LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

I'm dropping the engine/subframe from underneath the car...

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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 06:42 AM
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Default I'm dropping the engine/subframe from underneath the car...

Finally getting to a rebuild!!

Does anyone have any tips or time-savers when dropping the subframe.
So far I only have 1 link with some pics but I could use some more pointers.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 06:46 AM
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Disconect all the coolant lines, ground cables, Computer and harness, and power steering box. Disconnect the brake lines off of the ABS motor, remove the steering shaft, it has 2 joints. Remove the drive shaft, and the Trans cross member. Then loosen the upper ball joints, and the 6 K member bolts. Make sure it is supported good before you loosen all of that stuff.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 08:56 AM
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I wish i did that, I pulled my motor from the top, its was a bit*h.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
Disconect all the coolant lines, ground cables, Computer and harness, and power steering box. Disconnect the brake lines off of the ABS motor, remove the steering shaft, it has 2 joints. Remove the drive shaft, and the Trans cross member. Then loosen the upper ball joints, and the 6 K member bolts. Make sure it is supported good before you loosen all of that stuff.
thats how I did it, not hard at all.....
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 10:11 AM
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That is how I did mine for my Cam. I didn't mention the AC, because all that junk is removed out of mine. Made it an hour shorter. Now I have to replace the Head Gaskets, and install Long Tube Headers. The best part is that they will go in without removing the motor. Yes, it is possible....
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 11:05 AM
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Thanks all,

Pretty excited, I been wanting to do this for a long time now. I've got forged speed-pro pistons waiting, so long as the bores aren't too worn out(152K) and are in spec, if they mic out bad I'll have to punch her 30 over and go with other pistons. These pistons need a bigger than stock bore anyway. Will be prepping/de-glazing the bores properly.


I will have a cherry picker and engine stand.
Taking the crank and rods to get checked, and shot peened.
Going with the dura-engine bearings from speed pro also.
Speed pro piston rings file fitted.
GM stock replacement oil pump.
GM gaskets.
ARP rod bolts.
1.7 roller rockers.
GM distributor cap+rotor. +opti.
GM O2 sensors.
Accusump 2 quart oil accumulator. (manual valve)
Rag joint eliminator.
Energy suspension front end kit. Will replace the shocks later(my budget sucks)
New starter.

Have to buy a clutch and PP.(resurfacing flywheel) And am really hoping to be able to scrounge up the cash for a master rebuild kit on the T56 somehow.

Keeping my ZZ4 cam. except I might pop her in at -4 this time. I ported the bowls on my heads awhile back. When I had them angle cut the shop offered me a job! Wish I could say it was more of a power build up and I had some more exciting specs for you guys, but gas being what it is.... I'll be turning over to the dark side soon anyhows(N20), so the ZZ4's dual pattern will work fine for that, with the 1.7s up top the lift will be very decent.

I am also getting new valve guides put in and may try to angle cut the heads for half a point more of compression. (not that its worth much)

The only questions on my mind are do the 1.7s need special pushrods or not?
And are getting valvespring cups worth it and by who if so?

If I manage to squeeze in the tranny rebuild into this one which I really want to, then after this the next project will be a Ford 9 inch.

Last edited by License2Ill; Apr 18, 2006 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 10:22 AM
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http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/
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