Started car up and security light won't go out.

Any ideas, I tried cleaning the chip on the key (my only key) - and ressetting the computer.

 

it's probably the key cyl. It's common.

 

I had issues with VATS where everyonce in while the park lights would flash on and off non stop along with security light.. Only way is to disconnect battery.

 

I HATE RADIO SHACK - All I did was walk in the door to buy the resistors to bypass the keylock - They didn't even try to help, they told me they don't have resistors and seemed very bothered that I interupted the employee conversation. I won't be shopping there again.

Problem is I think its the only place to buy resistors and such for the next 150 miles ( I live in very rural part of the state).

 

sorry double post.

 

You can order resistors from the radioshack website! They could also order them instore for you ... they were being ******! I have mine bypassed ... and installed a hidden kill switch to still keep some security.

 

Depending on your key value, if you try to bypass the system you will need to link up several (usually 4 or more) resisters together. Couple that with the fact that you don't want to have to cut any wires permanently, I would recommend that you get a bypass for it that will just plug up. You can PM me for details on what you need if you should want to do this.

 

Ok I got the resistor-(from the local auto alarm / remote car start / stereo place) I put in in the place I was supposed to, security light is now off and everything seems fine.

What I am running into is the BCM is still throwning code 25/35

HBH racing - as far as the bypass will it override the entire VATS system? What stuff do I need?

For now the car seems ok, but I would like a better solution if one is available.

 

it does the same general thing you did, but in a more convenient, stable, and non permanent way. The only way to ensure really good contact is to cut the wires and solder in the resisters. Thats permanent. This way you literally plug in a connector harness which can easily be removed should you decide to repair it correctly, and it will not ever come loose.

 

Mine is plugged into the old harness, I was also lucky and found 100 multi pack with the correct resistor in it ... only had to solder one to a harness I rigged up. There are 2 VATS system in our cars ... the one in the ignition will kill the starter, the one in the pcm controls fuel and spark.

 

There is one VATS system, which controls 2 aspects of the anti theft system. The first being the control which will allow the starter relay to engage. The other being the modulated fuel enable signal to the PCM which will allow the injectors to operate. Spark is not effected by the Passkey system.

 

I always though the pcm was fuel and spark! atleast thats what Shoebox always said :\ Oh wells! I knew it was 2 control factors, or aspects ... but yes I misworded and there is one VATS system, that controls seperate aspects! Thanks for clarification.

 

Bypass it, easy thing to do, all it takes its a Voltmeter, and one or a coulpe of resistors from Radio Shack...

 

Check http://shbox.com, there's a chart there you can use to find the right resistor or resistors that you'll be needing according to the pellet on your key, or to identify your VATS number on key ranging from 1-15...

 

Again, don't cut wires, especially wires that carry a specific voltage single since you will have to do a good deal of work to get it right again after you fix it correctly. If your going to Bypass the system, do it right and order the right parts. Yes, $40 is more expensive then $5, but it will never fail, installs in less then 5 mins, and reverts completly back to stock just as easy and with no damage.