double roller timing chain?
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From: Tinley Park, IL.
double roller timing chain? I am doing a LE h&c swap in the next month or so and I was wondering who has switched to a double roller chain. What modifications did you do to make it work and were you able to use the water pump still? I located this chain on summit's web site, will it work with out modifcation?
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294889104
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294889104
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
I have had good luck with Cloyes Billet and Edelbrock. I have one other one that hit and rubber the cover but I do not remember what kind it was.
BTW on a 97 you will loose your CPS and not pass a plug in test
BTW on a 97 you will loose your CPS and not pass a plug in test
I used a Cloyes OE replacement, but had issues. The recess, inside the "thrust face" of the cam gear was machined to an incorrect depth. When I tightened the gear to the cam, the back of the gear "locked up" on the front face of the block.
Fortunately, I have access to a small machine shop where I work, so we were able to "massage" the gear into shape. Sadly, I contacted Cloyes, gave them all of the measurements off the gear, they compared them to the prints, and their reply was, "Gee, it (the gear) is right on the nominal of the spec. We've never seen this before". They didn't say, ship it back, or we'll send another, nothing! Some customer service??
I was lucky, I was able to correct it myself.
Fortunately, I have access to a small machine shop where I work, so we were able to "massage" the gear into shape. Sadly, I contacted Cloyes, gave them all of the measurements off the gear, they compared them to the prints, and their reply was, "Gee, it (the gear) is right on the nominal of the spec. We've never seen this before". They didn't say, ship it back, or we'll send another, nothing! Some customer service??
I was lucky, I was able to correct it myself.
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I used a CC double roller chain on my install. For water pump duties I went with the MEZ HD. Today I went on a long drive (about 250 miles) and my water temps were about 25 degrees cooler than before the build up. 75 mph+ for an hour or so at a time and then slowing down for Podunk towns.
MIke
MIke
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Yup he's right... I have the CSI electric water pump and a Comp Cams double roller.. You have to have the electric water pump to do the double roller since the gear teeth on the back of the stock cam gear drive the water pump gear that is pressed into the block with a bearing. The correct way to do it is this...
1. Get the double roller and either the CSI or Meziere waterpump.
2. I had to modify my water pump to get the CSI to fit. small grinding required to get the little humps on the waterpump to clear the inside of the WP.... so get that done or buy a Meziere that supposedly doesn't need it.
3. once your timing cover is off and you have access to all of it you'll need to pound out the waterpump driveshaft. i used a hammer and just whacked on it till it pushed out the pressed in bearing.
4. bolt up the new chain and gears per instructions.
5. Get the hole for the waterpump driveshaft welded up.
6. Get the driveshaft on the back of the water pump pressed out (you won't be able to do this yourself most likely.
7. Weld up the weephole on the bottom of the water pump and weld up the hole on the back of the waterpump where the d-shaft used to be.
8. your timing cover should only have two holes on it now. one where the cam drive pin come thru and the other where your crank snout comes thru....
9. bolt everything back together and put the water pump on and wire it up...
done deal.... that is the right way. i have seen others leave the hole but that is hokey....
1. Get the double roller and either the CSI or Meziere waterpump.
2. I had to modify my water pump to get the CSI to fit. small grinding required to get the little humps on the waterpump to clear the inside of the WP.... so get that done or buy a Meziere that supposedly doesn't need it.
3. once your timing cover is off and you have access to all of it you'll need to pound out the waterpump driveshaft. i used a hammer and just whacked on it till it pushed out the pressed in bearing.
4. bolt up the new chain and gears per instructions.
5. Get the hole for the waterpump driveshaft welded up.
6. Get the driveshaft on the back of the water pump pressed out (you won't be able to do this yourself most likely.
7. Weld up the weephole on the bottom of the water pump and weld up the hole on the back of the waterpump where the d-shaft used to be.
8. your timing cover should only have two holes on it now. one where the cam drive pin come thru and the other where your crank snout comes thru....
9. bolt everything back together and put the water pump on and wire it up...
done deal.... that is the right way. i have seen others leave the hole but that is hokey....
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Originally Posted by Formula WS6
What did you do for your water pump and timing cover as far as the wp drive? Did you weld them both up?
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I could be wrong, but I seem to recall seeing an LT-1 timimg cover that didn't have the water pump drive hole in it. maybe the early cars, '93-4 ??
I just used a freeze plug, it fit tight but wouldnt quite seal all the way on its own (Due to height of plug). So I put it in with some JB weld and have not had a problem.
Others have used 50cent pieces JBwelded or made aluminum plugs to weld in place.
All the Cloyes chains Ive seen used clear the timing cover, but the hex-adjust will only work for you if you are not going to be running an opti.
