Setup looks great. Fab work is beautiful. Car is sexy as well, SOM looks great on any car.

If you wish to advertise the website for your company, you are welcome to PM the site owners and inquire about sponsorship as I've told you previously via PM.

 

nice how much will this cost?

 

It looks cool, but I'm kinda wondering if it's anywhere near strong enough to handle a 4000lb car. And is it just me, or does that thing sit pretty high?

Still, I'm very impressed and this could lead to some really interesting stuff down the road!

 

It has been braced stronger then the same rear end in the C4 itself, we have taken it down the road a few times and have every bit of confidence in the car. A lot of the bracing that was done could be considered overkill, but we had your same conscern. It does sit high at moment, it needs to be aligned and on a C4 IRS you can adjust the height of the rear very much like coil overs, so its not a problem. This car has not bee running very long, needs an alignment, balanced drive shaft, and a dyno-tune and then we will really put it through its paces.

 

awesome keep us posted

 

the cost of something like this has to be obsured... cool... but i cant imagine to cost of it.

Seeing how my car pops, rattles, and squeeks so much, I would be interested in something like this (because most of the sounds come from the rear suspension and I just cant get rid of them)

 

interesting fender vents....

 

Very nice car, your shop does some great work.
-Brandon

 

Damn thats pretty interesting, I never even knew that was possible. Very clean looking install good job.

 

I hope you dont plan on racing this rearend. Its a Dana 36, and its weaker than the 10 bolt you took out. Its not if it will break but when. Even with Heavy duty rear bracing this ring/pinion is weak, very weak. Many Corvette owners end up upgrading to the D44 as it is much stronger and has been into the 9's.
My 93 went through 3 D36's with 3.75 gears, built by IKERDS, and with bolt on 350 LT1 auto and no slicks it broke, and I was only a 13 flat car.
Not to upset you, just to get you ready for racing issues that will come up.
A little visual
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...na+44+pictures

 

I have purchased those fender vents as well, but never installed them. Did you make them functional or just like a the Mustangs vents they are nonfunctional?

 

Nice to see someone else getting this swap done. Always wanted to try it on a 4th gen, but never had a donor car to do it. It's not as hard as everyone thinks (if you can weld and understand what needs to be braced and what doesn't).

I agree with Steve on the D36 though. They're the Vette version of the 7.625" 10-bolt. That's why we spent 4 months looking for a D44.

 

Yea, we didn't go for the Dana 44, but look how easy it is to put one in now if a problem were to arrive That is pretty much what was needed, we had an old 3rd gen that we had upside down beside the car and used that to do a lot of the test fitting and brackets then started cutting. About a good months work later we had it in there. Like I said, we probably went overkill on some of the bracing, but thats always better. Hopefully we'll have some good results to report.

 

Good luck. Remember all the difference in a D44 is is the driveshaft, different length, and the Bat Wing, and pumpkin. They are expensive. And getting scarce as allot of companies use this D44 for roadsters, kit cars, etc etc.

 

By the shape of the spring, I guess it's a TRW, made by Muskegan Brake. On my 74 vette I purchased one and the vette sat high too. Several on the Corvette Forum have the same problem with the TRW design. To correct the "jack rabbit" look, I purchased and installed a dual mount spring from VanSteel, and the car sat about 4 inches lower. The dual mount is also adjustable.

I have also seen vettes with coil-over mods to the IRS. Did you guys consider that too?

 

The spring is easily lowered. The two long bolts with nuts on the end of the spring need to be lossened to lower it. You will need longer bolts than the ones you have. Any hardware store worth its salt will have them, grade 8 though, and get an inch or two longer, then lower it. You must do a little then drive it around the block as it needs to settle. Then recheck. Then get it aligned, and ensure you tell the guy thats doing it to leave the height alone, as some shops have been known to align it by lowering and raising the rear to get the camber correct.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...lowering+bolts