water pump shaft seal
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Teching In
Joined: Feb 2007
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water pump shaft seal I have a 92 vette with an lt-1 the opti failed caused by an oil leak from the seal at the water pump drive shaft in the timing cover. GM has superceded the seal with a new style that has a very stiff lip plus its angled the wrong way installing this seal is difficult anybody changed it? anybody have a aftermarket seal number that might work better? I heard there is a tool that cone shaped to install this seal but none of the local chevy dealers have this tool or have heard of it.any help would be good other than swapping the old for the new style hell I already bought the opti and pump for a 92
If you can return the WP just buy an Electric 1 with the plug and play harness that way it comes with the freeze plug to go inpla ce of the WP drive shaft and it is about the same price as the stock wp and it will add hp.
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Teching In
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that is one of my options: remove the front cover remove the pump drive shaft plug the front cover next question I cant fine an electric pump for a 92? 93 and up is all I have found. Do 93 and up water pumps bolt to the engine the same? If they did I could use my old 92 pump casting. of course only if the bolt pattern was the same for the pump section from 92 and 93 or just buy a 93 casting from a rebuilder if they bolt to the engine the same.
I am not sure I know the meizer WP bolts to the stock WP shell. so I would assume the if the front cover on tthe stock wp is the same as the 93 and up it should work. but i cant be certain or how you would have to wire it probably have to do some custome wiring.
A friend of mine just invented a tool for installing that seal. It is made from billet aluminum and works perfect. He has five made right now and the first batch made will have 100+ made. I will have a link to it on my website soon.
I found that I could easily slide the new seal over a 1/2 6pt. 3/8" drive deep Craftsman socket which was BARELY bigger than the sealed too part of the WP drive and had a nice rounded end too it as to not damage the seal.
Slide the socket into the seal from the outer side of the seal this pushes the inner seal the way it naturally wants too go then I slide the socket/seal over the spline drive and slide the seal onto the drive and used a larger socket to drive it into the cover.
I would expect some variance in Craftsman tools so the same size socket may not work for you but it is worth a try. A thin wall 13mm might be worth trying as well.
If someone offers a little sleeve at a reasonable price that would be great, with Tony's friend looking to run quantity like that hopefully he is able to keep it cheap
Slide the socket into the seal from the outer side of the seal this pushes the inner seal the way it naturally wants too go then I slide the socket/seal over the spline drive and slide the seal onto the drive and used a larger socket to drive it into the cover.
I would expect some variance in Craftsman tools so the same size socket may not work for you but it is worth a try. A thin wall 13mm might be worth trying as well.
If someone offers a little sleeve at a reasonable price that would be great, with Tony's friend looking to run quantity like that hopefully he is able to keep it cheap
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i justi cut a peace of a plastic coke bottle and roled it up to a cone and it went on with no problems,remember to put oil on the seal and the drive seal shaft for easyer slide on it
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In a corvette forum I was sent spec on how to make the tool using a highlighter it works perfect. But... there is always a but. Upon closer inspection of the shaft I believe there is to much play. I had a big oil leak. I took the seal back out and the shaft will move as far as the bore will allow. I know its gear driven but is there a bearing also involved? Better safe than sorry so off comes the front cover. Not much room for a puller on the hub. Do I have to drop oil pan completly?Perhaps back to the option of eliminating the gear driven pump and using an electric pump. Are 93 and 92 pumps interchancable?
Originally Posted by buffman
^^ NOPE. Those are teflon(sp) seals. YOU ARE NOT supposed to put oil on them.... same with opti seal. Crank seal is the only one you put oil on..
If you guys bothered to read the little piece of paper that comes in the Felpro Timing cover kit you would know Matt was right.
If oil gets past that seal to wet the mating surface, well it aint sealing very well is it?
The teflon seals lay down a layer of teflon on the sealed too surface upon initial startup and that is the lubrication.
If oil gets past that seal to wet the mating surface, well it aint sealing very well is it?
The teflon seals lay down a layer of teflon on the sealed too surface upon initial startup and that is the lubrication.
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
If you guys bothered to read the little piece of paper that comes in the Felpro Timing cover kit you would know Matt was right.
If oil gets past that seal to wet the mating surface, well it aint sealing very well is it?
The teflon seals lay down a layer of teflon on the sealed too surface upon initial startup and that is the lubrication.
If oil gets past that seal to wet the mating surface, well it aint sealing very well is it?
The teflon seals lay down a layer of teflon on the sealed too surface upon initial startup and that is the lubrication.
