Few electric WP questions
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
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From: jackassville Florida
Few electric WP questions Ok gang, just got a couple questions. I've got the pump in the stock housing, and ready to bolt back onto the motor. My EWP is a CSR model. My question is do I re use the little rubber o-ring seal that was originally under the cap? It seems on the CSR that there is a rubber o-ring implicated into the body of the pump, just curious if I still use the existing rubber ring seal?
Also I have a 30 amp relay that I'm going to be using, does anybody know of a closest means for a 12v trigger? I'd hate to run wires all the way into the damn interior for a trigger, I'm just not to familiar with the wiring options on the LT1.
Thanks,
Billy
Also I have a 30 amp relay that I'm going to be using, does anybody know of a closest means for a 12v trigger? I'd hate to run wires all the way into the damn interior for a trigger, I'm just not to familiar with the wiring options on the LT1.
Thanks,
Billy
i got a question while were at it... 30 amp relay, is that good enough?? I need to buy one but dont know what 1 to buy. My buddy has a relay that came with his nitrous bottle heater, would that be enough?? He doesnt know what amp it is but im sure its gotta be decent to run a bottle heater right? And im not running any heater hoses to theres 3 ports that are open, i know the top and right/lower one is for the heater hoses but the bottom/left is for????????????? And di i need to loop any of them or just cap um off???
I just used the stock relay that was used for the AIR pump. I think the fuse should be 25 or 30 amps right? I can't remember, so as long as it's rated the same as that, you'll be fine. I would at least loop those heater hoses around. You definitely can't just leave them off, and I don't know if capping it is a wise idea, but I don't know of anyone that's tried it, so you may be the first. My assumption would be that more coolant in the system = more cooling capacity.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 384
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If you take the underhood fuse box off of its base, you'll actually find some open connectors towards the engine-side, which are suitible to use as a +12v "switched" source (for relay trigger). The empty connectors are part of a metal plate, which feeds all fuses on that side. I had an open relay slot on my UFB, so I installed my relay there for a "factory" look.
This is the wiring diagram I used (made by Andrew @ AKMcables.com, if I'm not mistaken), though I deviated slightly in order to install an illuminated switch in addition to the two warning LEDs. It works well.
Yes, a 30-amp automotive relay is good enough. You can buy them at RadioShack, or your local automotive parts store. I'm not certain, but Walmart might carry them as well.
This is a generic diagram I cooked up of the waterpump inlets/outlets. If you're referring to the bottom passenger side, that would be the waterpump outlet / heater inlet hose. If you're referring to the bottom driver's side, that typically goes to the oil cooler on Fbodies (if equipped), then straight to the driver's side radiator. I know that the Y-body pumps don't even have a fitting in this location, so you can most likely block that off without any detrimental effects... or you could just buy the 'vette pump.
{edit} Fixed the links...
This is the wiring diagram I used (made by Andrew @ AKMcables.com, if I'm not mistaken), though I deviated slightly in order to install an illuminated switch in addition to the two warning LEDs. It works well.
Originally Posted by Taubr Unit
i got a question while were at it... 30 amp relay, is that good enough?? I need to buy one but dont know what 1 to buy. My buddy has a relay that came with his nitrous bottle heater, would that be enough?? He doesnt know what amp it is but im sure its gotta be decent to run a bottle heater right? And im not running any heater hoses to theres 3 ports that are open, i know the top and right/lower one is for the heater hoses but the bottom/left is for????????????? And di i need to loop any of them or just cap um off???
This is a generic diagram I cooked up of the waterpump inlets/outlets. If you're referring to the bottom passenger side, that would be the waterpump outlet / heater inlet hose. If you're referring to the bottom driver's side, that typically goes to the oil cooler on Fbodies (if equipped), then straight to the driver's side radiator. I know that the Y-body pumps don't even have a fitting in this location, so you can most likely block that off without any detrimental effects... or you could just buy the 'vette pump.
{edit} Fixed the links...
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so i plugged the lower right outlet. But after further review with other people. They say i can plug the 2 heater core outlets also. So i dont have a ugly hose connecting both of them toghter. All i need is the 2 coolent outlets and thats it. Any one actually do that?
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Originally Posted by Taubr Unit
so i plugged the lower right outlet. But after further review with other people. They say i can plug the 2 heater core outlets also. So i dont have a ugly hose connecting both of them toghter. All i need is the 2 coolent outlets and thats it. Any one actually do that?
Last edited by thesoundandthefury; Aug 15, 2006 at 12:58 PM.
1 more question to the neverending saga! Theres a tiny hole in the center under the pump. Theres a hole through into the pump. Do i need to plug this hole so coolant doesnt leak out or what.
i got a CSR pump and it did not plug it. Matter of fact, the freeze plug was too small to even plug the big hole. So i made a aluminum block-off plate and welded it to the back to block it off. But theres still the little pin hole thats inbetween the plug and the pump. It looks like coolant would leak right out of it onto my opti. But even if the freeze plug worked, the hole is on the shoulder that it couldnt plug anyways.
