where did it go?

 

I deleted it, I know where my problem most likely lies and I don't want to give Chad a bad rep. by someone taking that thread the wrong way and thinking that his engines aren't good-- because they are great engines.

I'm in the process of working my A/F and ignition problems out. I found a scanner and the code was for a bad knock sensor, didn't help me out that much by replacing it, but most likely my car was never tuned properly with a bad knock sensor, so the car is still running pig rich....

 

arr you gonna use a LT1 LT$ Knock Sensor?

 

I have a LT4 knock module already; I think the actual knock sensor is the same for all SBCs. I just got one at Advanced Auto.

 

let us know what the issue is

 

I dont get it. In the thread you swore by the tune. To much info doesnt add up.

 

My knock module was giving me crap while my car was getting tuned, it was reading a negative knock. I had the LT4 on

 

I'm sorry but I still dont believe in the LT4 KM. From what Ive learned it doesnt make knock go away when reading it with a logger, it just reduces the amount of timing pulled or something. Ive gotten to the point where I believe with some setups there is no pleasing the damn thing so I'm going to install a switch to by pass it completly when I choose and just let it do what it does during DD.

 

Humm well keep us updated, we rely on each other to know who's good and bad at what.

 

yeah they told me the put the LT1 KM back on

 

i had to set my max knock retard to 0 when i installed that last cam. i was getting 5-10 at just idle and part throttle car wouldnt even drive.

 

How did you rule out false knock? I see something like that on really burning hot days but for some reason Ive never seen more than 6.0. I got so pissed with the whole setting I went in and pulled all the timing out until I can get it dynotuned. Funny thing is with around 12 degrees pulled I still see the same knock lol.

 

i just did a lot of playing with the timing tables, basicly what you did, turn the timing way down and i was still getting knock. i even put in 5 gallons of race gas.

 

Chad is a good guy i bought his 396 and i am very happy with it. yes dosent put the numbers i wanted but i know where the problem is and besides number are not everything my car still pulls like a **** and with my fat 200 shot its a beast.

 

really no create motor puts down awsome number. but what they do is make decent power, and are reliable.
yeah a bigger cam, some high dollar heads would make it a beast, but the way they build them they probably drive just like a stock motor, just with alot more power.

 

I'm sure youll get it all worked out. I'm about to dyno my car soon so I like threads like this with insight to prepare me.

 

My knock module is fine it was my knock sensor that was screwed up. The knock module is located in the PCM, the knock sensor is on the side of the block, when I put the engine in the car, I must have damaged the sensor.

 

You can't correctly dyno tune a car with a non functioning knock sensor. It is a vital part of the Ignition/air/fuel combination. The computer was in limp-mode(decreased performance) the whole time.

 

yeah when the knock sensor goes bad (code 43) the computer reverts to a precalculated knock table that is extremely conservative and ignores the regular tables.

 

I wasnt talking to you when i posted that so what the fvck are you talking about? What in your right mind makes you feel like you have to explain the diff between a KS and KM to me? In what way did I indicate i didnt know the diff? I dont see how you didnt have a code when you broke it.