Part 1 - deals with the test i did on the opti (opti seemed to be good)
Part 2 - deals with the ltcc and it not working


PART 1

well i figured it would happen lol. Ok well we installed it and no spark!
I have tested my optispark and it read that it was ok... let me explain how i tested it...
opti off ( i had it in storage and needed to see if it was good, it had about 1500 miles on it when i took it off, turned out the icm was bad on that occasion)
on the opti harness while connected to the opti: (letters are the pins on the harness)
-d: negative source
-c: 12v source
then tested the opti
a to positive on dc scale and d to negative on dc scale. slowly turned opti and read constantly between 1v-5v

b to positive on dc scale and d to negative on dc scale, slowly turned opti and read constantly between 1v-5v

so i also tested my bad opti's (2 of them) and didnt even get readings... SO I FIGURE, i repeat FIGURE my opti is good, so i installed it! But why do i ahve a feeling I will be eating these words.


PART 2

i did the 20 seconds of cranking this morning to see if i caould get a code an di dont see any blinking action.

So we put the coils on the valve covers, connect them to the designated spark plugs, and ground the coils. On the 4 fuel rail bolts i have 2 coils gounded on each one (a good ground imo).

Well the 4 wires now: White, Yellow (we are not going to mention because i do not have nitrous), and the 2 pink wires.

White- we cut the B terminal wire on the ICM (yellow color, my car is a 1996 formula) and connected it with a female connector. Is this the right wire to connect to?

2 Pink wires - we spliced them and connected them to the coil wire... NOW there were 2 wires from the coil a green one and a pinkish one. The green one just went to the ICM so we assumed it was the pink. We cut the pink wire form the coil and attached it with a female connector with the 2 pink wires from the ltcc. I do get 12 v from the wire at KOEO so it seems to be good.

now the fuse: replaced a 20 fuse for the ignition.

all 4 DIP switches are on the off position
retard- 0
rev lim- 4 (6400)

I have 12v power at the coils.

Cranked the car and NOTHING!!! she just cranks, fuel pump goes on and all so i disconnect a wire and put a plug to it and ground the plug to see if we can crank the car and see spark... nothing.

Well the weird thing is, when we turn the key to KOEO the ltcc lights up with a fast blink, green then red, and then they both shut off and thats it, and the lights never some on again. I do not notice any lights while cranking either. soo what do i do? any ideas?

I just checked the the a and b pins on the ltcc box and i do get a 4-5v reading, and it says that those are the high and low res signals form the opti... and i get voltage.

things that could be bad....
1) opti - if it is bad i would die from amazement, but a probable suspect
2) opti harness - doubt it, pretty new and it worked well on the opti test, it has no resistance in it, and NO CORROSION.
3)wiring to LTCC- could only be wrong on the ICM wiring.
4) LTCC box
5) PCM, and i have 2 of them, tried both, same problem
6) coils - doubt that all 8 are bad enough not to even spark
7) spark plug wires- barely used!!! look BRAND NEW (taylor 8mm)
8) sparkplugs- yeah right, brand new gapped at .045 tr55s
9) fuses- cheack ALL OF THEM and all are good
__________________
1996 Formula M6
Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, 1.6 RR's, Moroso CAI, MAC Mids, ORY-pipe, Cut-out, LT4 KM, Air Foil, EGR!, AIR!, 3.73's, PCMFORLESS, Pro-kit springs, PHR adjustable, Grandsports- 9.5X17 front & 11X17 back, and Nitto 315s on back, Electric Cut-out, Shift Light, 160 thermo, 1LE elbow, B&M Ripper, and TA girdle. soon: LTCC and LCA's with Relocation brackets

 

Did you verify correct pinouts on your harness?

 

I would imagine that would be running down the list checkig to see if all the pins from the ltcc box are correct?

i checked the a and b pin on the ltcc box (pins that check the opti) and i get a 4-5v reading. i would think that means there is signal form the opti on the hi and low res.

 

No,
Using the schematic that came with your instructions, verify proper color wire
to corresponding pin #. IE white wire pin 12(just a example)
Kevin

 

Had a car recently with the LTCC set up, car would not start, the LTCC set up was put on the car b/c Opti's kept blowing up. Well, box was sent back and checked out OK. all wiring was good. turned out the opti was busted again, something is wrong on the cam side of the opti creating issues.

With that being said, check the opti again to see if it is working at all....I wanted to removed LTCC and start car without but the rotor had been removed so that was not an option.

 

We did an opti test again and it showed the opti to be bad. i also got an email from Bob who stated that if there is no green light while cranking, the optical sensor isnt sending signal.. So i wil be putting in a new opti.

Thanks for all the help guys! I did open one of my old optis and found that i had oil in it... so i must have a leak... looks like while i am woiting for te opti i will be fixing oil leaks as well.

 

opti's suck, well, they do when then dont work right, otherwise they are fine....

 

So what could be wrong on the cam side other the opti not being installed right? I am also having problems with opti's and I have changed out the opti 3 times the drive pin is not to long, what else could be causing issues? Sorry for the thread jack...I am also thinking about changing to the LCTT.

 

I have heard somehtign about cam bolts backing out and creating vibration that ruins the opti... i just recall reading something on that but i dont know ne thing about it. I have the hot cam, i think when i take the opti off i am gogin tot check the length of the dowel pin too and check to see if myc am bolts are good. The problem with min eis that i am blowing optis due to an oil leak.... you might want to check your car and see if there is oil all over the front, it is very comon for the waterpump drive seal to be all messed up.... which is where i think mine is leaking.

braden

 

I have checked 10 or so Opti setups and found many to have bolts that the heads stuck out to far and loaded the opti bearing. this causes the bearing to blow up or burn out fairly fast

 

how can i check that and how do i know how far the bolts should be out?