ASM Monoblade on a SR 396
09-08-2006, 04:05 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by blkchevyz
234 243 600 600 112
i might be a few off on the duration but its around there somewhere.
i might be a few off on the duration but its around there somewhere.
"BRETTINATOR" That cam looks pretty healthy and from what I'v been told by others, that area Mechanical Roller cam works very well for Strokers. I was looking at going that route with a 256/260 on a 106 or 108 LSA (auto car, need that mid range). But still undecided... Rock on at the drags and keep us posted.....
09-08-2006, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jimbob
"BRETTINATOR" That cam looks pretty healthy and from what I'v been told by others, that area Mechanical Roller cam works very well for Strokers. I was looking at going that route with a 256/260 on a 106 or 108 LSA (auto car, need that mid range). But still undecided... Rock on at the drags and keep us posted.....
09-09-2006, 12:20 AM
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Keep us posted on how it runs. My new LT1 stroker has a big solid roller as well. 647 lift 266-272@50 106 LSA; auto trans. Did the monoblade gain power? I wanted to add one but heard the idle is a pain in the *** to get under control. Apparently, you have found a way to make it manageable.
09-09-2006, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Built LT1
Keep us posted on how it runs. My new LT1 stroker has a big solid roller as well. 647 lift 266-272@50 106 LSA; auto trans. Did the monoblade gain power? I wanted to add one but heard the idle is a pain in the *** to get under control. Apparently, you have found a way to make it manageable.
09-09-2006, 03:35 AM
#25
Brett. no need to drill a nole. There is more then enough surface area to crack the blades and not screw up the TPS readings 
I just do not understand all this hole drilling going on!
I would crack the blades untill you have nearly zero IAC hot in 'p' and 'n'. then readjust the TPS to read .60-.65v.
the biggest reason for problems is the ultra short intake runnings.
BTW I am thinking Jims car will 60ft 1.4xx next time out on my street tires
I just do not understand all this hole drilling going on!
I would crack the blades untill you have nearly zero IAC hot in 'p' and 'n'. then readjust the TPS to read .60-.65v.
the biggest reason for problems is the ultra short intake runnings.
BTW I am thinking Jims car will 60ft 1.4xx next time out on my street tires
09-09-2006, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
Brett. no need to drill a nole. There is more then enough surface area to crack the blades and not screw up the TPS readings
I just do not understand all this hole drilling going on!
I would crack the blades untill you have nearly zero IAC hot in 'p' and 'n'. then readjust the TPS to read .60-.65v.
the biggest reason for problems is the ultra short intake runnings.
BTW I am thinking Jims car will 60ft 1.4xx next time out on my street tires
I just do not understand all this hole drilling going on!
I would crack the blades untill you have nearly zero IAC hot in 'p' and 'n'. then readjust the TPS to read .60-.65v.
the biggest reason for problems is the ultra short intake runnings.
BTW I am thinking Jims car will 60ft 1.4xx next time out on my street tires
Dude 1.4 on street tires???? that's crazy...what ya got up in that thang...a HEMI?
09-09-2006, 01:57 PM
#27
Brett I am talking the park and nuetral settings. it was late and I forgot your car was a stick
so basicly just set it up to idle at 0-5 IAC counts by opening the blade. then shut the car off and restart it to make sure it is still there. this needs to be done with the car good and hot.
Once you have that done reset the TPS to .60-.65v. with the car off. turn the car off then back on again a few times and make sure it stayed.
Also make sure the Ports under the TB is blocked off and not going to the PCV or any thing else.
BTW last time we had Jimbobs car out we were running out of fuel(fuel pump dieing) on my M/T ET Street DRs 275/49-17s and yanking the wheels to 1.51 60fts She was falling on her face well before the 60ft. His car leaves WAY harder then mine!
so basicly just set it up to idle at 0-5 IAC counts by opening the blade. then shut the car off and restart it to make sure it is still there. this needs to be done with the car good and hot.
Once you have that done reset the TPS to .60-.65v. with the car off. turn the car off then back on again a few times and make sure it stayed.
Also make sure the Ports under the TB is blocked off and not going to the PCV or any thing else.
BTW last time we had Jimbobs car out we were running out of fuel(fuel pump dieing) on my M/T ET Street DRs 275/49-17s and yanking the wheels to 1.51 60fts
She was falling on her face well before the 60ft. His car leaves WAY harder then mine!
09-09-2006, 04:12 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
Brett I am talking the park and nuetral settings. it was late and I forgot your car was a stick
so basicly just set it up to idle at 0-5 IAC counts by opening the blade. then shut the car off and restart it to make sure it is still there. this needs to be done with the car good and hot.
Once you have that done reset the TPS to .60-.65v. with the car off. turn the car off then back on again a few times and make sure it stayed.
Also make sure the Ports under the TB is blocked off and not going to the PCV or any thing else.
BTW last time we had Jimbobs car out we were running out of fuel(fuel pump dieing) on my M/T ET Street DRs 275/49-17s and yanking the wheels to 1.51 60fts She was falling on her face well before the 60ft. His car leaves WAY harder then mine!
so basicly just set it up to idle at 0-5 IAC counts by opening the blade. then shut the car off and restart it to make sure it is still there. this needs to be done with the car good and hot.
Once you have that done reset the TPS to .60-.65v. with the car off. turn the car off then back on again a few times and make sure it stayed.
Also make sure the Ports under the TB is blocked off and not going to the PCV or any thing else.
BTW last time we had Jimbobs car out we were running out of fuel(fuel pump dieing) on my M/T ET Street DRs 275/49-17s and yanking the wheels to 1.51 60fts
She was falling on her face well before the 60ft. His car leaves WAY harder then mine!
09-09-2006, 10:18 PM
#29
Originally Posted by BRETTINATOR
He's an auto as well? Man that's a good 60'. Thanks for clarifying the settings, all the ports are blocked except for the IAC. The ASM unlike Holley or BBK do not come with the vacuum fittings on the passenger side, as for the bottom it's just the IAC and I'm sure you're not talking about blocking that off.
My TPIs MONO we are putting on Jimbobs car also does not have the side ports
09-10-2006, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
No just the port in the intake under the TB on the front of the intake. you had to cut into it to open up the intake for the Mono
My TPIs MONO we are putting on Jimbobs car also does not have the side ports
My TPIs MONO we are putting on Jimbobs car also does not have the side ports
09-10-2006, 05:39 PM
#31
"CamMotions custom grind, it's on a 110lsa, around 250 something 260 something duration w/around .690 something lift."
Wow you make my cam sound small, 240/248 112 630 CC
Wow you make my cam sound small, 240/248 112 630 CC
09-10-2006, 08:34 PM
#32
Originally Posted by BRETTINATOR
Are you serious? See I saw a post on here and it was just cut like mine is now and not blocked. It's just a crankcase vent pulling the oil vapors into the engine to burn up and run cleaner emmissions right? If that's the case then great I'll just block it and remove the tubing from the driver side...plug that too. So that has nothing to do with the IAC settings?
Yes if you have some thing going into that hole it feeds the IAC passages directly even if the IAC is closed.
Now it is open to the plenum. not a big deal but I would close it off and run vents to a vacuum pump
09-10-2006, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
Yes if you have some thing going into that hole it feeds the IAC passages directly even if the IAC is closed.
Now it is open to the plenum. not a big deal but I would close it off and run vents to a vacuum pump
Now it is open to the plenum. not a big deal but I would close it off and run vents to a vacuum pump
Blk97Z I basically gave LME my goals on all-motor and they worked with CamMotions to come up with the right combo. I really wanted a lower lsa but with the 12:5:1 compression he wanted to keep the car pump gas streetable.
09-11-2006, 05:41 PM
#35
Originally Posted by BRETTINATOR
Gotcha! Well I could sure use some vacuum pump ideas, I do NOT like what I'm using which are billet breathers which look cool but are not allowing enough CP out of the block. I considered the venturi style vacuum setup but optioned for a pump of some sorts, honestly don't know where to start. Local LS1 here came up with some sort of vacuum pump for his build which benchmarked a before/after 10rwhp gain. If you have some pointers, tips, links, etc pm me or drop some info here please, thanks man.
Blk97Z I basically gave LME my goals on all-motor and they worked with CamMotions to come up with the right combo. I really wanted a lower lsa but with the 12:5:1 compression he wanted to keep the car pump gas streetable.
Blk97Z I basically gave LME my goals on all-motor and they worked with CamMotions to come up with the right combo. I really wanted a lower lsa but with the 12:5:1 compression he wanted to keep the car pump gas streetable.
10 rwhp is what I saw also. I bought mine in kit form from Reher & Morrison Racing Engines in Arlington TX. Only had to buy one bolt to install it. You will run richer with the pump, I had to lean mine 5% when I put the belt on the first time. 5 more rwhp right away, the other five after I leaned it back down.
Good luck, Ed
09-11-2006, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
10 rwhp is what I saw also. I bought mine in kit form from Reher & Morrison Racing Engines in Arlington TX. Only had to buy one bolt to install it. You will run richer with the pump, I had to lean mine 5% when I put the belt on the first time. 5 more rwhp right away, the other five after I leaned it back down.
Good luck, Ed
Good luck, Ed
