LT1 in a g body....... questions inside
LT1 in a g body....... questions inside so i have a 85 regal with a flawless frame and body, with no motor in it, and i can get a 95 caprice with an lt1 in it, with 50k for like 700 bucks. I'm thinking out loud here, what will it take for me to get this drivetrain, into the regal? I'm sure this thing will scoot, these car's are super light. cam and headers will be enough. I want to build a ratrod (flat black, red scallops, rally wheels, etc.... ) Is this an easy swap? i'm remembering, ( if i'm correct ) that an lt1 is the same shortblock as your standard gen1 smallblock, so are parts, etc... easy to come by?
all input welcome!
all input welcome!
I once calculated the *retail* price of all the parts to swap a t56/LS1 into a 3rd gen and it would have cost *me* well over $3,000, IIRC. Sounds simple at first, but the little things eat you up.
But, I put a Chevy 383/TH350 in a '81 V6 cutlass, and that cost me like, a few hundred.
So, no idea how much you'd end up spending.
Isn't the Caprice a 5.3 instead of a 5.7 though?
But, I put a Chevy 383/TH350 in a '81 V6 cutlass, and that cost me like, a few hundred.
So, no idea how much you'd end up spending.
Isn't the Caprice a 5.3 instead of a 5.7 though?
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: South Jersey
Im swapping an LT1/4L60E into a 81 cutlass, if you have a complete donor car you could probably mount the radiator and fan setup in the g body but i dont have the rad and fan setup so im working on that right now.
What i have come across so far that i ve needed to buy is a MPFI frame mount fuel pump im using a carter # P5000, fabbed fuel and powersteering lines since the pump is on the opposite side of the engine and an A/C delete pulley i got mine at advance auto for $38 they want 55 plus shipping on ebay, im using a driveshaft out of a 87 monte 305 with 700r4. Computer wise you need to get a VATS bypass or have it programed out of the ECM a good idea along with gettin rid the EGR and AIR
GET A GOOD DIAGRAM AND TAKE YOUR TIME ON THE HARNESS
What i have come across so far that i ve needed to buy is a MPFI frame mount fuel pump im using a carter # P5000, fabbed fuel and powersteering lines since the pump is on the opposite side of the engine and an A/C delete pulley i got mine at advance auto for $38 they want 55 plus shipping on ebay, im using a driveshaft out of a 87 monte 305 with 700r4. Computer wise you need to get a VATS bypass or have it programed out of the ECM a good idea along with gettin rid the EGR and AIR
GET A GOOD DIAGRAM AND TAKE YOUR TIME ON THE HARNESS
Last edited by 98TA_vert; Sep 1, 2006 at 07:15 PM.
I knew a guy with a mid-80s Monte with a LT1 4l60E and it moved nicely, I am sorry to say that he moved and we have not kept in touch wish I could have put you in contact with him.
Far as the b-body LT1 it is exactly the same shortblock as the f-body LT1 makes a little more torque at a little lower rpm and slightly less peak HP but also consider it did this with grandpa quiet intake and exhaust and 87 octane tuning. With competent aftermarket tuning they make pretty similar power the b-body motor was just put together for a heavy car with highway gears so they gave it a little more lowend. Sometimes I wonder if the f-body cam was actually the detuned one, to limit lowend and try to save that glass axle you guys have. The LT1 b-body got an 8.5" which is pretty bulletproof other than the Auburn posi(opional) likes to wearout but no so much actually break.
One possible benifit to using a b-body LT1 is for emmsions purposes they are factory true dual exhaust, even the 4.3L L99 had dual cats(but a y-pipe after)
Far as the b-body LT1 it is exactly the same shortblock as the f-body LT1 makes a little more torque at a little lower rpm and slightly less peak HP but also consider it did this with grandpa quiet intake and exhaust and 87 octane tuning. With competent aftermarket tuning they make pretty similar power the b-body motor was just put together for a heavy car with highway gears so they gave it a little more lowend. Sometimes I wonder if the f-body cam was actually the detuned one, to limit lowend and try to save that glass axle you guys have. The LT1 b-body got an 8.5" which is pretty bulletproof other than the Auburn posi(opional) likes to wearout but no so much actually break.
One possible benifit to using a b-body LT1 is for emmsions purposes they are factory true dual exhaust, even the 4.3L L99 had dual cats(but a y-pipe after)
