problems with new tune..
05-08-2006, 10:06 PM
#41
I know this sounds wierd, but i had a miss too, under light and moderate acceleartion. So I changed the plugs to ngk's to see if that helped, but it made it 10x worse. They all fouled instantly somehow, making it miss on all but 1-2 cylinders, and it would barley run. So I changed the plugs again, and it went back to the original miss, which was a huge improvement, but I still had a miss. Then I changed the 02's since I had nothin to loose, i already changed the opti a a week before, and it ended up fixing the problem. It was the 02's all along... I would change ur plugs and try driving with the 02's disconnected, they could be fouled. Its only like $12 for 8 autolights...
05-08-2006, 10:15 PM
#42
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update!!! I pulled the plugs. cylinder 1 & 3 look normal, while all of the rest are completely black. And if you notice cynlinders 6&8 are black around the porclean. That would mean there shorting out or an exhaust leak? Probably shorting out because the threads would be black too if it was an exhaust leak?
05-09-2006, 09:22 AM
#43
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looks like you got the same exhaust i have... true duals with a couple flowmaster race mufflers 
i would look for an exhaust leak right around those.. if it was arking i dont think it would look that bad... at least not right away.
did the wire boot look black also?
i would look for an exhaust leak right around those.. if it was arking i dont think it would look that bad... at least not right away.
did the wire boot look black also?
05-09-2006, 01:24 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by blkchevyz
looks like you got the same exhaust i have... true duals with a couple flowmaster race mufflers
i would look for an exhaust leak right around those.. if it was arking i dont think it would look that bad... at least not right away.
did the wire boot look black also?
i would look for an exhaust leak right around those.. if it was arking i dont think it would look that bad... at least not right away.
did the wire boot look black also?
Reading my scan the right side was totally lean because the plugs aren't firing?? why would the right side only, not fire?
05-09-2006, 01:37 PM
#45
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well the left side was showing rich and the right was showing lean on the scanner...
the right side was getting a false reading due to the exhaust leaks or bad o2s its going to keep adding fuel and make it very rich.
the right side was getting a false reading due to the exhaust leaks or bad o2s its going to keep adding fuel and make it very rich.
05-09-2006, 08:37 PM
#47
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i installed new 02's and all new plugs and it did nothing. Car still can't drive. I unplugged the TPS sensor and car drive somewhat normal. The best it's driven yet. But now i've developed a tapping that sound like somewhere in the valvetrain...
05-10-2006, 01:36 PM
#49
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I replaced the tps and the new one shows .67 closed and 4.98 wot. I pulled the valve cover on the driver side and #5 & 7 cylinder exhaust rockers where completely loose.
sounds like your getting the bugs out of it
05-10-2006, 04:25 PM
#51
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ok new tps, new plugs, new o2's, fixed loose rockers... car still can't drive. Can you check to make sure the tps settings are right on the new tune. i'm stumped i dunno what the heck is going on. Car still will not drive. Slowly starts to accelerate then falls on its face. I think i'm just going to run the old tune.
05-10-2006, 04:53 PM
#53
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I'm now seeing a knock retard? what the heck........ I was holding the idle open barely to idle it to 850, so ignore the tps voltage being a little higher.
I just took this about 5 min ago. This has the new 02's, plugs ect...
05-10-2006, 05:03 PM
#54
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goto www.ttspowersystems.com
and download the trial version of datamaster.
do a couple recordings of it while your driving.
try and get one in closed loop and open loop
and download the trial version of datamaster.
do a couple recordings of it while your driving.
try and get one in closed loop and open loop
05-10-2006, 06:34 PM
#56
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just for kicks i reprogrammed the old tune and ran a scan on it. look at the o2's! I took the car out for a drive any everything. it popped when slowwing down, but the car is 100% drivable. The knock count was also reduced by 33304!
i think the knock is coming from another rocker arm that came loose. i think if i re-adjusted all the rocker arms, and lock them down good the knock will go away.
i think the knock is coming from another rocker arm that came loose. i think if i re-adjusted all the rocker arms, and lock them down good the knock will go away.
05-10-2006, 11:11 PM
#57
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BLMS look right now but to me that battery voltage is still kinda low even for 600rpm. Not to mention the IAC count is still maxed..
What Kind of 52mm TB are you running? Stock rebored, or aftermarket/ More times than not on an aftermarket unit you need to drill holes in the throttle blades to help allow more air into engine when blades are closed to help IAC counts. Did you clean the IAC passages when you installed the new TB?
What Kind of 52mm TB are you running? Stock rebored, or aftermarket/ More times than not on an aftermarket unit you need to drill holes in the throttle blades to help allow more air into engine when blades are closed to help IAC counts. Did you clean the IAC passages when you installed the new TB?
Last edited by buffman; 05-10-2006 at 11:20 PM.
05-11-2006, 01:08 AM
#58
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Originally Posted by buffman
BLMS look right now but to me that battery voltage is still kinda low even for 600rpm. Not to mention the IAC count is still maxed..
What Kind of 52mm TB are you running? Stock rebored, or aftermarket/ More times than not on an aftermarket unit you need to drill holes in the throttle blades to help allow more air into engine when blades are closed to help IAC counts. Did you clean the IAC passages when you installed the new TB?
What Kind of 52mm TB are you running? Stock rebored, or aftermarket/ More times than not on an aftermarket unit you need to drill holes in the throttle blades to help allow more air into engine when blades are closed to help IAC counts. Did you clean the IAC passages when you installed the new TB?
05-11-2006, 01:21 AM
#59
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You may need to drill two small holes (one in each blade) in order to allow more air into the engine with the blades closed in order to reduce that IAC count.
What kind of RRs are you running? Self-Aligning, Non-Self Aligning? What lash do you have them set to and are you lashing them engine off, or engine running?
What kind of RRs are you running? Self-Aligning, Non-Self Aligning? What lash do you have them set to and are you lashing them engine off, or engine running?
