help! oil pan on 383
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Teching In
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 35
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help! oil pan on 383 This is going to be a kinda long write up so bear with me here.
Im having my engine rebuilt into a 383 using the eagle crank #10350375057I And well my problem is the last counter weight wont clear my oil pan. Unless they chop the crap out of it and weld it up and do alot of massging. Well hes given me not to many options here. First off massage the stock oil pan resulting in 160$ of labor. Or get a new oil pan. But he tells me the kits on summit that say they will fit wont fit unless they massage it like the stock oil pan. He tells me that from his experiance the only pan that will fit without any work to it is the milodon pan # 30909. The problem here is, it has no hole tapped for a low oil sensor ( i dont really care about this one since i check my oil) CAn i have this sensor deleted by a mail order tune? I could have a hol drilled and tapped but i dont want to cut up a brand new pan. Also anoter problem with this pan is the kickout on the bottom he, says it probaly wont clear the oil filter, so he wants me to disregard the oil cooler and completley get rid of it. Does this make sense to you guys. I was under the impression that its there for a reason, but he seems to think itll be ok with out it. Right now im leaning towards the milodon pan, since it has extra capacity and it will fit without working over (what he says). Whats your opnion on the matter? please help me out.
Steven
Im having my engine rebuilt into a 383 using the eagle crank #10350375057I And well my problem is the last counter weight wont clear my oil pan. Unless they chop the crap out of it and weld it up and do alot of massging. Well hes given me not to many options here. First off massage the stock oil pan resulting in 160$ of labor. Or get a new oil pan. But he tells me the kits on summit that say they will fit wont fit unless they massage it like the stock oil pan. He tells me that from his experiance the only pan that will fit without any work to it is the milodon pan # 30909. The problem here is, it has no hole tapped for a low oil sensor ( i dont really care about this one since i check my oil) CAn i have this sensor deleted by a mail order tune? I could have a hol drilled and tapped but i dont want to cut up a brand new pan. Also anoter problem with this pan is the kickout on the bottom he, says it probaly wont clear the oil filter, so he wants me to disregard the oil cooler and completley get rid of it. Does this make sense to you guys. I was under the impression that its there for a reason, but he seems to think itll be ok with out it. Right now im leaning towards the milodon pan, since it has extra capacity and it will fit without working over (what he says). Whats your opnion on the matter? please help me out.
Steven
I'm facing the same situation, but I'm going to try my stock pan first.
What headers are you running? If they're longtubes, you shouldn't have a problem with the larger pan (Canton or otherwise). If you're running mids or shorties, depending on how they come across the pan, they may not fit. My SLP headers supposedly dont' fit.
You can likely bypass the oil level sensor with a resistor or a piece of wire. That shouldn't be a problem at all.
Me, I have a welder and I'm not afraid to use it
so I'm probably going to follow BGA's approach (Big Gay Al 
just kiddin' if he finds this post, hi Al 
) at http://www.caspeed.com/gallery8/index2.html - he shows how his stock oil pan was modified and welded to clear the crank.
I don't want to get new headers, I don't want to try to fit a Canton pan in there, so I'll start with modifying the stock pan to see if it'll work.
If you've already got the longtube headers, you should be fine with the larger pan.
And I ditched my factory oil cooler years ago...
What headers are you running? If they're longtubes, you shouldn't have a problem with the larger pan (Canton or otherwise). If you're running mids or shorties, depending on how they come across the pan, they may not fit. My SLP headers supposedly dont' fit.
You can likely bypass the oil level sensor with a resistor or a piece of wire. That shouldn't be a problem at all.
Me, I have a welder and I'm not afraid to use it
so I'm probably going to follow BGA's approach (Big Gay Al just kiddin' if he finds this post, hi Al ) at http://www.caspeed.com/gallery8/index2.html - he shows how his stock oil pan was modified and welded to clear the crank.I don't want to get new headers, I don't want to try to fit a Canton pan in there, so I'll start with modifying the stock pan to see if it'll work.
If you've already got the longtube headers, you should be fine with the larger pan.
And I ditched my factory oil cooler years ago...
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Damn my crank fits fine. I did have to 'Massage" the pan to clear the rods in several places.
I am using my stock pan with out any issues with my Eagle 4340 crank. No matter what pan you use there will be clearancing involved. We had to clearance the Pan rails on the canton to make it fit also.
Good luck!
I am using my stock pan with out any issues with my Eagle 4340 crank. No matter what pan you use there will be clearancing involved. We had to clearance the Pan rails on the canton to make it fit also.
Good luck!
Canton 242T. Supposedly they fixed the steering rack clearance issue. It also has the hole for the oil level sending unit.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...gories&pcid=84
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...gories&pcid=84
