Recipe sharing
Recipe sharing Just picked up a spare LT1 motor, supposed to have 2500 miles on it, looks ok, haven't torn into it yet. Toyed with procharging, stroking, what not. I did a search about both and found 100,000 opinions on either or both, heads, cam grinds, etc.
Anyone want to share their recipe for success? I was thinking about doing a winter project motor that I could drop in when spring hits, but not sure if I want to go N/A or a blower, or stroker or both. Other threads give opinions, I'm looking for "well I did this:----- and got this:----" kinda answers.
Anyone wanna give it up?
Anyone want to share their recipe for success? I was thinking about doing a winter project motor that I could drop in when spring hits, but not sure if I want to go N/A or a blower, or stroker or both. Other threads give opinions, I'm looking for "well I did this:----- and got this:----" kinda answers.
Anyone wanna give it up?
383, big heads, big cam
D1-sc, twin intercooled 15ish psi, custom fuel system, lotsa 'other' stuff, too much money! Results, dont know yet, hope I didnt make a fuel system good for 8xxfwhp for nothing
Almost done, maybe a few weeks (or months) to go.
FWIW my stock motor did 450rwhp (500ish fwhp) with 10psi from the D1sc and nothing else but exhaust mods.
D1-sc, twin intercooled 15ish psi, custom fuel system, lotsa 'other' stuff, too much money! Results, dont know yet, hope I didnt make a fuel system good for 8xxfwhp for nothing
Almost done, maybe a few weeks (or months) to go.
FWIW my stock motor did 450rwhp (500ish fwhp) with 10psi from the D1sc and nothing else but exhaust mods.
Solid can be streetable... But not daily driver streetable. Too much upkeep IMO.
Its not just for NA. Solid roller would get you the most NA HP possible, same for boost. Solid Roller just makes more power whether FI, NA, N20, whatever. Comes down to more lift, more duration, faster opening/closing events.
Its not just for NA. Solid roller would get you the most NA HP possible, same for boost. Solid Roller just makes more power whether FI, NA, N20, whatever. Comes down to more lift, more duration, faster opening/closing events.
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Also something I would note is that if you're going to run boost, hydraulic would be fine cuz you can make your power with the blower. That way you won't have the upkeep of the solid roller. Also duration on blower cams won't be as high as a NA cam so valve float isn't a concern where you would ideally turn the solid roller cam higher where the power lies. Don't get me wrong, small solid will make more power, but with a blower it's not as neccessary.
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Originally Posted by dhdenney
Also something I would note is that if you're going to run boost, hydraulic would be fine cuz you can make your power with the blower. That way you won't have the upkeep of the solid roller. Also duration on blower cams won't be as high as a NA cam so valve float isn't a concern where you would ideally turn the solid roller cam higher where the power lies. Don't get me wrong, small solid will make more power, but with a blower it's not as neccessary.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 875
Likes: 0
From: Finland
Originally Posted by Fire67
...
FWIW my stock motor did 450rwhp (500ish fwhp) with 10psi from the D1sc and nothing else but exhaust mods.
FWIW my stock motor did 450rwhp (500ish fwhp) with 10psi from the D1sc and nothing else but exhaust mods.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 92
Likes: 1
From: Chattanooga, TN.
When I first built my engine I had the following:
383 all forged
16cc dish pistons (around 10.6 cr with 53.6cc combustion chambers)
CC305 on a 112 lsa/ 1.6 roller rockers--intake/ 1.5 on exhaust
Mildly ported stock heads
30 lb injectors
Hooker LTs/Borla Catback
Electric water pump
54mm AS&M throttle body
M6 tranny
Ford 9"--3.89 gear
Results: 365rwhp/388rwtq Cam leveled off at about 5700rpm and started to drop off at around 6100. 8.32 in the 1/8th with a bad (2.01) 60' on Nitto drag radials.
Should have spent more on better heads--especially on a stroker!!!
Also should have left it alone 'cause it was a good street setup. But no, I had to do this:
Added a used ProCharger P1SC--6lb pully (too much compression for a lot of boost)
50lb injectors
Water/Alcohol injection for intercooling (tried the ProCharger 2 core intercooler mounted under the car--2 inches of ground clearance for the scoop just doesn't get it)
4L80E tranny with manual valve body
Results: 446 rwhp/514 rwtq--this was with the CC305 cam which really isn't a blower cam, but not too bad in my opinion. Also the 4L80E robs you of some hp. 7.91 in the 1/8--again with a 2.00 60' on 315 Nitto drag radials. Have bought some ProStars with Hoosier Quick Time Pros but haven't run them yet. With the auto and all that torque, it probably would have run better with a higher rearend gear, 3.50 or 3.25--1st gear was useless.
Now, I am just finishing up this project:
Back to the M6
Custom Blower Cam
Jesel shaft mounted 1.6 rockers
Kooks 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 headers with 4" inch exhaust
BMR Extreme Duty Torque Arm--I bent my Spohn TA the last time at the strip running drag radials!
No dyno or track times yet.
Hope this helps.
383 all forged
16cc dish pistons (around 10.6 cr with 53.6cc combustion chambers)
CC305 on a 112 lsa/ 1.6 roller rockers--intake/ 1.5 on exhaust
Mildly ported stock heads
30 lb injectors
Hooker LTs/Borla Catback
Electric water pump
54mm AS&M throttle body
M6 tranny
Ford 9"--3.89 gear
Results: 365rwhp/388rwtq Cam leveled off at about 5700rpm and started to drop off at around 6100. 8.32 in the 1/8th with a bad (2.01) 60' on Nitto drag radials.
Should have spent more on better heads--especially on a stroker!!!
Also should have left it alone 'cause it was a good street setup. But no, I had to do this:
Added a used ProCharger P1SC--6lb pully (too much compression for a lot of boost)
50lb injectors
Water/Alcohol injection for intercooling (tried the ProCharger 2 core intercooler mounted under the car--2 inches of ground clearance for the scoop just doesn't get it)
4L80E tranny with manual valve body
Results: 446 rwhp/514 rwtq--this was with the CC305 cam which really isn't a blower cam, but not too bad in my opinion. Also the 4L80E robs you of some hp. 7.91 in the 1/8--again with a 2.00 60' on 315 Nitto drag radials. Have bought some ProStars with Hoosier Quick Time Pros but haven't run them yet. With the auto and all that torque, it probably would have run better with a higher rearend gear, 3.50 or 3.25--1st gear was useless.
Now, I am just finishing up this project:
Back to the M6
Custom Blower Cam
Jesel shaft mounted 1.6 rockers
Kooks 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 headers with 4" inch exhaust
BMR Extreme Duty Torque Arm--I bent my Spohn TA the last time at the strip running drag radials!
No dyno or track times yet.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by David94TA; Oct 11, 2006 at 06:56 AM.
Originally Posted by David94TA
Added a used ProCharger P1SC--6lb pully (too much compression for a lot of boost)
50lb injectors
Water/Alcohol injection for intercooling (tried the ProCharger 2 core intercooler mounted under the car--2 inches of ground clearance for the scoop just doesn't get it)
Hope this helps.
50lb injectors
Water/Alcohol injection for intercooling (tried the ProCharger 2 core intercooler mounted under the car--2 inches of ground clearance for the scoop just doesn't get it)
Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by juicedimpss
how fast do you want to go? there are a million recipes for millions of different ets.
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Dr. Teeth
As fast as I can, but I refuse to butcher this car, meaning no tubs. Cage and SFCs ok, but no tubs.
that is possible with a "stock suspension" car.....
what do you plan to do with the car,possibilities are as endless as you wallet.
I have a friend who was ready to bite the bullet,he wanted an 8 second ride.he decided after looking at the costs involved with not only building the car,but the maintenence and cost of taking it out for 1 day of pleasure that maybe he was more suited to a igh 9 to mid 10 sec car instead.
Again,what is your goal with the car.
Originally Posted by juicedimpss
ok,so you want to go in the 8's?
that is possible with a "stock suspension" car.....
what do you plan to do with the car,possibilities are as endless as you wallet.
I have a friend who was ready to bite the bullet,he wanted an 8 second ride.he decided after looking at the costs involved with not only building the car,but the maintenence and cost of taking it out for 1 day of pleasure that maybe he was more suited to a igh 9 to mid 10 sec car instead.
Again,what is your goal with the car.
that is possible with a "stock suspension" car.....
what do you plan to do with the car,possibilities are as endless as you wallet.
I have a friend who was ready to bite the bullet,he wanted an 8 second ride.he decided after looking at the costs involved with not only building the car,but the maintenence and cost of taking it out for 1 day of pleasure that maybe he was more suited to a igh 9 to mid 10 sec car instead.
Again,what is your goal with the car.
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Central Wisconsin
Originally Posted by Fire67
Solid can be streetable... But not daily driver streetable. Too much upkeep IMO.
Its not just for NA. Solid roller would get you the most NA HP possible, same for boost. Solid Roller just makes more power whether FI, NA, N20, whatever. Comes down to more lift, more duration, faster opening/closing events.
Its not just for NA. Solid roller would get you the most NA HP possible, same for boost. Solid Roller just makes more power whether FI, NA, N20, whatever. Comes down to more lift, more duration, faster opening/closing events.
Originally Posted by ToxicTA
I am running a solid roller from Lingenfelter and is not only streeable but also a daily driver I drive 30 miles in one direction to get to work. I just have to pull the covers and check the valve lash each time I check the oil. Takes an extra 45 minutes and the last time I changed oil I really only needed to adjust one exhaust valve. Now that everything is settled (8000 miles on it) I will check it the next time I change the oil and if everything is good I will then change it to checking them every 2 oil chages or 4000 miles. I change mine at 2000 miles. IMO solids idle better, rev higher and make better HP on the top and lets not forget the sound of a solid roller on the street when you are sitting at the light.
You care to run through the details of your solid roller valve adjustment? Do you use a feeler gauge or do you just do the "preload/lash/quarter turn" method?
