cam on higher milage lt1
#2
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all depends. iF the motor is in healthy shape, it could fine just fine. The major problem seems to be is people having a hard time keeping everything clean while doing the install, and not getting dirt into the engine.
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ive been told about the bearings. Motor is in top shape. ran mobil 1 synthetic and change oil every 3k miles.
150k on yours? ouch my baby hasnt moved in about 2 months. Bottomed out real bad and somehow managed to puncture a clutch line and cant engage clutch. so figure id save a little and put in my stage 3 clutch along with updated hydros and get that t-56 rebuilt... all i need is time
150k on yours? ouch my baby hasnt moved in about 2 months. Bottomed out real bad and somehow managed to puncture a clutch line and cant engage clutch. so figure id save a little and put in my stage 3 clutch along with updated hydros and get that t-56 rebuilt... all i need is time
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Im putting that same cam in my car, unless i find something better then i might sell it. but anyways im going with comp 918 springs, come seats and retainers, trickflow chromoly push rods, 16. rr's, elec. h2o pump and im doing the 95+ opti swap. hopefully this info helps
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another question, im just trying to learn more about valvetrains. What difference does the rocker stud # and ratio # make? and whats better for a big cam self-aligning or non-self aligning?
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its a gamble with that many miles... its up to you but usually with that many miles people usually end up spinning a bearing... so i would wait and do a whole refresh on the engine... then do the cam... that way you know all the bearings are good... and the rings are new...
#17
the biggest strain is really the fact at how high you tend to want to spin the motor with the 306. at 130k, the bearings, and rings should be in pretty good shape if they were taken care of. BUT, every engine will be different.