I am on the break-in period on my Golen 440 383 torque.
here's the specs:
440hp @ 6000rpm 460 lbs/ft @ 4100rpm
Duration:
Intake: 224@ .050
Exhaust: 230@ .050
Lift:
Intake: .540
Exhaust: .550
Lobe
112
4-bolt main caps and ARP main studs.

Crank: Eagle cast steel, internal balanced front and rear
Rods: Scat 4340 forged steel, 6¡n length, floating pin
Pistons: SRP Forged
Rings: Speed Pro Plasma-Moly
Bearings: Clevite Main and Rod Bearings
Lifters: Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller
Pushrods: Comp Cams High Energy
Valve Springs: Comp Cams
Rocker Arms: Comp Cams Aluminum Full-Roller 1.6 Ratio
Multi angle fully ported LT1 heads

I was seating the rings last night-- full throttle through 3rd gear then letting off and coasting back to idle-- and it felt like I'm missing about 150 horsepower.But it runs pretty good and smooth, I had to turn up the idle bc it runs rich, but its not like hesitating or backfiring or anything.

My old bolton 350 (261rwhp) felt just as fast as this new 383.

Now, I haven't gotten a tune for the 383 and I am still on my 24lb injectors and it's running pretty rich, but jeeze, it couldn't even chirp 2nd shifting at 5500 ...

Is the PCMforLess tune going to fix this? because if it doesn't, there will be a brand new 383 going up for sale....

 

thats a relatively small cam for a 383. does it feel torquey? you should really get a good tune and some injectors.

 

not much torque gain, hardly any horsepower either.

I have the SVO 30lb injectors waiting to go in with the new tune.

I hope that does something.

 

Something is really wrong. It can't be all about the tune. Oh and you know 440hp is flywheel hp not rear wheel.

 

yea I know. It should be putting around 390-400 to the ground but it does not feel like its more than 275.

 

Take her to the dyno. See the exact result.

 

My car puts 400 n/a to the wheels and it is way different than my stock feeling car! Tune can help my first pull showed 360rwhp after tuning we got it to 400 and it still needs a lot of tuning, still rich!

 

TUNING will make a huge difference.

 

Sometimes it's hard to go by the "seat of the pants" meter. Put that puppy on the dyno and hopefully you'll be able to find out if your suspicions are unfounded.

After my head/cam install, I had the same feelings you're having. Fortunately I was wrong and the car did turn out to be a bit quicker than before. Tuning can make a huge difference. Hopefully, for you it will.

Good luck.

 

Get it tuned, think about getting a larger cam, and get 42# injectors. Personally I'd go with the GM 847. Just my $.02.

 

Well check your plugs and wires for proper setup on the opti.... lil story about my old 355.... I made like a max of like 308 RWHP with my stock LT1 with bolt ons.... 421 RWHP on 150 shot dry.....

after years of running that setup i lunched a piston. so i built my 355. stock crank, 6" rods, SRP flattops, Stage II heads, 236/242 .556/.576 112 cam, 58mm TB, longtubes, Mufflex 4" catback.... few other minor parts... also had a piggyback Accel Gen VI DFI system...

got it started and Joe Overton came over to tune it. spent about 30 minutes tuning initially setting up idle, coolant and IAC functions.... then got into spark and fuel tables. then all of a sudden a nasty backfire started... he spent another 30 minutes trying to get rid of it. no dice. we take it out for a spin and it's bucking pretty good. it's loud and felt powerful. we get it on the road and he tells me to lean on it ( I secretly FLOOR IT ) Car kinda starts to pull a bit.... I'm frowning and it's killing me inside.... Joe leans over and sees my face and says "don't worry it'll feel much better when you floor it" (which made me feel 10 times worse).... i never said that i did floor it....

After we get back joe asks me if my opti routing on the wires is good and i don't have a plug wire going to the wrong hole. I tell him I'm a pro and that would never happen

A day later I check over wires again and find #2 and #4 are crossed on the opti.... take the car out and it feels like it has THREE stock LT1's.. Absolutely animalistic acceleration, no surging, just clean power.... Moral of the story: Trust Joe Overton and the buttometer is fairly accurate when it comes to knowing the diff between 308 RWHP and 422 RWHP (which my car later made NA)... Check the simple things like fuel pressure under load, crossed wires, and the phantom power killer "Burnt plug wires" which occur ALOT with new engine setups seeing as how you just routed the wires and they could have touched the headers..... little tip. start your car in the garage with no lights at nighttime. let your eyes adjust and stare into your engine bay near the headers, spark plugs and opti.... if you see sparks jumping or arcing you have a bad plug wire.... just a good tip to go by. hope this helps man and you find your lost power....

 

the 30lb SVO's will help with the lack of power. the rich ness is coming from the tune. best thing to do is get a shop that does dyno tuning and let them go at it. they can make it work with the 24lb injectors or the SVO's if you wanted to. but the pcmforless tune, IMO, wont show the same results a dyno tune will.

 

You should feel a major difference. My 383 pulls like a Monster! I can't get the smile off of my face after hammering it. I pull .59 G's in 2nd gear and .46 G's in 3rd gear.

Go over your plug wires again. Mine were crossed on the initial start-up.

24's are too small but you should still have great torque. My 30's are hitting around 87 Duty Cycle with my setup (383, AFR 190s, GM847)

 

Is it possible for wires to be crossed and the car run smooth and hesitation free like it does?

 

probably not but it's worth checking.... mine bucked a little and of course backfired occasionally...... yours could be something different like fuel pressure or burned plug wires....

 

I got 45rwhp more on a Dyno tune than a mail order tune.and im still running stock injectors.So get that thing tuned an you will be amazed.