp thermostats...tune fan and add low temp stat...ypu live in a hot climate...just my opinion....MM

 

I got a fan switch and it is still doing it.

 

I would check the thermostat...maybe sticking....have you made any recent mods that may affect the engine...is the engine coolant in good shape..ie not gunked up...the dexcool antifreeze is notorius for gunking up and cloging the radiator, but I would check the t-stat and replace with a 160....MM

 

I flushed the coolant a few 1000 miles but i'll try the thermostat see if that works.

 

did u do anything with the airpump lately.......... for me with the airpump disconnected my car runs in the 180ish range........ with the air pump connected it sits between 200 and 225

 

I had a similar issue with mine when I bought it used. It was one of the two sensors for the coolant temp. One is located on the water pump housing and one is located on the drivers side block. I replaced them and it hasn't done it since. I am not saying this is your problem but it is a suggestion. BTW the sensors were not that expensive I think I paid right around 20 bucks or so at O'Reilly. I also did a really thorogh job of bleeding the air out of the system, which could also be the cluprit of your problems.

Joshua

 

You can try this link as it has some pictures and what not that helped me out.

www.shbox.com

Let us know how it goes.

Joshua

 

Great link... I use that one alot. I have been wrestling the cooling in my car for years. Its normal for it to climb to 230 in traffic and cool to whatever your thermostat is. (Currently mine is a 180°). I have also heard about fan switches. If you have one in, you have to do it right. There are 3 relays that control your fans and I'm not sure exactly how they work together. But the point is there is a high and low setting for your fan speeds. You probably want that switch to turn on the high setting. I actually bought the hypertech program that turns the fans on at 174° ish... (on high). I still have the 180° stat in (for now) but my temp never rises above 180° anymore. I need to install the 160° stat to run with the program because I'll probably wear out the fan motor if I continue to run it this way.

Another thing to consider is your bleeding procedure when you changed your fluid. It is absolutely necessary to bleed ALL of the air out of your system to be sure that your system pressurizes correctly. I had a situation where I had so much air that it wanted to overheat.

Some Information about the fan turn on temperatures:
The article that this information came from...
LT1 Reverse Flow Cooling System

The B/D-car coolant fans operate under PCM control at the following engine temperatures and A/C system pressures:

Fan Mode----------------Temperature------A/C Pressure
Primary (RH) Fan ON------109 C 229 F--------189 psi
Primary (RH) Fan OFF------105 C 221 F--------150 psi
Secondary (LH) Fan ON---112 C 234 F--------240 psi
Secondary (LH) Fan OFF---108 C 227 F--------210 psi

Additionally, the PCM will turn off the fans at higher vehicle speeds (above 48 MPH I believe) since running fans can actually impede airflow through the radiator at high speed. Each fan also has a minimum running time. Once activated, the primary fan will run for a minimum of 50 seconds, and the secondary fan for a minimum of 26 seconds. Finally, certain Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) may cause the PCM to turn on one or both fans.