i have a friend with 1994 camaro and we looked under his hood and there is pretty much no smog/emissions ****. pretty much just have the motor with the fuel lines and its still a injected one. well i have a 1995 TA and was wondering how hard it is to get rid of half the crap that isnt needed under the hood but still keep it a injected car. i am in KS and there isnt emmisions crap soo.. anything can go. i just want to be able to work on it like his. be able to pull headers off from top and not have to hassle with ****. Please help me and tell me the stuff that isnt really needed if you know what i mean

 

unless you plan on wanting gigantic exhaust leaks or if you are getting headers get ones race style and they will not come with emission hooks up, that way you can remove the air pump and block off the EGR.

hope this helps

 

how hard is it to block off everything. also will it run like crap if i get rid of the pump. i hear from some it will throw a code and others not. but i just want to know if it will change the way my car runs.

 

Tune the chip w/o Smog/EGR and it won't toss any codes And you'll have to pull the intake to block the EGR off, it's on the WAAAAAAAAAAAAY back of the intake up against the firewall.

 

Well, first and foremost, I'm assuming the majority of the junk he threw out were AIR/EGR related (ie, the smog equipment). In this case, AIR (secondary air injection) is most responsible for engine bay clutter. If you don't know what these systems are or what they do, we can elaborate.

AIR and EGR connections
Electric AIR pump (located next to waterpump on driver's side engine)
EGR vacuum solenoid
EGR valve (mounted on rear of intake manifold)

In my experience, you can remove these systems on the 1994-1995 OBD1 vehicles without throwing codes so long as:

1) You keep a good AIR pump fuse installed (25A in underhood fuse box)
2) You keep the EGR vacuum solenoid electrical harness connected (though you'll want to block off the vacuum ports to prevent a vacuum leak).


Removal basically consists of tearing everything out and blocking any holes left open by the parts:

-AIR has three connections: one on the intake ductwork which serves as an intake for the pump, and then one port on each exhaust manifold (usually blocked by an M16 or M22 drain plug from NAPA, depending on exhaust manifold/header type -- you'll have to gauge the threads. A simple bolt from Ace Hardware worked on my FLP's, though they use a 1996-style AIR fitting).

-EGR technically has 5 connections of note: the EGR pipe connecting from the passenger exhaust manifold to the intake manifold will leave a hole in each; the EGR valve will leave a hole in the intake manifold as well as leave a vacuum control hose open (which needs to be capped off); and again we have the vacuum solenoid lines (which can be blocked off with a single vacuum cap).


That's a pretty brief overview -- you'll have to do more research on your own before attempting this. You'll want to check out Ebay or SJM Manufacturing for blockoff plates.