LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Ram Powergrip users inside please

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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 07:17 PM
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Default Ram Powergrip users inside please

I just finished installing a powergrip(not hd) in my 95 hawk. It seems to be notchy shifting into gear. Is this normal, maybe the disc is a little fat and needs to break in? Also I am getting a pulsing in the clutch pedal when it is all the way out. No vibration when it is in or throughout the shift, just when it is all the way out. Any ideas? Thanks

Ryan
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 10:37 PM
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Mine does that and has since i installed it like 10k ago. I don't pay it any attention it holds fine on slicks at the track.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 07:07 AM
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Yeah this is a daily driver though, so it is not cool at all. Which does yours do the pulsing pedal or the notchy feeling?
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 08:13 AM
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I had a powergrip befor i got my HD. It broke on me after about 60 miles and a dump at the track. It was a preoblem with the throw out bearing Ram sent with it. I replaced it with the bearing off the stocker i pulled out and it worked like a charm. I upgraded to the HD due to the spray and the 9".
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 08:29 AM
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That is why I just replaced my clutch was due to a bad RAM throwout bearing. But after only 60 miles and a dump at the track that yours wasn't really broke in that well either.

I like the way the pedal feels and it engages fine, nice and low. But feels like it is dragging a little. The pulsating pedal has me at a loss, maybe I need to bleed the clutch.

Ryan
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 25thhawk
Yeah this is a daily driver though, so it is not cool at all. Which does yours do the pulsing pedal or the notchy feeling?
My car is a dd also. I get both. I have the hd clutch though. My throw out bearing made noise at first. I called them and they sent me a new one next day for free. I love the clutch it holds up to tons of abuse.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 25thhawk
That is why I just replaced my clutch was due to a bad RAM throwout bearing. But after only 60 miles and a dump at the track that yours wasn't really broke in that well either.


Ryan
What do you "break in" on a clutch? I've got a Brass pucked steal disk and a pressure plate that holds 750ft. lbs. of Tq. If it doesnt hold the first time......it's not going to hold after 500 driving miles on it.

Last edited by DroppedM6Z; Jan 15, 2007 at 04:53 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 05:47 PM
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You said you had a powergrip before the hd. The powergrip doesn't have a pucked face and should be broken in like a regular clutch. The hd I believe is pucks on both sides, and probably doesn't require a break in. Although I would probably do it anyway.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 25thhawk
You said you had a powergrip before the hd. The powergrip doesn't have a pucked face and should be broken in like a regular clutch. The hd I believe is pucks on both sides, and probably doesn't require a break in. Although I would probably do it anyway.

so whats the correct method of "breaking in a clutch"?
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 06:26 PM
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I think each clutch manufacturer recommends different things. I have heard between 500 and 1000 miles of easy driving, in town miles, not highway. Nothing above 3-4k and no more than half throttle. Racing clutches for the most part don't require a break in at all.

I am not sure what the recommendation on the powergrip is. In my 98 SS, I have a bronze disc, and that one said no need for a break in.

Ryan
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 07:30 PM
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Damn, I made it maybe 5 miles before I got on my new Hays clutch. Hope I didn't screw it up.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 07:35 PM
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I don't know, maybe the clutch companies just tell us to break them in that way so they can void our warranty for not breaking it in right.

FWIW, I had a ram replacement on my h/c motor and broke it in right and the first time I ran it hard, it slipped. So maybe it is all just a trick.

Ryan
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 07:48 PM
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I Have a spec clutch and have that vibration in the pedal.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 07:58 PM
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Yeah I called Ram today and they told me it was probably a hydraulic bleeding issue. Like I didn't know they would say that. Rather than try bleeding it and not be sure if it was good or not. I ordered a new slave/master today from GM. I let you guys know if it is any better once I get it.

Ryan
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:22 PM
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I dont think i've ever "broke in" a clutch. I've never had a disk fail nor the plate not function correctly. I've always installed and just drove it like i would any other day. The only reason why my powergrip broke was a JUNK throw out bearing. Good luck
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 12:44 AM
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I've done piles of clutches on stick cars over the years and never did a break in procedure.

Maybe check and see if the clutch fork is aligned on the throwout bearing in the right spot. That pivot/clip spring thing is kinda funky.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 05:00 AM
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my spec stage 2 has the same feeling, and rather notchy on engaging....but it will fly, it hits nice and hard, and that's all that matters to me.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 06:33 AM
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I broke in my clutch by doing a burnout from 1st-3rd.....lasted over a year until I took it out and sold it to go with a different setup. Disc was fine too.
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Old Jan 20, 2007 | 08:03 AM
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well maybe I am wrong about the break in miles for a clutch. Seems like everybody else just hammers on theirs. I got my new hydraulics today so ill let you know if it fixes the notchiness of vibrating pedal. Or if RAM is full of it.

Ryan
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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Put the new hydraulics in yesterday. It made both the notchiness and the vibarating clutch pedal noticably better. But it is still there but only a little. I am now hoping that when it gets some miles on it, it will go away. Thanks for all the input on it.

Ryan
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