Well I have decided to go with a solid roller this time around.

I had a 306 on a 114 in the car before with 1.6 rockers

Looking for a good road course cam with some strong midrange and that rapps up pretty quickly with a max rpm of about 6800 or so.

Motor is a 383 LT1 with a D1SC with 12-15psi of boost (changing pullyes as well this time around)

I know for sure that I am going to be using Jessel shaft mount rockers

Now the questions..

Durations?
Lifts?
LS?
advance?
rocker ratios?
good quality lifter?

Since the lopes are a different shape on a solid roller cam should I go with a big rocker ratio or go with a big ratio rocker and not such a high duration?

I was thinking something around a 240/255 .575/.600 lift...or something like that.

I don't care to much about idle quality as long as it runs and doesn't die.

Who would be a good place to call about getting custom grinds done?

Thanks for help in advance

 

my personal choice is Cam Motion. but you can call them, Comp Cams, Isky, Crane, Crower, Lunati etc. any of them will have a far better idea what would be best for your car than any of us on here would

 

Why go solid roller on a blower motor?

Are you shooting for 800+ rwhp?

 

It would be much easier to just stay with a hydraulic set up, especially for a blower. You can easily get away with that much lift with out having to go solid. Just get some Comp type R lifters and call up Cam Motion for a grind that suits your set up the best. I don't think you'll benefit that much from switching, it'd be cheaper and easier to maintain just getting another cam and some comp r's. I wouldn't consider moving to solid unless I wanted .620 + lift and reving 7000+ rpm.

Which I did because I have .672 lift and plan on shifting @ ~7300 rpm or so.

If you just have the money to burn, then go for it, it would be nice...and probably a bit more responsive in respect, blower cars are hella responsive anyway via good tuning. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Comp has some good lifters for the LT1, I'm running the 873's. There are better ones but some require some block machining. Good luck with your decision.

P

 

SOLID!

 

I would stay hyd in a blower application personally, but if you have money and plan on reving (with a BIG blower), the solid is the way to go.

Jason

 

Yeah I saw your car INTMD8 and I really hope that mine puts out at least that much, you have a pretty damn cool car man <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

I guess there are a few reason I had thought about going solid....keep in mind now I have never used one and this is just some things I had been thinking about.

1. I could make it run almost stock while still having a big cam in it (from what I have heard you can get away with a big solid and still have it pretty normal due to the different lope design)

2. I had heard from some Mustang guys with blowers that they were having problems with lifters collapsing from the cylinder pressures with a lot of boost.

3. More responsive

4. Don't have to worry about valves floating.

Just something different...and trying to pick up some power while I have the motor apart.

Like I said this is just something that I have seen, and it seems that the guys using solid roller cams do pick up quite a bit of power when they do swap over.

oh...I do have Comp R lifters in the motor right now. I was having a lot of valve train problems with the CC306 (on a 114) and my rockers.....kept breaking studs and it just never seemed to want to stay adjusted right.....

Now I'm not going to spin the motor really crazy rpm's....maybe 6800 or so max rpm, I do want it to live for a little while. I don't plan on putting a ton of miles on the car each year so I don't think adjustment is going to get to me to much. I do plan on road racing (open track events..that sorta stuff) so I need something pretty sable for track use.

 

To answer your questions:

1. You can still make it run like stock (idle, driveability) with a hyd....that is the good thing about blowers <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> You dont need a big cam. Jim's car idles like stock.

2. Many guys have had blowers on their cars for year without lifter collapse. LT1 lifters are pretty durable, esp Comp "R"s. I reved the "R" lifters to 7000 everyday back when I was hyd. roller.

3. Not really, compression is more of a factor there. Any cam that pulls decent vacuum will be fine.

4. You are not going to float valves anyway if you are reving to 6800.

The additional cost/maintainence of a solid roller is not really worth it in a street car. You may make 15hp more, but for $1000+ additional along with maintainence I think it is a waste in a blown street car.

Just my opinion.

Jason

 

I would have to agree that staying hydrolic is the way to go. You could easily spend upwards of $2000 switching to solid just for about 15 more hp and a little better driveability. You would have to get a new cam, lifters, pacaloy springs, machine work on the heads for the pirches, 7/16 rockers and studs(if you don't already have them), tall poly locks (for the stud girdle), stud girdle, tall valve covers, then your gaksets and fluids.

I am building a 383 for either an S or T trim. I decided to stay with the hyd because of cost and less maintence. With a blower you really dont need to spin to 7000+ rpm and you can run plenty of lift with the hyd setup and still make alot of power.

Scott

 

Well I can tell you right now it isn't going to cost quite that much.

Using a Jessel shaft mount system, I was having problems snapping rocker studs before so this was always in the plan to switch over to anyway. Getting a good deal from a friend on these as well

The heads are cracked and had to be redone anyway from when the crank snapped....getting a good deal on the machine work...so there again...no huge cost.

Cam and lifters $700

Other than that....I really don't see what the big cost is?

The motor probably isn't going to last that long anyway before it needs to be gone thru...maybe 30k miles depending on how much track time it sees?

With it not being a daily driver....I don't see how I'm going to have to re lash the valves all the time...maybe 2 times a year at tops.

From most of the engine shops that I have talked to...they seem to agree that no it isn't going to make huge amounts of power over what a similar hyd cam would...but it will rev faster, give more lift under the curve, make some more power than a hyd roller of the same size, and not throw as big of a fit as a bigger hyd. cam would. A few of them said that if I ever did decided to run a lot of boost in the motor that having a solid roller would be a little safer because you would not have valve sealing problems assosiated with hyd. cams. I know a few Mustang guys that have had lifters collapse and valves float on them (granted their lifters are a little different)

I have just seen a lot of guys have realy good luck with solid rollers with pretty much no problems at all. And a lot of the LS1 guys making a lot of power with them....just figured it would be one more thing to do while I'm in there to help it out a little more.

 

Take it from someone who has a solid roller setup....you are in for alot more than $700. You are not even including springs which alone are $275-325 depending on which ones. On top of that, you will have to have your spring seats machined to accept the larger diameter springs. From there, you will have to buy new Ti retainers ($115+), etc... Research it all out before you jump into something like this....it is more involved that you may think.

$1500 for 15hp? Not worth it in a blown application.

Just my opinion though

<small>[ November 21, 2002, 11:22 PM: Message edited by: JasonShort ]</small>