Well im pushing 540+hp right now.

Lets hope everything stays in its place!

Tony.

 

AH-HAH! That makes more sense! Thanks

Yea I def think having the whole rotating assembly balanced would help loads! Other than with the obvious power and reving that is.

 

Monday, Oct 30th. Supposedly no spectators, only two or three crew members. I have two guys coming with me, you can be the third if you want. Might be interesting. Drop me an email if you think you want to go, we'll figure where to meet up. (ed-wright at sbcglobal.net) We are supposed to be at the gate at 8:30am. They said it will last all day, I have no idea how many cars are coming. Not near as many Lt1s as LS1s. No suprise there, anybody with any sense would build an LS1.

Take care, Ed

 

yes, but your 540 fwhp so it should be around 440 +/- rwhp, so you should be fine, untill you spray that is. by the way, I am surprised that you stayed 2 bolt with your goals.

 

im looking at a car that before tuned dyno 429 rwhp with no engine problems just needed a good tune put on it to run smoth and everything. well after the tune he hit 490 rwhp and within 15 minutes of running on the way home it spun a bearing. do you think it should be splayed or what. im trying to buy the car for the motor 0and other parts tomorrow and then sell the rest.

 

Uhhh yeah. 490rwhp = almost 600hp.... but don't listen to me the spun bearing already told you what you need to know.

Bret

 

how much does it usually cost to get one splayed and what all is involved? i have never had it done before.

 

your machine shop should know. tell them your plans. if they dont you will need to find a better machine shop. they may even suggest some hard block. thats a lot of HP for these factory blocks. i have know idea how much HP these block can take.

 

well this is what he has done to the motor.

ENGINE
short block 385 cid .040 over with a 3.75 stroke crankshaft
3.75" stroke steel crankshaft / internally balanced
SRP forged Pistons .040 over / sealed power rings
6" Eagle H Beam rods
Canton Oil Pan
Blueprinted and flow tested Oil Pump with canton pickup
ARP main studs

heads, valve-train, intake 2.0 intalke 1.57 exhaust REV stainless valves
ported cylinder heads
Titanium retainers
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6R Rockers
Comp Hi Tech Pushrods 5/16
Manley Guide Plates
Comp Solid Lifters
ARP Pro Series Lifter studs 7/16 -7/16
COMP Solid Roller 248-254 .614-.622 lift with 1.6rr 112LS - 4'advanced
Arp head bolts
ARP main studs
ARP Cam Bolts
Ported intake manifold
Holley 58mm throttle body
30lb / hour injectors

 

what kind of crank is it? i would have them check the crank for fractures and straightness and check the block again for damage. at that level of HP a spun bearing can carry alot more damage withit. that thing has got to rev like a damn motorcycle. that cam is huge for a small block. also check to see if you are having oiling problems. high strung engines are prone to cavitation. i did it once myself and it cost a new crank and an align bore. i like splayed caps becuase they pull from the "skirt" of the block instead of the web, and tend to aid in locating the cap alot better. though i don't think it is very cheap. ever think of an aftermarket block? they make for great insurance and limitless HP.

 

well this motor is in a perfectly fine 94 z28 and hes got over 20k in reciepts and the car in a whole only has 105k miles. the motor only has 1k miles. hes selling it for $4500. also the top end is all mechanical. i just wanted the motor for my t/a and sell the rest. heres everything he has

94 Camaro / 385ci / 6-speed / Great paint job!

INTERIOR
Autometer Sport-Comp Montster tach with shift light
Clarion CD player
Hurst Shifter
Gray leather interior

EXTERIOR
Sun Coast Creations functional hood
Side-mirrors painted body color - not factory!!
Headlight area painted body color instead of black - looks much better!

ENGINE
short block 385 cid .040 over with a 3.75 stroke crankshaft
3.75" stroke steel crankshaft / internally balanced
SRP forged Pistons .040 over / sealed power rings
6" Eagle H Beam rods
Canton Oil Pan
Blueprinted and flow tested Oil Pump with canton pickup
ARP main studs

heads, valve-train, intake 2.0 intalke 1.57 exhaust REV stainless valves
ported cylinder heads
Titanium retainers
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6R Rockers
Comp Hi Tech Pushrods 5/16
Manley Guide Plates
Comp Solid Lifters
ARP Pro Series Lifter studs 7/16 -7/16
COMP Solid Roller 248-254 .614-.622 lift with 1.6rr 112LS - 4'advanced
Arp head bolts
ARP main studs
ARP Cam Bolts
Ported intake manifold
Holley 58mm throttle body
30lb / hour injectors

CHASSIS Mods
Rear End - Strange 12 bolt, Heavy Duty Carrier with 3.73 gears
Metco Lower Control arms
1LE Aluminum driveshaft
Subframe Connectors

MISCELLANEOUS MARCH Power-n-Amps series Crank and alternator pulleys
275/50/16 Mickey Thompson ET street 26" tires on factory rims
ARP crank to flywheel bolts
Custom tuned computer by Atlanta Chassis Dyno
Arp balance bolt
ARP headers studs 12 pt.
Hooker Super competition headers - ceramic coated
Mufflex 4inch exhaust system
MSD 6AL ignition
MSD Blaster coil
Meziere Electric Water Pump!
Tinted Windows
McLeod Twin Disc Clutch
255 lph in-tank fuel pump
skip shift eliminator

 

oh and he said it lost oil pressure at the same time as bearing. he shut it off immediately and has not started it since

 

I've seen 476 rwhp on the dyno and that was before a few tweeks that picked me up .1 and 1.5 mph at the track. Took it to 7300-7500 on stock crank and 2 bolt mains. After 5 years or running it hard its down for a rebuild. Bearings showed wear but could have kept going.

 

he said the bearing spun then lost oil pressure so i dont know what went wrong

 

So you want to buy that problem? It ain't going to be cheap to fix..... usually people sell that because they don't have the coin to fix it.

bret

 

I'm making over 500rwhp on the stock bottom end.