View Poll Results: Which way is the easiest to remove the LT1
From the top
34
34.34%
from the bottom
65
65.66%
Voters: 99. You may not vote on this poll
Which is the easiest way to remove the LT1, Top or bottom?
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: Houston/ Austin, TX
Ive taken out both ways. I pulled my LT1 out the bottom and an LS1 out the top. Taking them out is about the same IMO. Putting everything back together made all the differenece. The bottom went in 10x faster.
I've done it both ways. If you are pulling the trans out too there is really no point to do the top. I can do the bottom and the top in pretty much same time maybe 3-4 hours. I have had the top end of my car so many times and coolant hoses and crap just from doing optis, lifters etc, that it doesnt take me long to disconnect the things neded for top or bottom. The thing I hate most is the damn torque arm never wants to line up right when your putting it back on
Im going through the top as we speak. coming from a newbie its not too bad. i will let you all know how it goes, we still have a bit more work to do.
EDIT:
we are ready to pull it out of the top, all the accesories are off. my dad and I are slightly mechanically inclined and we did it, with no prior experience. it took a long *** time, but since we didnt have a lift, it was our only choice.
all in all, not so bad, just time consuming because of all the pioneering costs associated with such a thing.
EDIT:
we are ready to pull it out of the top, all the accesories are off. my dad and I are slightly mechanically inclined and we did it, with no prior experience. it took a long *** time, but since we didnt have a lift, it was our only choice.
all in all, not so bad, just time consuming because of all the pioneering costs associated with such a thing.
Last edited by rasputin; Aug 15, 2006 at 06:08 PM.
I've done it both ways as well.
Breeching the brake system is the biggest reason why out the bottom is a PITA.
So, I bought $30 worth of brake lines at O'Reilly's and replumbed the front brakes out of the K-Member.
It's so much easier to get it out the bottom ...
why are you guys having to drain the PS system?
Breeching the brake system is the biggest reason why out the bottom is a PITA.
So, I bought $30 worth of brake lines at O'Reilly's and replumbed the front brakes out of the K-Member.
It's so much easier to get it out the bottom ...
why are you guys having to drain the PS system?
I have a question. When you put the car on the two post lift, and un bolt everything, and got to lift the car up * without the motor * the center of gravity has changed a LOT, theres no weight on the front anymore, so when you lift it, wouldn't the car tip backwards if it was in the same position that lifted correctly with the motor in it?
The factory way was from the bottom and SHOULD be the easiest. Since assembly lines are more productive doing things the most efficient way. However Ive only done this from the top with a picker and didnt think it was too hard. The way out I did the engine first then the trans. On the way in, I had the ENGINE, TRANS, AND INTAKE TOGETHER . I couldnt believe it went in.
9 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: ringgold,ga
i've done them both ways also. to me out the top is easier. reasoning is; i dont have a lift or any airtools. i can get it out the top by myself w/o airtools in about 3.5-4hrs. putting it back in from the bottom without help wasnt easy. lining up the studs on the struts to the strut towers on both sides is alot easier if you got a friend handy. not to mention bleading the brakes aswell.
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12 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 876
Likes: 0
From: Catlettsburg, Ky
are you doing the work all alone?
if so, the bottom's the only way to go.. I did it during my 6spd/cam swap.
I just thought that bolting the motor/tranny together on the ground was SOO much easier than in the car, on top of that.
holding the front of the car up with the engine hoist and nothing more than a heavy duty 4-wheeled cart with caster's, I pulled mine out on my own.
I stripped everything off my motor (down to the long block) and cleaned/painted everything, bolting the power steering pump on in front of you is a breeze, as well as the A/C compressor AND LINES!
oh BTW, how about bolting a set of LT headers and routing your plug wires THE WAY YOU WANT all in front of you, where you can walk all the way around the motor to do it? then sliding it all in from under neath. I think that's what decided the winner to me. so what if you have to bleed the brakes, hell, it's a good idea every once in a while to do so anyway.
+1 for going from the bottom
if so, the bottom's the only way to go.. I did it during my 6spd/cam swap.
I just thought that bolting the motor/tranny together on the ground was SOO much easier than in the car, on top of that.
holding the front of the car up with the engine hoist and nothing more than a heavy duty 4-wheeled cart with caster's, I pulled mine out on my own.
I stripped everything off my motor (down to the long block) and cleaned/painted everything, bolting the power steering pump on in front of you is a breeze, as well as the A/C compressor AND LINES!
oh BTW, how about bolting a set of LT headers and routing your plug wires THE WAY YOU WANT all in front of you, where you can walk all the way around the motor to do it? then sliding it all in from under neath. I think that's what decided the winner to me. so what if you have to bleed the brakes, hell, it's a good idea every once in a while to do so anyway.
+1 for going from the bottom
Originally Posted by Camaroholic
I've done it both ways. To me, top is easier. Don't have to open the brake or power steering lines, and with a Happy Hooker, the motor practically jumps out of the car, with the hood still intact.
If I'm just going to pull the motor, I'd do it out the top. This last time I also added Eibachs/Bilsteins & LS1 front spindles... so it made sense to drop it out the bottom.
To move around the whole assembly (motor/trans/subframe/struts/wheels), I installed my strut tower brace and used the engine hoist. Made moving it around very easy. All using the Happy Hooker (and those 4 itty bitty bolts
).
If I'm just going to pull the motor, I'd do it out the top. This last time I also added Eibachs/Bilsteins & LS1 front spindles... so it made sense to drop it out the bottom.
To move around the whole assembly (motor/trans/subframe/struts/wheels), I installed my strut tower brace and used the engine hoist. Made moving it around very easy. All using the Happy Hooker (and those 4 itty bitty bolts
).
definately makes pulling the engine easier 
I'm going to be doing it twice with the Z and the T/A. Me and my friend with the lift haven't made a plan of action yet. Quick question, can you drop the motor and k member without unbolting the A arms? He just finished an LS1 he dropped from the bottom and took the front suspension with it and it turned out to be somewhat of a pain. I thought maybe leaving the A arms would eliminate some of the headache.
Me and my friend with the lift haven't made a plan of action yet
I thought maybe leaving the A arms would eliminate some of the headache.
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: oklahoma
out the bottom ive spoken to a number of people, all told me if i have access to a lift that its easier out the bottom, i have access to a lift, and the car needs an overhaul, could i get COMPLETE instructions from begginnging to end please? it would help me tremendously
Originally Posted by T/A KID
I'd Go bottom for sure, I have a lift at my house and thats what I plan on doing.
Drain the Tranny Fluid, pull the Driveshaft, unhook sensors from the motor undo the six K-member bolts and drop the tranny and motor leaving all the suspension all in tack. Drop it onto the Front wheels that way you can move it around still. Taking the A-arms off is just more hassle and you'll have to get it aligned again.
Drain the Tranny Fluid, pull the Driveshaft, unhook sensors from the motor undo the six K-member bolts and drop the tranny and motor leaving all the suspension all in tack. Drop it onto the Front wheels that way you can move it around still. Taking the A-arms off is just more hassle and you'll have to get it aligned again.
I'm going out this morning. I think I am going to remove the shortblock out the top. I'll just take off what I can before we go to remove. I've put a complete engine with the intake on in so I know we can do it again.
