LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Quick question on pacesetter LT install

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Old May 4, 2006 | 09:02 PM
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Default Quick question on pacesetter LT install

Well I've got the driver's side manifold out and the Y-pipe is out and the passenger's side has 4 more bolts in it. I put her up on the lift and said hell with it for tonight.

From looking at it, it appears the driver's side will go in through the top if I uncouple the steering shaft down there. Does anyone have any input? If anyone has done this, did you uncouple the rag joint or the bolt above it? I was thinking of undoing both and just removing that whole section of the shaft.

Also from looking at it, it looks like both front O2 will have to be lengthened, true?
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Old May 4, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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u have to install them from the bottom.... both sides. remove the steering shaft from rack and pinion to output shaft on column. Trust me i have done them a a dozen times.... Left it as high as you can safetly because u are in for a little bit of a wrestling match.
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Old May 4, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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I have to change Head Gaskets, so I am going to have the Heads gone, and I am disconnecting the Steering Shaft, that should make it easier to get them in. Yes, the O2 Sensor wires have to be extended, bought the extentions yesterday.
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Old May 4, 2006 | 11:13 PM
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Yes both oxygen sensors will have to be lengthened. If you are going to lengthen them yourself then solder connections. The headers should have came with instructions talking about this and some wire.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 12:47 AM
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Yeah they came with wire but strangely no directions lol

So both in the bottom huh? Okay I'll do it that way. Thanks for the help guys
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Old May 5, 2006 | 01:42 AM
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I am getting a set of Pace Setter LT's, it shows some wire with it, but I got a pair of 24" extentions for $60. I would rather plug **** in, than sodder.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:36 AM
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I disconnected the steering shaft at the lower bolt where it slides onto the R&P. It's easy and quick and gives you extra room to work with. I also had to remove the oil filter to get the header up and in. But by doing that, I did not need to remove the coolant sending unit in the head, I was able to clear it easily. Passenger side was a complete nightmare due to the emission's fittings on the headers and the fact that my car has the wrong automatic transmission in it. I had to jack up the engine on the passenger side to finally get the header up and in. You might get lucky if you're doing the non emission's headers.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:50 AM
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That's what I am getting... I took all that **** out already.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 09:20 AM
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When I first installed mine, I was changing head gaskets and was able to set the drivers side one in from the top with the head off. And I couldnt get the pass side manifold off untill the head was off, or I would have had to unbolt the mount and jack up the motor. There's an aluminum tube coming off the back of the AC compressor that didnt want to clear the #2 primary tube. I just bent it down slightly.

When I did the motor swap, I put the heads on the motor while bolted to the K-member and lowered the car onto the whole assembly.
But I had to pull the drivers side header off for something, and it was not gonna come out without lifting the motor off the mount. Mostly because of the Canton pan though.

DO NOT bother trying to extend your O2 sensor wires with that crap kit from Pacesetter. The crimp connectors didnt work out, and when trying to solder I found that the wires on the 02 side of the plug were coated in a wax that did not allow the solder to stick. I used some flux, then solder, and thought they stuck pretty well. Then I got O2 codes within 50 miles When I checked, I found that at least two wires on each sensor had seperated completely at the splice.
12" extensions are all you'll need.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:14 AM
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The extentions can be found at thunderracing.com The shortest the offer is 24" for my 1995, and that is the OBD1 flat connections. Rather have more than not enough....
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Old May 5, 2006 | 12:57 PM
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You can get 12" extensions or 24" extensions. The driver's side would work better with a 12" since it doesn't need to go too far. You can get them directly from Casper's Electronics and they ship out pretty quick or try Summit, Jegs or ThunderRacing.
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Old May 6, 2006 | 12:31 AM
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I soldered the wires that came with the kit. They appear to be strong and I heatshrinked them and covered them in a thermal wrap so hopefully they'll live. If they kick the bucket I'll get the extensions from summit or where ever.

I got the driver's side in the bottom this morning after removing the steering shaft. The shaft bolted back up without a problem - didn't have to clearance anything.

I got the passenger's side manifold out of the bottom without a fight after I got all the bolts out. I'm expecting I'll have to remove the motor mount bolt and jack up the motor to get the header in there.. joy.

One more question though, can I install the starter AFTER the header is bolted into place? That is, will I have the clearance to do it? Can anyone tell me the order in which they installed stuff, i.e. Header, spark plugs/wires, starter? I have a manual tranny if it matters. Thanks! You've all been a big help
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Old May 6, 2006 | 12:53 PM
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Yeah, no problems installing the starter after the header is in. Take your time routing the plug wires to make sure they don't touch the headers and do that before putting the starter back in so you have extra room to move stuff around. I put some heat tape on a couple of the wires on the passenger side along the inner fender. They definitely get close and will hit the header tube so add some more heat wrap tape for extra protection.
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Old May 6, 2006 | 05:12 PM
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I did just that. I put thick thermal heat blanket stuff over the 02 wires too to make sure they didn't burn. Finished a few minutes ago! Fired up the car with open long tubes and DAMN did it sound good

I forgot to put the dipstick back in though, so I'll pull the starter (love my two bolt starter haha) and stick it in there on Monday. Then she'll go to the exhaust shop and get the Y-pipe put on. I tried to do it myself but it was more hassle than I wanted to mess with. I already had 12+ hours into the header install itself

Thanks for the help guys
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